mine seems to be doing 10km per litre. although its doing nothing at the moment, fucking 1KZ heads
mine seems to be doing 10km per litre. although its doing nothing at the moment, fucking 1KZ heads
Check your PM's Konev
Life is natures way of keeping meat fresh
Well,
all the oils and filters changed, radiator flushed out (was blocked as heck), snorkel and manual hubs fitted, 2x new batteries, new shocks coming.
Going to hit up Tom's Offroad for barwork all round when I go back to work next year
Nice!
Tom does some real awesome work. It's more like art. His skills are very impressive!
If anyone wants to see more examples of his work go to.....
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Foru...p?f=67&t=27391
Last edited by cambo; 10-12-2012 at 07:11 PM.
Life is natures way of keeping meat fresh
You buy an auto one poss?
The head isnt the problem, the auto radiator is.
Mines the same as yours, manual etc. When I first got it id get 350-400 per tank, but if you drive them shifting way low in the rpm, i can get almost 500 per tank. I however drive it like a car.
At the moment I'm averaging 420km a tank, usually put 2 tanks through a week, and I get wayyyyyy more km's around town than on the open road. It revs far to high in 5th at 100 km, which may be why the autos are so much better on gas. Ive never got below 10l/100km in it.
Chris
It's actually intake temps that do the damage in the majority of the cases.
The whole cooling system does need to be kept in very good condition also though.
On the KZN185 models (intercooled turbo) the radiator has been changed to plastic tanks and larger core. Also the factory trans cooler has been relocated so that the pipe doesn't partially block the lower outlet (like on the KZN130 models).
At our work (Toyota dealership), we recommend people remove the factory trans cooler and fit an aftermarket cooler. And also replace the lower tank with a manual type (no cooler built in it).
1 of the best things to do is either block or, better still, remove the EGR system. This stops the intake temps getting so hot and will reduce the chances or the head cracking.
There are other things that can be done as well to help: viscous fan re-oiled, cooler thermostat (76 or 71 degree - factory is 82), larger free flow exhaust system and dump pipe are just some that make a noticable difference.
Also the factory temp gauge is known to be a very poor sign. There is a modification that can be done that increases the sensitivity of the gauge and is a lot more reliable than factory. (Temp Gauge Mod)
Life is natures way of keeping meat fresh
Snorkel seems to have improved my mileage by around 10%, I'm getting ~8.5km per litre now which is about the same as I got with my 1.6l petrol Rocky - but the Surf doesn't run on $2.30/l "premium" petrol
Mine is an Airflow one, $399 I think from a 4wd shop in Qtown
It's very ugly now that it's actually installed (2 hours of labor on top of the 399 for the snorkel)
TJM Airtec look much nicer, $550 or so
turns out 4wd part webstores are way shitter than gun web stores, something I didn't believe possible
Visible in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQuMloJOXGc
another thing to do and only takes about an hour to do is make some extended diff breathers.
guide here DIFF BREATHERS
ENZED has the brass fittings.
yet to do front diff, but put rear diff through a bung on the rear tray and into the jack compartment under rear seat, all nice and hidden.
Yup breathers are on my to-do list
and swaybar disconnects, popped a bracket the other day
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