Thread: Sako stock oil

Year she’s a good one. The NZ walnut has quite the grey grain running through it.
American is light grained. English mid, Turkish dark.
If you want the redness to come out you need to add this on the very first coat!
Have a good old recipe that gunmakers use in the UK. Given to me by a guy that trained at Purdy and Holland & Holland.
Now we in business for himself. Helped put together the above rifle.

Originally Posted by Sideshow

@Tussock have you totally stripped out the old finish?
What type of colour are you looking for in the new finish? Dark, dark red our light?
Here’s dark red seven coatsAttachment 109538

I would like this recipe. I will go the full nine yards on the new one I get. Seems from the very poor photograph it is very dark timber. Mine is quite light.

Ohooo how dear you sir pooor photo what!!!

Right strip off the old oil varnish what ever is on it. Leave the checkering alone! Maybe by a checkering tool to run over the old checkering to sharpen it up. But you will need to know what type it is how many checkers per inch.
Wash the stripper off! No not that stripper
Then fine sand bring out any dents with a hot knife and a wet rag. Place wet rag on top of dent then hot knife onto the rag, this will lift dents right out. Next keep sanding add a little water to lift the grain and fine wood then sand again. Keep this up till it’s smooth.
This will keep you busy till I have the recipe.
cheers @Tussock

To bring out the grain on an already oil finished stock, I've found sun-thickened linseed oil (or 'stand' oil) works wonders.

It involves leaving refined (artist grade) linseed oil 'standing' in a metal tray in direct sunlight until it thickens. The longer you leave it, the thicker it gets (several weeks). It's been used by oil painters for centuries as it dries very quickly and resists yellowing with age.

As the oil thickens, it oxidizes and turns into something resembling a thick glue. Unlike linseed oil in its liquid form, the sun thickened stuff dries super fast and gives the wood a more lustrous shine with minimal residue.

One trick I use when sanding to a fine finish is to use heavily thinned artists linseed with 600grit wet n dry carborundum paper. This raises then removes grain abd oils at the same time. If you want extra colour then mix in some stain in the eary stages. Add a very small amount of terrabine to the finishing coats of oil. This aids drying and hardening. Lots of hand rubbing over weeks while lounging by the fire in the evenings on the final hard coat just keeps adding depth and lustre .

I found a way to keep my existing Sako, and robbed the scope off it for my new rifle. So the Sakos stock is the winter project while I save to re-barrel it.

@Tussock. Start with paint strupper and a nail brush, then go to wet n dry wth turps n linseed.

Originally Posted by ChrisW

We sell Schaftol stock oil for the sako & Beretta wood stocks

Using this also, goes a long way, nice product.

Shit forgot I’ll get you the recipe

Originally Posted by gundoc

The best thing is Artists Oil (a refined linseed) which is available at any art store, Warehouse, Warehouse Stationery, etc. Inexpensive and quick drying, easily buffed up to a nice sheen. I have been using it for many years.

Hi Gundoc, when you say ‘buff’ is this after it has dried?

@Tussock that recipe for the gunstock oil....finally!
Buy some Alkanet root. Also some grain filler the best my gun maker recommended is rotten stone powder very fine.
1) Chop the Alkanet root up finely.
2) Put the chopped root into a glass jar (with a lid that seals well).
3) Add sufficient boiled linseed and GENUINE (not substitute) turpentine mixed in a ratio of 5:1 by volume to cover the chopped root and seal the jar.
4) Place in a warm and dark place for a couple of weeks, shaking every couple of days and opening the jar (to ensure the lid doesn't glue itself on) once a week.
5) After a couple of weeks, strain through a old pair of tights to remove bits. Remove wife from tights beforehand
6) Dilute using just boiled linseed until you have the shade you need. Test this on a similar coloured wood sample.
7) Store in the dark.

The primary colour change occurs with the first and second coat - subsequent coats deepen the colour slightly but can be dispensed with depending on personal choice - and so you don't need much at all. Although I never measure it and always make more than I need, 25ml would probably be plenty (obviously depending on stock porosity/grain filler) - however, it doesn't keep for more than a few weeks.

You need to restrict the air because the boiled linseed and turpentine will lose volatile components, making the resultant mixture more viscous and affecting the colour takeup on the stock - particularly if the walnut is less porous. The sunlight seems to accelerate the inevitable colour change from red/purple to red/brown, and the resultant colour on the stock seems to lose something.

Hope this helps. Warm it a little before sticking it on!

Just redid my SO4 as the stock was getting a little marked up. I’ll post some photos later

Originally Posted by Sideshow

@Tussock that recipe for the gunstock oil....finally!
Buy some Alkanet root. Also some grain filler the best my gun maker recommended is rotten stone powder very fine.
1) Chop the Alkanet root up finely.
2) Put the chopped root into a glass jar (with a lid that seals well).
3) Add sufficient boiled linseed and GENUINE (not substitute) turpentine mixed in a ratio of 5:1 by volume to cover the chopped root and seal the jar.
4) Place in a warm and dark place for a couple of weeks, shaking every couple of days and opening the jar (to ensure the lid doesn't glue itself on) once a week.
5) After a couple of weeks, strain through a old pair of tights to remove bits. Remove wife from tights beforehand
6) Dilute using just boiled linseed until you have the shade you need. Test this on a similar coloured wood sample.
7) Store in the dark.

The primary colour change occurs with the first and second coat - subsequent coats deepen the colour slightly but can be dispensed with depending on personal choice - and so you don't need much at all. Although I never measure it and always make more than I need, 25ml would probably be plenty (obviously depending on stock porosity/grain filler) - however, it doesn't keep for more than a few weeks.

You need to restrict the air because the boiled linseed and turpentine will lose volatile components, making the resultant mixture more viscous and affecting the colour takeup on the stock - particularly if the walnut is less porous. The sunlight seems to accelerate the inevitable colour change from red/purple to red/brown, and the resultant colour on the stock seems to lose something.

Hope this helps. Warm it a little before sticking it on!

Just redid my SO4 as the stock was getting a little marked up. I’ll post some photos later

You're like a real-life witch @Sideshow

I was totally expecting "and now - throw in your flat-mates nail clippings, a single strand of nose hair from your mother-in-law, and a whole toad".

Best wood stock filler is big foots pubic hair...but you will have to ask Gibo nicely

This might be of interest. It’s how they finish best rifle and shotgun stocks the traditional way. Pretty involved, but looks beautiful in the end. Recipes in there too.

https://www.sportingshooter.co.uk/fe...tock-1-5319016

Have heard if you put armourall on first them tru oil it makes it go off reall quick and you can do several coats in a day,some sort of chemical reaction.