Thread: my poor hot smurf

When I had a similar issue I was amazed at the difference topping up the radiator had then running with the heater and fan on full noise had. Brought the temperature down to normal for the run from Whites Bridge over Porters and back home. Stopped a few times to top up on the trip. Wasn't the most peasant trip home with the outside temperature around 30C.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

When I had a similar issue I was amazed at the difference topping up the radiator had then running with the heater and fan on full noise had. Brought the temperature down to normal for the run from Whites Bridge over Porters and back home. Stopped a few times to top up on the trip. Wasn't the most peasant trip home with the outside temperature around 30C.

Yea I had a hondamatic civic, all those early civics had cooling problems and the older they got the worse they got. I used to tow my gpr1300r ski behind it all the way up the lakes. I wired up a manual switch for the cooling fan and any hill was heater on full and rape it in first (only a 2 speed).
Mind due I always carryed water in that vehicle and I enjoyed the irony of towing 20grand with 400 dollars.

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Yea I had a hondamatic civic, all those early civics had cooling problems and the older they got the worse they got. I used to tow my gpr1300r ski behind it all the way up the lakes. I wired up a manual switch for the cooling fan and any hill was heater on full and rape it in first (only a 2 speed).
Mind due I always carryed water in that vehicle and I enjoyed the irony of towing 20grand with 400 dollars.

The old Toyotas had a good heater, ergo a good secondary engine cooing system. The first things that go in a vehicle are bog roll, jumper leads, tow rope and a bottle of water.

throw the rad away, you will be super lucky if head not rooted

I would replace the water pump while the radiators out, if it got really hot the seals on that might have had a hard time and it's a quick job while you have a bit of extra space with radiator out. It's about 2.5k (all goin well) to redo the head so money spent protecting cooling is well spent. Replacing water pump and radiator are simple undo, bolt back on jobs

Big thanks to @gadgetman for dropping around to have a look see for me.
So at what point do I know if the head is rooted? Obviously the first step is to replace the radiator. Is there an easy way to work out it out or can the local mechanic check it easily? Or is it a case of waiting for something catastrophic to happen? I'd rather get it fixed before that happens but not if it isn't necessary.

Cheers

Originally Posted by sheppard84

Big thanks to @gadgetman for dropping around to have a look see for me.
So at what point do I know if the head is rooted? Obviously the first step is to replace the radiator. Is there an easy way to work out it out or can the local mechanic check it easily? Or is it a case of waiting for something catastrophic to happen? I'd rather get it fixed before that happens but not if it isn't necessary.

Cheers

"using" water or getting hot even tho the radiator/pump is good are sure signs of head and or gasket problems, I think there is a test mechanics can do these days that is a bit more scientific than looking in the radiator?

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

"using" water or getting hot even tho the radiator/pump is good are sure signs of head and or gasket problems, I think there is a test mechanics can do these days that is a bit more scientific than looking in the radiator?

@longrange308?

TK test

Reacts to combustion gases in the cooling system (head gasket) but doesn't do diesel engines

So, whilst I would love to put in a genuine toyota radiator the price I got from the toyota dealership was an astonishing $1250 with a waiting time of 3 weeks!! When the lovely people at A1 Radiators gave me a price of $320 for a copper/brass aftermarket one which is off the shelf. Will chase up a few other avenues for a toyota radiator but it doesn't seem as though it would be able to come down far enough for me to be able to pay for it (I do realise that the dealers will ream me for it).

Sooooo, thoughts anyone? Anywhere else to try for a toyota radiator? Are the aftermarket ones worth avoiding?

Cheers, Rhys

if its a automatic keep in mind you may need a trans cooler fitted as well.

If it was me I'd stop looking. That is a good price and I doubt the Toyota part would be any better.

try tm there will be new ones on there if you put an alloy plastic one in it completely flush the cooling system you dont want to mix old antifreeze with new stuff it will react and your new radiator will leak within a month and you cant repair it as as said youl be lucky if the head hasn't cracked if you find someone that knows what they are doing the only thing you can do to test the head without taking it off is to do a cylinder leak test cast iron heads don't like getting hot

Originally Posted by northdude

try tm there will be new ones on there if you put an alloy plastic one in it completely flush the cooling system you dont want to mix old antifreeze with new stuff it will react and your new radiator will leak within a month and you cant repair it as as said youl be lucky if the head hasn't cracked if you find someone that knows what they are doing the only thing you can do to test the head without taking it off is to do a cylinder leak test cast iron heads don't like getting hot

1KZ-TE has a alloy head. A cylinder leakage test with the cap off should find a leak - it would pay to do two tests, one STONE COLD and one hot.

That price is the cheapest I have seen for a non alloy around town