Thread: Tikka test

When you buy a tikka first thing you do is take it to the range and test group it. Do not get barrel threaded or touch in anyway before doing. 3 shot group for lights and 5 shot group for heavier contour. If not under an inch, take it back for another one, pretty sure this falls under this.
Even with rifles without guarantee I'd do this and take back if not happy with performance if a decent brand.

Take it back and insist on a straight swap. Like I said on another thread, the first rifle after changing tooling at the factory is a cracker, the last one before changing tooling is potentially crap. No need to put up with it, you can't shoot a sub 1" group if it wont even fire.

@ChrisW

Am surprised how many blokes have told you to fiddle with it. Very bad idea.

DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART.

Phone Beretta NZ. Explain symptoms. Then follow their instructions to the letter.

Did I say DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART already?

Originally Posted by Flyblown

@ChrisW

Am surprised how many blokes have told you to fiddle with it. Very bad idea.

DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART.

Phone Beretta NZ. Explain symptoms. Then follow their instructions to the letter.

Did I say DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART already?

What he said. Don't fiddle with things under warranty. Bad enough as it is with warranty issues. Just hand it back as soon as possible and stick to your guns (interesting saying that one) and let them sort it.

The imprint on the primer was half what it should be. No modifications apart from 20MOA rail. I only had one box of hornady SST to work with but five different rounds failed to fire. I took it back. They’ll have a local gunsmith look first and then go to Beretta if gunsmith can’t get to the bottom of things. Thanks for all the input guys.

Make sure the retailer checks with BerettaNZ before they get a gunsmith to work on anything.

Originally Posted by YosemiteSam

The imprint on the primer was half what it should be. No modifications apart from 20MOA rail. I only had one box of hornady SST to work with but five different rounds failed to fire. I took it back. They’ll have a local gunsmith look first and then go to Beretta if gunsmith can’t get to the bottom of things. Thanks for all the input guys.

My bet is the ammo is a little short and/or the chamber is a little long.

When you pull the trigger the cartridge moves forward with nothing but the extractor to stop it when the firing pin hits the primer.

Paint it black and put a gas tube on it, then sell it to the govt.

I'd just take it back and ask for a replacement. I wouldn't be keen on getting them to work on it; rather just get a straight replacement as the thing wasn't fully functional from the get go.

I would be asking it goes back to beretta not the local guy to have a tinker with then have a problem latter on on beretta saying bye bye.
Also i would be asking for a replacement gun. It would always be in the back of my mind.
Its not going to cost the shop to give you another gun and send this away for beretta to deal with.

Does the bolt fully close and is "loose" on an empty chamber?

I am picking a rail screw is too long and not letting the bolt close fully?

Originally Posted by 25 /08 IMP

I think you have to give them the right to repair first.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

You do I had to with a ruger 77/22 It didn't work idk if they actually did anything to be fair as even they could not get it to eject cases when i brought it back.

Originally Posted by sdogg73

Remove the bolt and magazine,get a torch and check how much of the front mount screw is protruding into the locking lug area of the receiver. Common cause of light firing pin strike.

Legend. This was 100% correct. The 20MOA rail from GC has grub screws all the same length even though the rail is slimmer at the barrel end. So the grub screw there projects into the action a little more. Enough to impede the firing pin somehow.

Does it fire now with the rail screwxremoved ?

If that fixes the problem then who ever mounted the rail needs to:
Apologise to Beretta / tikka for bringing their product into public disrepute
Refund labour charge for fitting
Replace a couple of boxes of ammo for you
Not work on your gun again ��

I've got a rifle with marginal firing pin strike and it has 10% fail to fire with hornady factory sst and eld-m and handloads with cci mag primers but is fine with federal primers that must be softer. The cartridges that failed to fired were towards the shorter end of the range of cartridge headspace length although within saami spec.

For gunsmiths here, how would a screw impinging on the bolt result in a light firing pin strike ?

I had the exact same issue with the same rail last year
The bolt doesn't close 100% of the way, the screw hits on the locking lugs