Thread: 70 series - what mod or what mod NOT to get

Bit of a dumb move that considering the electric options aren't rated to ford anything. Water crossing as a requirement means they won't be an option and the other Toyota engine offerings are not as interesting for towing duties. Getting back to having to go to a light truck as the better option!

Their putting the 2.8 turbo D motor and auto box from the Hilux in them.


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Originally Posted by MSL

The EHR and dpf delete, how does that affect your warranty?


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I'm not too worried if it voids the warranty. I don't expect there to ever be a problem with the truck as they are tough as. Asides I refuse to take my truck to the turkeys at the dealership to service. I take it to my trusted mechanic

Originally Posted by Dicko

Their putting the 2.8 turbo D motor and auto box from the Hilux in them.


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Well thats stupid. Makes the hilux a better option... The point of it is that a light truck runs anything up to 16L/100Km, way more fuel burn. Yet purchase price gets more attractive with the stupid tax so the climate loses. Awesome.

But that does make the current 70 a bloody desirable beastie!

I've had a few, highly recommend ARB Old Man Emu suspension. Makes it drive a bit more like something designed after 1950.

Some good starting points for mods here! Would recommend these cup holders to bring the wagon into the 21st century https://www.thelandcruisershopnz.com/70seriescupholders,

As for sound system definately pull out the factory headunit provided it dosent void the warranty. Personally id go for an android based unit allowing the use of NZtopo or any map app you like. Would suggest this one https://teyes.co.nz/products/teyes-c...38046897602756

Lastly to save your engine get the EGR programmed out and plated and a secondary fuel filter

Originally Posted by J-W-G

Some good starting points for mods here! Would recommend these cup holders to bring the wagon into the 21st century https://www.thelandcruisershopnz.com/70seriescupholders,

As for sound system definately pull out the factory headunit provided it dosent void the warranty. Personally id go for an android based unit allowing the use of NZtopo or any map app you like. Would suggest this one https://teyes.co.nz/products/teyes-c...38046897602756

Lastly to save your engine get the EGR programmed out and plated and a secondary fuel filter

He cant because it a new truck and that will no doubt void warranty, as soon as the warranty is over there's a whole heap of mod's you can/should do but modifications that are allowed with warranty will be bugger all if any i would say

These trucks are not immune from engine / drive line issues. I’d run it std for a while and see what I really needed to change for my own use pattern. No point putting 20-30 k in and finding it’s not giving a great return and voiding a warranty. Better rubber might be a give me on the next tyre change.


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Any 4wd is only as good as the tread on the tyres...

First thing is put mud tyres on it.

Originally Posted by Vault

Any 4wd is only as good as the tread on the tyres...

First thing is put mud tyres on it.

Pretty much all I’ve done to mine.


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Originally Posted by Vault

Any 4wd is only as good as the tread on the tyres...

First thing is put mud tyres on it.

That quickly becomes an expensive hobby! I know, I have 3 wagons on 33" tyres.
Especially when you're mostly mile-munching on roads and tracks.
Good long-wearing A/Ts would be more suitable for him by the sound of it.

You can get good wearing a
M.ts these days that are closer to a.ts that have really good on and off road manners. The khumo mt51s i had on the prado were great , i know some people dont like khumos but I've had a great run with them and they arent too pricey.

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If you decide for more power, go to a respected tuner who can write maps or have factory training from their chip suppliers I.e unichip which is more of a programmable oiggy back ecu which can be easily adjusted and defeats error codes associated with high boost cuts etc. plug in chips are generally short-lived. Do your homework and make sure tuner has dyno verify their tunes.
70 serier clutches don't like being pushed and generally need replacing when increasing torque / power
Be very aware of people who remap ecus without a post dyno run showing AFR, boost data etc.

Best of luck.

Originally Posted by Mistral

I've had a few, highly recommend ARB Old Man Emu suspension. Makes it drive a bit more like something designed after 1950.

Hhmm.. tempting.

Originally Posted by J-W-G

As for sound system definately pull out the factory headunit provided it dosent void the warranty. Personally id go for an android based unit allowing the use of NZtopo or any map app you like. Would suggest this one https://teyes.co.nz/products/teyes-c...38046897602756

Thanks, JWG
That Teyes head unit looks like a biz,
I will talk to driving sounds first before doing anything.

Originally Posted by Carbine

He cant because it a new truck and that will no doubt void warranty, as soon as the warranty is over there's a whole heap of mod's you can/should do but modifications that are allowed with warranty will be bugger all if any i would say

Originally Posted by Dicko

These trucks are not immune from engine / drive line issues. I’d run it std for a while and see what I really needed to change for my own use pattern. No point putting 20-30 k in and finding it’s not giving a great return and voiding a warranty. Better rubber might be a give me on the next tyre change.

Originally Posted by 11mms

That quickly becomes an expensive hobby! I know, I have 3 wagons on 33" tyres.
Especially when you're mostly mile-munching on roads and tracks.
Good long-wearing A/Ts would be more suitable for him by the sound of it.

That's the plan, run it standard until I get the feel,
don't want to jeopardise the warranty for now.

Originally Posted by Vault

Any 4wd is only as good as the tread on the tyres...
First thing is put mud tyres on it.

I thought of that but all my other utes are MT and this is the only AT on it
will keep it as it is for now.

Originally Posted by Stump

If you decide for more power, go to a respected tuner who can write maps or have factory training from their chip suppliers I.e unichip which is more of a programmable oiggy back ecu which can be easily adjusted and defeats error codes associated with high boost cuts etc. plug in chips are generally short-lived. Do your homework and make sure tuner has dyno verify their tunes.
70 serier clutches don't like being pushed and generally need replacing when increasing torque / power
Be very aware of people who remap ecus without a post dyno run showing AFR, boost data etc.

Best of luck.

Thanks, maybe one day but for now, I'd run it standard until I get the hang of it.

I can help you with advice on auxiliary battery systems to run all the accessories. There's a lot of excessive stuff talked about online, I've run keep-it-simple systems for many years and never suffered the indignity of warm beer anywhere in the world since I started overlanding in the mid 90s.

Redarc is my preferred brand.