Thread: Tikka test

Originally Posted by Bagheera

Does it fire now with the rail screwxremoved ?

If that fixes the problem then who ever mounted the rail needs to:
Apologise to Beretta / tikka for bringing their product into public disrepute
Refund labour charge for fitting
Replace a couple of boxes of ammo for you
Not work on your gun again ��

I've got a rifle with marginal firing pin strike and it has 10% fail to fire with hornady factory sst and eld-m and handloads with cci mag primers but is fine with federal primers that must be softer. The cartridges that failed to fired were towards the shorter end of the range of cartridge headspace length although within saami spec.

For gunsmiths here, how would a screw impinging on the bolt result in a light firing pin strike ?

I'm not a gun smith, but have a bit of experience with Tikkas. The front mount screw protruding stops the bolt closing fully. This is my theory: being a push feed system, the cartridge is chambered with without full contact with the chamber as one locking lug can bind up on the mount screw. When the firing pin is released it merely shunts the cartridge forward more without setting the primer off. In some rifles the primer will work as the interference with the bolt isn't as severe.

I had the exact same issue with the same rail last year
The bolt doesn't close 100% of the way, the screw hits on the locking lugs

The gun city ones don't stick through a huge amount but just enough to be a problem, my bolt was around 1or 2mm off from closing all the way, it's a lot more obvious on anything with a 90degree throw

Failing to close the bolt completely is said to be a common cause of misfires.
Part of the firing spring's energy is used to close the bolt , making the strike weak.
So a mechanical problem could lead to what appears to be user error.

Seen this on a few rifles and rail/base combos .
Sometimes its just the shape of the screws tip with having a little angle on it .Flatten it out and it works fine.

Has this happen to a few tikkas of mates, general problem was that from the factory the inside of the bolts are not generally lubed, and when the gun lands here it might sit in storage for months/years and then the Bolt either gets rusty or gunked up from other "stuff" and then the firing pin does not move freely and causes misfires or light strikes, usually remedied by stripping the bold and cleaning it and lubing it. I always strip the bolt on a new gun and clean it anyways.

My tikka t3x that i bought about a month ago was certainly testfired, barrel had had little bit of residue on the inside, bit no real markings on the bolt, in saying that also even now after 40 odd rounds i still have no marks on the boltface.

https://youtu.be/-1v1nGMTNBo
Have a look of this , it may help.
my old tikka have misfire with cci primer, swap primers problem solved.

Is this normal practice to drill right through to the bolt head when fixing mounts?
Our am I the only one that thinks this will just weaken the action?
Just seems a little crazy that they make an action that is that thin that you can’t get a decent mount to fix without the above drama.
Just asking...