Thread: 2inch lift kit for Hilux

Hi - looking to get a second hand 2014 Hilux DC 4WD with a 200k plus kms so going to upgrade the suspension and lift at the same time.

2inch seems optimal balance to fit slightly larger tyres, but who has experience in NZ on brand to choose. I’ll do the springs and shocks and not just the cheap spacer method. Lots of options like Dobinson, Munroe, Bilstein, Outback Armour etc. I’ll get it installed in Auckland.

Probably go for 265/75 R16 AT tyres and pick up some Hilux steel rims.

Opinions and experience with installers and suspension performance appreciated

I went with Old Man Emu from ARB, seem to be the most popular for Toyota. It’s a good upgrade from factory, road handling is just as good and so much more comfortable off-road.
The Toyota factory rims are ok and seem to balance up well with no vibration. I had an aftermarket set of steel rims that drove me mad, bloody vibration was terrible, no matter where I took them, no one could balance them up. Ended up going to a heavy duty alloy that are rated higher than steels.

@Flyblown


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If you want to go down the ARB route, give James a txt, he works for ARB NZ and is based in Auckland, he’ll point you to a trusted supplier and installer round Auckland +64 27 293 9182
He used to manage two 4x4 specialist workshops, so knows his shit.

Originally Posted by McNotty

If you want to go down the ARB route, give James a txt, he works for ARB NZ and is based in Auckland, he’ll point you to a trusted supplier and installer round Auckland +64 27 293 9182
He used to manage two 4x4 specialist workshops, so knows his shit.

Thanks for that

All kits are not created equal.

Are you just looking for increased height for tires, or are you after improved articulation for offroad capability?
A lot of kits use heavier gauge springs to get the lift, but you loose up travel articulation because the compressed stack height of the heavier gauge spring spring longer than original. Same with shocks.

Lots of homework required if you are after articulation, and often you are better with a combination of lower suspension lift and a small body lift.

^^^ This.

The question you have to ask yourself @Forestry, is why are you doing the lift / tyres?

Looks
Off road performance (as in proper off road)
Something else?

I’m old school and don’t like taller, wider tyres as it screws with the vehicle’s drivetrain. They also make for a worse tyre off-road - google contact patch of narrower v. wider tyres for explanation.

I have a 2” lift from new on MY14 Hilux but mine was all about load carrying capacity and towing on rough Outback tracks, so hence the Lovells GVM upgrade. The truck has been into no mans land and beyond on that setup. On 225/75R16 LT. There’s been zero reason to change the tyre height, and only a 20mm increase in width from Aussie OEM spec.

But it’s a rough ride, unladen, on NZ roads. And it will lift a wheel when in opposite front to rear max articulation more readily that a vehicle setup for big moguls and ruts. But I tow heavy dual axle trailers of dead stock for pigs up steep Ruapehu farm tracks no bother, and go pretty much anywhere I like. The best addition you can make is diff lock(s) and onboard twin tube compressor.

Originally Posted by Flyblown

^^^ This.

The question you have to ask yourself @Forestry, is why are you doing the lift / tyres?

Looks
Off road performance (as in proper off road)
Something else?

I’m old school and don’t like taller, wider tyres as it screws with the vehicle’s drivetrain. They also make for a worse tyre off-road - google contact patch of narrower v. wider tyres for explanation.

I have a 2” lift from new on MY14 Hilux but mine was all about load carrying capacity and towing on rough Outback tracks, so hence the Lovells GVM upgrade. The truck has been into no mans land and beyond on that setup. On 225/75R16 LT. There’s been zero reason to change the tyre height, and only a 20mm increase in width from Aussie OEM spec.

But it’s a rough ride, unladen, on NZ roads. And it will lift a wheel when in opposite front to rear max articulation more readily that a vehicle setup for big moguls and ruts. But I tow heavy dual axle trailers of dead stock for pigs up steep Ruapehu farm tracks no bother, and go pretty much anywhere I like. The best addition you can make is diff lock(s) and onboard twin tube compressor.

.... and if you want the best of all worlds, fit appropriately sized (height dependent on your chosen lift) load assist air bags to the rear axle. That way you can choose your suspension for articulation and keep the suspension 'soft' for normal road use, and then air up the bags to provide an increased rear axle spring rate and stiffen your suspension for when you are towing or have extra load.

All good points and thanks for the replies

I like 4WDing but haven’t done a lot in last 10 years due to kids and work. Also love Thar hunting and have been up a lot of Canterbury rivers in my old G60 Patrol, FJ40 etc years ago. I’ve also done plenty of river work in a standard old BT50 by taking time and care but you do risk ripping things off.

I’m keen to get back into it but still need a vehicle to drive for work which is North Island.

Anyway the Ute I am looking at will need the suspension done anyway as 240k km and on original shocks etc. Hence focusing on a standard 2inch lift and not worried about the body or shifting the diff forward. I’m not going huge tyres or trying to look cool. Just want to be able to fit slightly larger ones for trips and get some clearance under the diff. Also well aware of the benefits of a rear locker and that will come later. An E-locker seems popular these day with no air worries. I also wasn’t planning to get the upgraded rear springs as carrying a big load is rare and my boat is a 12ft tinny...

It looks like a standard lift fitted for Munroe/Bilstein is about $2300 from a trade me scan so interested what paying more gets you?

Pretty sure 2" is the limit before you need a low volume cert. I do stand to be corrected on this. I'm having a 2" kit fitted this month on my 2015 Hilux using Dobinson coils with Raw shocks all round, rear springs are having new mains made and rest of leaves reset to balance out the front. All done by a spring maker mate that does them through his business, based on past experience. Not increasing rear load as I don't carry heavy loads when off road, so sticking to the 0-300kg payload.
I'm not increasing the tyre width but going up in profile from 60 to 65 for a bit more tyre wall. Mine has 18" factory alloys.

Out of all of them iron man are the only ones that don’t seam to snap the bottom off
With lots of use they all smash the strut mounts off chassis
Plus grab a hand full of front axle seals ya be changing them more than the engine oil