Thread: Zero stop

Hahahaha.... I haven't ...... bahahahahahaaaa

wheres the tui billboard when you need it

Mate to be honest I don't need to blame zero stop when I miss .... no need to dial at 200 with a 22-250 ... I'm just a crap shot.

its more for when you been shooting 600+ the trip before then cant hit the target at 100 the next

Originally Posted by longrange308

its more for when you been shooting 600+ the trip before then cant hit the target at 100 the next

You'd need a few turns for a long range 308
Personally think it's a little over rated it your scope is set up properly there shouldn't be a turn under zero, this makes shooting any range easy and saves a few $

I like the zero stop personally just eliminates the possibility of human error when you have been shooting a lot of different distance
Or maybe I'm just lazy

Am using both, I have to say I much prefer a zero stop.

Originally Posted by BRADS

You'd need a few turns for a long range 308
Personally think it's a little over rated it your scope is set up properly there shouldn't be a turn under zero, this makes shooting any range easy and saves a few $

Your right had a big rail which helps til I got showin the light and got a better cal

Been "off line" last 4 weeks or so with trip away with better half, and then farm sitting for mate last week. Guess what part was best !
Returning the turret to a fixed zero stop on the VX6 is IMO very important ( as longrange308 above states) when the turret has no horizontal vernier marks on it because the externals of the turret do not move up and down, therefore you cant tell "what turn" your on should the turret turn "accidently" while the rifle is being carried. (The vx6 has very light sometimes hard to determine clicks and can be moved easily if the rifle should rub on your pack etc.) Last trip I did was a goat cull, with various ranges from Zero (100yds) to around 525 (Ranged with Leica Binos.) therefore I was continually adjusting and returning to zero but I started to shoot very high. Cause was one of the grub screws coming loose ( not unscrewing per say but friction loose on the middle capstan) and the CDS dial adjusted "up" only adjusted"down" intermittently meaning I was gaining in elevation all the time until I was about 40cm too high at 100M ! Leupold say not to over tighten the grub screws, hence the issue. I now tighten them up really tight. I emailed Leupold re this issue and they replied but had no real opinion on it.

Zero stop all the way. Without....it will be a question of when you forget how rotations you are at & miss an animal because your a complete revolution out. I know because I've been there & had that issue. Now use a March tactical which comes with zero stop.

Hi Yogi, meant to say the "zero stop" on the VX6 only allows just less that 1 turn up ( not that thats an issue for me as it equates to over 600 M. ) In other words it stops where you set the zero to, but wont turn up past it either, where as a true zero stop allows the turret to turn "up" past the stop but not down past it....

Originally Posted by yogi

Thanks for the replies guys. I am slowly narrowing a scope choice down for the 7mm rem mag sendero. Possibly go for a mark 4 4.5-14x50 but not sure about the 50mm front lens being to big and heavy for hunting. maybe a vx3 4-4.5x40?

I've got that scope with a varminting reticle on my 223. Its an awesome piece of kit.

the zero stop is a necessity - I dial the scope for a number of different reasons - different loads have different zeros (measured off the zero stops). In addition to that it's handy to be able to dial for distance and then return the scope to your initial zero without having to remember how many clicks you came up or down ...

the vaminting reticle is awesome - I seldom have to dial because of the ladder

T

I think some of you guys are confusing the issue here. Zero stop without changing the angle of the scope in relation to the bore is just a quick way of reducing your dial range

There are 3 variables at play : internal adjustment range, scope angle and zero stop mechanism.

HillHunter, I suspect what is happening with your setup is that the scope is mounted fairly flat/parallel to the bore. That model scope has 75MOA vertical internal adjustment range, so if you were to mount it on a slanted rail, you would get back some extra turns.

Two ways of getting a "zero stop" without it being a specific feature on a scope is:

1) using Burris Signature Zee rings, with the correct size inserts to get the front of the scope down far enough so that your last turn down is in the zero range.
2) effectively the same setup by getting a custom rail made up to get the front end of your scope down to the required point (paid less than $200 for my last one)

It is always a good idea to leave a bit of dial below zero, the mechanisms of some of the less expensive scopes are a bit suspect at the outer limits of the dial range.

Just zero it and count how much elevation you have left.
If you should get lost its a simple matter of wind all the way up and back down two turns or whatever it is to zero.
If even that is too taxing just look down the bore and scope at something, most scopes have 15-20 moa per turn and that is pretty obviously out with a quick bore sight..

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Had another email from Leupold Support today . They say that they may offer target style turrets for the VX6 "in the future". No indications when in the future. I wouldn't mind betting, given the banter about the afterthought (IMO) zero stop, that they don't more simply offer an "upgrade" and call it something like VX6-MK11 !!! Have had a look at the Vortex PST FFP 4-16x50. Looks quite good for about $1200.