Most general services are just oil filter changed .and b.s comments like clean car .pressure wash.check all levels
Mostly generic reproduction of level of time service. I opt for no wash anymore as the amount if time my car has come back with shitty brush marks Over it.both our new cars out if warranty now.so I do the servicing myself.always change oil.with the best oil I can afford at the time .usually full synthetic .and change usually every 6k.
A lot of the checks are BS and the sheets are probably ticked back in the office. Over the years I have caught out dealership servicing on my cars over several brands.
The most recent one was classic - "remove wheels and check brakes", TICK! Problem was I had ommitted to leave out the socket for the locking wheel nuts, so how did they get the wheels off?
Check air filter - locking tabs still dusty underneath, never been unlatched. And so on.
Servicing is the dealership's golden goose, not what they make selling you the new vehicle.
Wasn't there a possible urban rumour that you have drain engine oil on a ranger and refill it with 10 minutes? As the oil pump doesn't re prime and can lead to engine failure ?
Si vis pacem, para bellum
If its an auto, the service interval is 240000kms from memory for the trans. Pant's off the trans for that job, so that'll pump the bill then!
Apparently that is correct and the servicing costs the dealer never mentioned when you were buying it.
Our new branch manager used to manage a Izuzu dealership and we were talking servicing costs since I had had to take the colorado in for one.
Actually he is shocked that our charge out rate p/h is less than what they were charging their mechanic's out at!!
Trust the dog.........................................ALWAYS Trust the dog!!
Yes - not just a Ranger thing it's a Pugeot idea. Variable displacement oil pump which takes less energy to drive the pump to deliver the correct volume of oil, but the consequence of that is if you let the oil drain out of the pump it's a bitch to reprime it and the usual methods like push the accelerator down will definitely not help and can destroy the engine. The only really easy ways to reprime the oil system if it's needed is way overfill the sump and leave the thing overnight for the air to migrate it's way out or wrangle up a device to mechanically backflush the system to push any air out. I would like to find out what they do in the factory to sort this out on first fill and test run, they must have an adapter that they fit up somehow to circulate oil through the system in such a way that the engine is mechanically protected while they run the thing and the pump clears itself and starts working all by itself...
Apparently the change process for these engine types is get everything prepped and ready to go including prefilling the new oil filter and turning the cellphone off, drop the old filter and replace with new, drop the sump plug and replace plug gasket while it's draining, as soon as the sump stops draining refit the sump plug and torque to spec, drop the premeasured amount of oil into the top of the engine and check dipstick to show it's registered and cross fingers and start the b'arch. Less than 10 minutes is a good rule of thumb, but there isn't a set time for this as it is basically oil draining back into the sump from out of the pump casing and pickup that causes the issue. I've heard of engines that the owner had no idea and did several oil changes including a coffee break to allow everything to drain and never had an issue, and then I've heard of one case where a dealer in Aus had issues even following the procedure and had to rebearing an engine (had to give the owner a loan vehicle, which ironically got written off in flooding a few days before his own vehicle was fixed and ready to be picked up). I think that's the reason for replacing the new filled filter prior to draining the sump - try and prevent everything draining back through the pump casing.
Why do they use 0w30 oil?
Surely it doesn't get cold enough to warrant that.
I'd have thought 5w30 was a fair bit cheaper being more common in NZ.
Fully synthetic uber trick expensive stuff - it will be what they speccd to get 0.002% better economy figures over cheaper oil no doubt, and set the clearances to match the oil.
And here in lye's the reason I bought an old 94 nissan /datsun single cab welldeck 1600cc petrol. Dead basic to fix , no creature comforts but good heater and stereo . oil filter $22. engine oil 4lt great western oil on sale at supercheap $35 ,only takes 3.8ltr ,no rucs to pay ,rego cheap and ute only cost $1300 ,reliable My Diesel mistral sits in garage most of time, I couldnt afford to run a new ute at those service costs.
And that's the reason why I run a landcruiser. 9.2 litres of 15/40 Castrol Vection oil. Bought in bulk for $4.20 per litre. Filter cartridge every 5000 kms. Grease every 2500 kms. Fuel filter every 10.000 kms. Air filter cleaned or changed when its needs it.
Easy and cheap. I only get the major services done at the shop when diff and gearbox oils need to be done.
I heard the other day that a new ranger service is 800 odd dollars. No thanks.
Bookmarks