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Thread: Mechanics

  1. #16
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    nigel @ mobile brakes
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    bloody good guy
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  2. #17
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    You could try Brett at Undercar on Hayton Road, they do all that drum brake shit day in day out. We get our work stuff done there, relines & skims.
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  3. #18
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    Not a seized piston on the left rear? Note that that tyre is half the tread depth of the other side, were they fitted as a pair?
    Identify your target beyond all doubt

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    Not a seized piston on the left rear? Note that that tyre is half the tread depth of the other side, were they fitted as a pair?
    That’s a good point… the tyres were before my time but appear to be a matching set

  5. #20
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    I've seen the left rear tyre wearing at at higher rate than the right rear before, normally in conjunction with chopping the inside of the front left. I've put it down to travelling on rural heavily cambered roads where there isnt a mechanical issue causing it. I would have thought if it was a seized cylinder the opposite tyre would show the wear though, especially with an open diff??? Dunno, be interesting to find out if that is the case.

  6. #21
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    Cruisers have a mongrel rear drum brake setup, I’d go full tit in revers and rip handbrake on or stomp on brakes a few times, that will reseat them in position properly, then adjust them up to tire and 3 clicks off. Then try them out. Failing that I’d take drums off and have a look. That’s the easiest quickest way. They have a funny leading and trailing setup in them, and if use hand brake ib 4wd tends to pull shoes out of balance. If i was close I’d do it for you. Redone so many brakes on them it’d be done within a stubby per side. Cool model cruiser you got too

  7. #22
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie View Post
    Cruisers have a mongrel rear drum brake setup, I’d go full tit in revers and rip handbrake on or stomp on brakes a few times, that will reseat them in position properly, then adjust them up to tire and 3 clicks off. Then try them out. Failing that I’d take drums off and have a look. That’s the easiest quickest way. They have a funny leading and trailing setup in them, and if use hand brake ib 4wd tends to pull shoes out of balance. If i was close I’d do it for you. Redone so many brakes on them it’d be done within a stubby per side. Cool model cruiser you got too
    Mate, pretty sure ripping the handbrake on is not a good idea. I could be wrong but these could run a separate drum off the drive shaft for park brake, like Nissan Safari & Landrover...

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie View Post
    Cruisers have a mongrel rear drum brake setup, I’d go full tit in revers and rip handbrake on or stomp on brakes a few times, that will reseat them in position properly, then adjust them up to tire and 3 clicks off. Then try them out. Failing that I’d take drums off and have a look. That’s the easiest quickest way. They have a funny leading and trailing setup in them, and if use hand brake ib 4wd tends to pull shoes out of balance. If i was close I’d do it for you. Redone so many brakes on them it’d be done within a stubby per side. Cool model cruiser you got too
    Careful, you might end up drinking the rest of the slab trying to figure out why that hasn’t worked… The early 70s FJ40 next door to me has the handbrake on the drive shaft behind the transfer case. All that zooming around in reverse isn’t going to help much!
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    Just...say...the...word

  9. #24
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    Had the mobile brake guy around, sounds like he made some adjustments. Just need to take it in for recheck
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerazziSC3 View Post
    Had the mobile brake guy around, sounds like he made some adjustments. Just need to take it in for recheck
    nigel?

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerazziSC3 View Post
    Had the mobile brake guy around, sounds like he made some adjustments. Just need to take it in for recheck
    Let us know how you got on once recheck done
    Yep, that's a potato

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyblown View Post
    Careful, you might end up drinking the rest of the slab trying to figure out why that hasn’t worked… The early 70s FJ40 next door to me has the handbrake on the drive shaft behind the transfer case. All that zooming around in reverse isn’t going to help much!
    Yeah, the bloody Cardan shaft brake. Prick of an idea, had the WoF man up about slapping one of my Safari's around by testing it on their brake machine. Found out he wrote one off the next day doing the exact same thing, slow learner. Bloody expensive repair as I understand it, wrote off the driveshaft! That park brake setup is only to be used when stationary or in an emergency situation, not a great design to be brutally honest.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by No.3 View Post
    Yeah, the bloody Cardan shaft brake. Prick of an idea, had the WoF man up about slapping one of my Safari's around by testing it on their brake machine. Found out he wrote one off the next day doing the exact same thing, slow learner. Bloody expensive repair as I understand it, wrote off the driveshaft! That park brake setup is only to be used when stationary or in an emergency situation, not a great design to be brutally honest.
    Correct. You should see how they go on small trucks when loaded.

    Utterly useless and unreliable.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by tac a1 View Post
    Correct. You should see how they go on small trucks when loaded.

    Utterly useless and unreliable.
    And yet the NZTA expects the truck ones to be tested on the brake rollers now

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by makka View Post
    And yet the NZTA expects the truck ones to be tested on the brake rollers now
    Well I guess in their defence, if they fark them on the brake machine it is likely that they wouldn't have worked when needed. The weakness as it is (although you are relying on one drum, with two shoes rather than on the wheels with four shoes and two drums which is 50% more redundancy) is in the driveshaft and pinions - that's where the failures seem to happen with them. The driveshaft either unwinds itself with the sudden shift from load side to unload (it was explained to me as similar to trying to grab reverse at 30Km/H and slowly releasing the clutch) which causes the pinions to flop about. If there is any wear and play the things take a hate to you most ricky ticky.

 

 

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