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Thread: Car headlight upgrades

  1. #16
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    Dec 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by The bomb View Post
    Lights on my 2017 ranger are worse than my 25yr old bt50 were.
    Exactry. I was really dissapointed with those, my 2013 PX2 outperformed the 2018 PX3 with near every bloody upgrade fitted (not including the aftermarket LED driving lights which I think were ARB as well...).

  2. #17
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    Jul 2017
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    Whangarei
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    Have a look at
    https://www.stedi.com.au/
    I have a VW Ute and after coming from a cars with HID or LED lights it was painful.
    Was also told that the LED bulbs available for the ute would lead to a failed WOF.

    I went down a light bar bar track as Stedi list a bars and instalation kit for the vw ute. Wired to tap into the High beam circuit with an off switch by the shifted to lock it off.
    In hind sight the 31.5" is almost too powerfull and 21.5" May have been a better option. Have to dip my lights for road signs, too much reflection.

    Then when on dip it's like driving in the dark. I still need to improve the dip beam power.

    nb, STEDI do a light bar with a CE cert that is legal in aussie, not sure about NZ.
    Z

  3. #18
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    Feb 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mmsaum View Post
    The 2011 hilux loves 100/90 bulbs in the main headlights

    Problem solved
    Great advice thanks.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    that hilux already has little driving lights down low.....see if you can tweak the bulbs in them....might be a whole lot more simple fix....and give you good visibility on low beam....
    True hadn’t considered that.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZQLewis View Post
    Have a look at
    https://www.stedi.com.au/
    I have a VW Ute and after coming from a cars with HID or LED lights it was painful.
    Was also told that the LED bulbs available for the ute would lead to a failed WOF.

    I went down a light bar bar track as Stedi list a bars and instalation kit for the vw ute. Wired to tap into the High beam circuit with an off switch by the shifted to lock it off.
    In hind sight the 31.5" is almost too powerfull and 21.5" May have been a better option. Have to dip my lights for road signs, too much reflection.

    Then when on dip it's like driving in the dark. I still need to improve the dip beam power.

    nb, STEDI do a light bar with a CE cert that is legal in aussie, not sure about NZ.
    Z
    First time I drove with the ARB lights and flicked them off as you say it as if you have all other lights off. Road sign reflection is a pain hence they are really best on less driven remote roads. I have one flood and one beam. Works well.

  6. #21
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    Jan 2022
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    Chch
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    46
    Quote Originally Posted by ZQLewis View Post
    Have a look at
    https://www.stedi.com.au/
    I have a VW Ute and after coming from a cars with HID or LED lights it was painful.
    Was also told that the LED bulbs available for the ute would lead to a failed WOF.

    I went down a light bar bar track as Stedi list a bars and instalation kit for the vw ute. Wired to tap into the High beam circuit with an off switch by the shifted to lock it off.
    In hind sight the 31.5" is almost too powerfull and 21.5" May have been a better option. Have to dip my lights for road signs, too much reflection.

    Then when on dip it's like driving in the dark. I still need to improve the dip beam power.

    nb, STEDI do a light bar with a CE cert that is legal in aussie, not sure about NZ.
    Z

    In theory you could fit those emark light bars to a vehicle and have it be w.o.f. legal. They would be effectively be considered a second pair of main-beam headlamps, so would need to be fitted as a pair and symmetrically mounted as close to the sides of the vehicle as practicable, as well as meeting the aim and switching requirements of main-beam lamps. In practice, I think the 13.5" would be the only one that you could get away with.

  7. #22
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    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    wairoa
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    470
    The first thing I would do is by a wiring harness for you head lights that goes straight from the battery to the headlights that has its own relays. This will ensure good power supply plenty of plug and play options. Don't use 90/100 they produce to much heat and can melt the polycarbonate lenses. The narva 120 or 150 plus are good. If the lenses are yellow or mercy get a bit of cut and polish and clean the headlights. If you replace the complete headlight for leds make sure they are e marked hope this helps
    pennyless likes this.

 

 

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