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Thread: Ruger Ranch 300BLK

  1. #46
    Member specweapon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300_BLK View Post
    300 BLK was not designed as a sporting round
    Which projectiles are you using? I'm playing with the cast 230gr off trademe but feel they need the tip hollowed, but haven't killed with them yet, still playing at the range to get enough ballistic knowledge to feel comfortable

  2. #47
    Member Timmay's Avatar
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    @300_BLK those Barnes 110gr ttsx's look the biz for deer up to 150m?

  3. #48
    Member 300_BLK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by specweapon View Post
    Which projectiles are you using? I'm playing with the cast 230gr off trademe but feel they need the tip hollowed, but haven't killed with them yet, still playing at the range to get enough ballistic knowledge to feel comfortable
    Same guy was making 200 gr flat noses and I made a jig to drill em out to about 180 grain.

    Rule of thumb for subsonic load dev is work your way down teh charge weight slowly. If you are running a rattle gun BLK then get an adjustable gas block or H3 buffer and make sure it will lock back on empty.

    Quote Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
    @300_BLK those Barnes 110gr ttsx's look the biz for deer up to 150m?
    Yeah your on to it there @Timmay. They are very good pills, but as i'm a bit of a scrouge i like the 125 SST hornady developed for the Blackout.

    I think the a Ruger American in 300 BLK migh replace the AR upper. Quieter and I find that a lot of my shooting with the 300 is with the kids / wife or for deer.

    I hate chasing brass after culling goats...

  4. #49
    Member Timmay's Avatar
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    Barnes tsx/ttsx sure are spendy. The 110 a or v max from hornady has a scary ballistics jell image in their page, like 1-2" in then it fair blows up.

  5. #50
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    125 ballistic tip have excellent penetration and expansion with the 300 black.
    Carpe Diem likes this.

  6. #51
    Member Carpe Diem's Avatar
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    I'll attest to that...

  7. #52
    Member Carpe Diem's Avatar
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    Have also used the Barnes ttsx-Tx 110s in the Ruger ranch definitely the ducks nuts for further out with the 110.

    The nosler 125 tho's cheaper and has been easier to get so.... both have been awesome....

  8. #53
    Member 300_BLK's Avatar
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    My go to was the Hornady 110 Vmax for supers - performs well to 450m and acts more like a conventional hunting pill at Blackout velocities.

    If you want cheap 'Hammer of Thor" performance look at the 130 Speer HP.

  9. #54
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    Just wondering if anyone has a good recipe for lehigh 194ME or 168CF in this rifle? I'm hoping for a good starting point so I can get something to work before I reach the end of the box, which usually happens to me Haven't got any better than about 1.6MOA so far with 125gr SST and 220gr SMK in my RAR.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300_BLK View Post
    Yeah your on to it there @Timmay. They are very good pills, but as i'm a bit of a scrouge i like the 125 SST hornady developed for the Blackout.

    I think the a Ruger American in 300 BLK migh replace the AR upper. Quieter and I find that a lot of my shooting with the 300 is with the kids / wife or for deer.

    I hate chasing brass after culling goats...
    why not just get an easily adjustable gas block and lock it off? Seems like a cheaper alternative?

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by kilometres View Post
    Just wondering if anyone has a good recipe for lehigh 194ME or 168CF in this rifle? I'm hoping for a good starting point so I can get something to work before I reach the end of the box, which usually happens to me Haven't got any better than about 1.6MOA so far with 125gr SST and 220gr SMK in my RAR.
    I have shot dozens of deer with the 194gr ME ( 9.3gr of adi 2205 @ 1023fps ) sub MOA in a rebarreled 12" 1:7 tikka T3. Also using nosler BT 125gr ( 17.2gr adi 2205 @ 2005 fps) with good kills out to 300m.

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by tikka View Post
    I have shot dozens of deer with the 194gr ME ( 9.3gr of adi 2205 @ 1023fps ) sub MOA in a rebarreled 12" 1:7 tikka T3. Also using nosler BT 125gr ( 17.2gr adi 2205 @ 2005 fps) with good kills out to 300m.

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.
    Thanks Tikka,

    Results so far, COAL = 2.240
    9.0gr H110, 3 shots, 1MOA
    1088, 1047, 1058 fps

    9.5gr 2205, 3 shots, 1MOA
    1089, 1075, 1091 fps

    So far this is the about the most accurate bullet I've tried. A little fast, I always get vertical stringing if I try and reduce the velocity on the 220 SMK's even if I seat the bullet back, tried a compressed load too. I might try a different suppressor, mine's weighs about 450grams. Did you have any work done to your rifle other than the new barrel?

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by kilometres View Post
    Thanks Tikka,

    Results so far, COAL = 2.240
    9.0gr H110, 3 shots, 1MOA
    1088, 1047, 1058 fps

    9.5gr 2205, 3 shots, 1MOA
    1089, 1075, 1091 fps

    So far this is the about the most accurate bullet I've tried. A little fast, I always get vertical stringing if I try and reduce the velocity on the 220 SMK's even if I seat the bullet back, tried a compressed load too. I might try a different suppressor, mine's weighs about 450grams. Did you have any work done to your rifle other than the new barrel?
    Thats definitely better, the other thing I can suggest is weight you brass into 2 or 3 weight batchs that made a difference for me.

    Also I run every batch through a chrony and have each batch separate and use one batch at a time then go onto the next, I've got 13 or 14 different reload batchs of 194gr Lehigh ME, 208gr Amax subs and 125gr BT supersonics. It keeps the ES down for each batch and better MOA. It only takes a couple of clicks to re-zero between batchs. Maybe a lot of work but need best accuracy for hunting with 300 Blackout at distance.

    Work done on rifle was trigger lightened by me, and halfcock bolt, new barrel with it threaded for a ODL suppressor by the gunsmith.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by tikka View Post
    Thats definitely better, the other thing I can suggest is weight you brass into 2 or 3 weight batchs that made a difference for me.

    Also I run every batch through a chrony and have each batch separate and use one batch at a time then go onto the next, I've got 13 or 14 different reload batchs of 194gr Lehigh ME, 208gr Amax subs and 125gr BT supersonics. It keeps the ES down for each batch and better MOA. It only takes a couple of clicks to re-zero between batchs. Maybe a lot of work but need best accuracy for hunting with 300 Blackout at distance.

    Work done on rifle was trigger lightened by me, and halfcock bolt, new barrel with it threaded for a ODL suppressor by the gunsmith.
    Thanks Tikka,
    I've been weighing brass too, found a big variation with Hornady brass. For your long range work, did you find your drop matched your calculated solution? Mine's about 1.5Mil lower @300M. I might need to do the tall target test.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by kilometres View Post
    Thanks Tikka,
    I've been weighing brass too, found a big variation with Hornady brass. For your long range work, did you find your drop matched your calculated solution? Mine's about 1.5Mil lower @300M. I might need to do the tall target test.
    Did a tall target test and had an error of about 1.5%, accounting for that, G1 BC of 0.27 matches my drop at 300m. about the same as flat nose 30/30 of the same weight. https://www.sierrabullets.com/store/...0-30-170-gr-FN a bit less than advertised 0.630. holes a little bit oval shape out of 1/7in twist. Group was 1.8MOA (3 shots)

 

 

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