Thread: what modifications

Pretty much what Ryan said
A light/crisp trigger that suits you is a must. Tikka's have the adjustment to do that, so thats easy.
Then good rings and good glass. This allows you to pin-point an aiming point on an animal with the correct power setting and parallax adjustment, rather than just aiming for the "shoulder"
Take the time to sight your rifle in properly (at various distances) and then you'll have the confidence to take the shot knowing that you'll hit where you're aiming.
You can piss around with glass bedding; sometimes it helps with tighter groups, sometimes it doesn't make any difference

Originally Posted by Larskramer

for reference, Im wanting to setup my tikka t3x 300WM, average 500M max shots and would like to give it the best possible base to do so without going to overboard on budget.

I already have a DPT long range chassis, EGW 20 moa rail, tier one rings. Have ordered a titanium recoil lug and a lighter trigger spring.

And before I send it to the gunsmith, Id like to make sure i get what else I need before sending it in.

A titanium recoil lug on the Tikka T3x won't give you any accuracy improvement over the steel lug - it's just for weight saving. The stainless recoil lug might've been a better choice although that depends on the quality of stainless steel used. All three are a big improvement over the original alloy T3 lug.

You might have to experiment to find the correct torque for the action screws - usually 35 inch lbs front and 30 inch lbs rear is a good starting point.

T3 triggers are superb as they come and you can easily adjust the weight to suit yourself. They would be one of the best production triggers available and are almost identical to the standard Sako trigger.

It would be very unusual to have a Tikka that didn't have an excellent barrel and be trued correctly with the action with the bolt lugs squared, making full contact.

Precision handloads that are tuned to the rifle are probably going to make the biggest difference for you. Make sure your scope is free of parallax at the distance you're shooting.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

A titanium recoil lug on the Tikka T3x won't give you any accuracy improvement over the steel lug - it's just for weight saving. The stainless recoil lug might've been a better choice although that depends on the quality of stainless steel used. All three are a big improvement over the original alloy T3 lug.

You might have to experiment to find the correct torque for the action screws - usually 35 inch lbs front and 30 inch lbs rear is a good starting point.

T3 triggers are superb as they come and you can easily adjust the weight to suit yourself. They would be one of the best production triggers available and are almost identical to the standard Sako trigger.

It would be very unusual to have a Tikka that didn't have an excellent barrel and be trued correctly with the action with the bolt lugs squared, making full contact.

Precision handloads that are tuned to the rifle are probably going to make the biggest difference for you. Make sure your scope is free of parallax at the distance you're shooting.

Thats a great post. thanks mate.

At some point id like to upgrade the scope to a nightforce. but thatyll be in the future.

apparently you can get the trigger down a little bit, but not too much as the action screw gets in the way hence why buying a new smalller tensioned spring.

You've got most of it covered Lars. I reacon your biggest frustration would be to get an area to shoot around Wellington. Trentham Range would be a good place to get regular practice.

Getting your rig sorted is fairly easy(most off the shelf guns today are accurate beyond most normal shooters capabilities). Shooting out to a max of 500m, I reacon that experience(trigger time) is more important than a top off the range piece of equipment.

Originally Posted by Jaco Goosen

You've got most of it covered Lars. I reacon your biggest frustration would be to get an area to shoot around Wellington. Trentham Range would be a good place to get regular practice.

Getting your rig sorted is fairly easy(most off the shelf guns today are accurate beyond most normal shooters capabilities). Shooting out to a max of 500m, I reacon that experience(trigger time) is more important than a top off the range piece of equipment.

thanks mate, yeah im going to join kaitoke range. Doesnt seem to be very busy whenever i go there. Im from paraparaume beach also, would be nice to know someone in the hills behind us with some land

Originally Posted by Larskramer

apparently you can get the trigger down a little bit, but not too much as the action screw gets in the way hence why buying a new smalller tensioned spring.

Yep, that will help. I've got one in my T3x. You can also shorten the trigger weight screw a little enabling it to unwind further before hitting the trigger retaining screw (not really recommended though). You can run into the situation where the sear is sitting on a knife edge and sometimes won't catch the firing pin.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

Yep, that will help. I've got one in my T3x. You can also shorten the trigger weight screw a little enabling it to unwind further before hitting the trigger retaining screw (not really recommended though). You can run into the situation where the sear is sitting on a knife edge and sometimes won't catch the firing pin.

factory the tikka spring is wayyyy heaver than my browning xbolts

Originally Posted by Larskramer

factory the tikka spring is wayyyy heaver than my browning xbolts

You should be able to get it down to around 1.5 lbs without changing the spring.

its all good, 15 bux delivered for the spring , and i got 2 coming for my brownings also.

Practice

Muzzle break will reduce recoil, recoil made my 8mm06 hard to shoot accurately not because I couldn’t hold it but because the rest I was using (sand bag) needed resetting every shot. With careful reset it drilled single hole five shot group, without it was 1 minute. That made load development difficult.

Originally Posted by 2post

Muzzle break will reduce recoil, recoil made my 8mm06 hard to shoot accurately not because I couldn’t hold it but because the rest I was using (sand bag) needed resetting every shot. With careful reset it drilled single hole five shot group, without it was 1 minute. That made load development difficult.

thanks 2x post. a friend has a gun vice for sighting in, the rifle also has a maniatis carbon suppressor on it

The main question is 'What are you wanting to shoot?' Different things have different requirements, ie; deer in the bush versus rabbits at 300 metres. That difference equates to 2.5 MOA against 0.5 MOA. If a rifle won't achieve the first then it could be a real problem tuning it to meet the second. The type of rifle, the barrel, the cartridge, the trigger, the sighting system, and the shooter all play a part. Give us some details so we can give you some correct answers.

Following with intrest for build im getting done