Negative switched - yeah that's a vehicle thing. Most other things run positive switching, so the main current conductor is unimpeded (or so the theory goes). We can argue the whole 'positive attracts, negative repels' argument about which is the correct switching method later... Where it's a bit of a pain is trying to use different manufacturer's products together in terms of accessory and control/switching units that come in negative switching when everything else is positive switched - these are things that have displays or LED indicating lights on them. You either have to split feed the things or rewire one so everything is the same switching system. I used to run into this all the time with boats, especially with the older generation types where the main conductors had been in place for a few years. The negative earth cable was always fizzed up, and the conductor was pinked out and stuffed. Positive switched was usually OK on the switching side, with the corresponding fizz on the negative whereas the negative switched was invariably poosed across the whole unit.
Car won't start - hahahaha have fun with that, you'll probably find a tail light with a loose screw!
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