Thread: BJ73 Landcruiser

Originally Posted by gimp

Does anywhere in NZ sell genuine Toyota parts cheaper than a dealership? Frickin 700+ bucks for parts that would be 320+ shipping from an online seller in the us

It's been years since I brought any land cruiser parts (actually decades as the catalog has 1999 on it) but these blokes used to be the absolute snizzle

NZ 4wd Parts and Accessories (Auckland)
09 2636021
info@4wd.co.nz

I have a complete break booster off a HJ60 in my garage if it's compatable and any use to you.

The best way to handle this is to buy another cruiser with a clapped out motor and park it in a shed for spares.

Originally Posted by MassiveAttack

Thats the one. Don't break them in the first place. Get it red hot (if you can) with the propane torch, cool it down with crc and the heating\cooling cycle breaks the rust bond and sucks the crc into the thread. Work it backwards and fowards slowly and take it all the way out.

If you do break a nut then often you can get it out by either cutting a slot in what remains with a dremmel and using a flat bladed screwdriver or by welding a nut onto what remains and taking it out that way.

Replace with a new bolt and run a tap through the thread for good luck.

I tried the cutting a slot method in the broken bolt in that alternator, it did not work. Then I snapped off an ez-out in it. Then I tried to drill that out. Then I took it to my local welder and he charged me 20 bucks to tack a bit of steel on and wind it out. Then I decided to buy a welder.

Originally Posted by MassiveAttack

It's been years since I brought any land cruiser parts (actually decades as the catalog has 1999 on it) but these blokes used to be the absolute snizzle

NZ 4wd Parts and Accessories (Auckland)
09 2636021
info@4wd.co.nz

I have a complete break booster off a HJ60 in my garage if it's compatable and any use to you.

The best way to handle this is to buy another cruiser with a clapped out motor and park it in a shed for spares.

Cheers

Booster appears fine; the brake issue was a vacuum leak from my busted clutch booster.... solved by simply disconnecting that and capping the outlet on the vacuum reservoir for it. Will remove the reservoir and fittings for it from the vacuum pump some time which will make some space and properly solve the problem. The clutch booster is going in the bin, going to adapt a clutch master from a non-boosted cruiser to fit mine, just have to knock a captive nut off the firewall and modify the clutch line I think. Which will make even more space around that right hand side of the engine...

Originally Posted by gimp

I tried the cutting a slot method in the broken bolt in that alternator, it did not work. Then I snapped off an ez-out in it. Then I tried to drill that out. Then I took it to my local welder and he charged me 20 bucks to tack a bit of steel on and wind it out. Then I decided to buy a welder.

The ez outs are hardened steel so if you break one of those you are really in trouble! Welding a nut to it heats it up as well which can break the rust seal. There is a black art to rusty bolts.

Originally Posted by MassiveAttack

The ez outs are hardened steel so if you break one of those you are really in trouble!

Unless you know how to do it.

Spent the morning mucking around doing little bits and pieces.

Moved my license plate bracket


Had ordered new hood bumpers which had arrived so I replaced them.

Old and busted


Doesn't line up properly

New and shiny

Adjusted these also


Lines up nicely. New bumpers didn't actually do shit to help it line up but oh well they cost $16 for 4


Fixed the outer door weatherstripping on my passenger door and put in the new window seals. Old and busted


New and actually sealing


Removed the vac reservoir for the clutch booster. So much more room!


Fixed my drivers door lock/diesel cap cylinders, this was easy


Put bash plates back on underneath also, drilled out a broken bolt and tapped the hole to 10x1.5. Ran an m8 tap through all the other bolt holes and ran the bolts through a die nut.

Then discovered my injector pump is leaking

http://youtu.be/bZExeg0_N_M

Other parts that have arrived are valve cover gasket for when I do my valve clearances, shifter seat bushing and seal, and gasket and cover and bolts for PTO output on the xfer case, but I might keep the PTO winch now, having priced up Warn electric winches

Hey Gimp, nice write-up, thanks for doing it. I'm looking for a new vehicle, & was hoping to get something that could be used for daily driving, farm driving, basic off-roading, spotlighting, etc. I was thinking of getting the same model Cruiser as yours, removing the hardtop & getting a soft top made up for it. Any advice or wisdom you could pass on regarding my intended all-around usage, & your experience so far with the vehicle? Cheers!

Oh, hi from TFR too...

Originally Posted by p0stal b0b

Hey Gimp, nice write-up, thanks for doing it. I'm looking for a new vehicle, & was hoping to get something that could be used for daily driving, farm driving, basic off-roading, spotlighting, etc. I was thinking of getting the same model Cruiser as yours, removing the hardtop & getting a soft top made up for it. Any advice or wisdom you could pass on regarding my intended all-around usage, & your experience so far with the vehicle? Cheers!

Oh, hi from TFR too...

They're rad. Get a BJ74 or HZJ73 if you can - the BJ74 has the 13BT 3.4 turbo engine, and the HZJ73 has the 1HZ 4.2, they're both a bit more grunty than my anaemic 3.4L 3B, it struggles a little on the highway. Realistically it's fine though, you just end up going over the Crown Range in 3rd at 50km instead of 4th at 70.

Factory soft top versions come up occasionally but they're pretty uncommon. I dunno how hard/expensive it would be to get a soft top made. It wouldn't be practical to take the hardtop on and off all the time, it's pretty heavy and I think you'd end up stuffing the seals. Also the rear doors would need to be cut down into half-doors if you wanted to do a custom soft top. And you'd need to make some kind cage cos there isn't anything to support a soft top at the back.

I'm getting about 11.6L/100km average for highway driving, about 13L/100km mixed highway/city. Efficient/cheap enough as a daily driver. It's extremely fun to drive/own


If you want something that's a semi-capable 4wd, decent daily driver, etc, with an easily removable top, there's always the Daihatsu Rocky - lightweight rear hardtop that can be removed and a targa top in the front which just pops out. Be more waterproof/secure than a softtop of any description and they're pretty good little trucks

My old Rocky was cool







I disconnected my non-functional aircon by the simple method of removing the belt and the idler pulley. Now to sit back and enjoy my improved fuel economy without all that parasitic drag. Power steering idler pulley feels like it's on the way out, will have to replace it.


Also decided to check the shifter seat bushing, since apparently they wear out and I had bought a spare one. Turns out mine is fine, which should have been obvious given that I have very little slop in my shifter. Then I spent an hour pulling the interior apart to try get the 4 tiny bolts that hold the shifter boot on back in, frickin carpet was in the way.



Also removed a bunch of junk wiring that used to be hooked up to spotlights, which I am never going to want. Didn't electrocute myself and the radio gets better reception, bonus.


Any ideas what that finned aluminium whatsit is? because it's clearly not factory, has a mystery hot wire to it off the battery which is routed in the most retarded fashion along the chassis, wonder if it's cool to just rip it out

fix ya pics

Originally Posted by Timmay

fix ya pics

way ahead of you

is it 24v? it could be a voltage converter maybe, cant see the pics that well off a phone

Yeah the truck is 24V

Originally Posted by gimp

They're rad. Get a BJ74 or HZJ73 if you can - the BJ74 has the 13BT 3.4 turbo engine, and the HZJ73 has the 1HZ 4.2, they're both a bit more grunty than my anaemic 3.4L 3B, it struggles a little on the highway. Realistically it's fine though, you just end up going over the Crown Range in 3rd at 50km instead of 4th at 70.

Factory soft top versions come up occasionally but they're pretty uncommon. I dunno how hard/expensive it would be to get a soft top made. It wouldn't be practical to take the hardtop on and off all the time, it's pretty heavy and I think you'd end up stuffing the seals. Also the rear doors would need to be cut down into half-doors if you wanted to do a custom soft top. And you'd need to make some kind cage cos there isn't anything to support a soft top at the back.

I'm getting about 11.6L/100km average for highway driving, about 13L/100km mixed highway/city. Efficient/cheap enough as a daily driver. It's extremely fun to drive/own


If you want something that's a semi-capable 4wd, decent daily driver, etc, with an easily removable top, there's always the Daihatsu Rocky - lightweight rear hardtop that can be removed and a targa top in the front which just pops out. Be more waterproof/secure than a softtop of any description and they're pretty good little trucks

Great info, cheers. I'll look for a turbo version, I reckon. Fabbing up a cage, or even better, some removable supports for a soft top wouldn't be a problem. I looked at the Rocky, but I currently drive a 3-door Suzuki Escudo, & I was looking for something with a bit more room, & some towing power. Also something that doesn't feel like I'm hooning along in a tupperware container full of loose lego bricks at highway speeds...

Also a heap or relays in that other pix by the looks. Maybe they are set up to run a trailer plug on 12v off that voltage converter? Have you got a towbar etc?