Thread: New Gadget Mobile

Apologis in advance GM but i just have to suggest one of these


Although I think it might struggle to pull string out of a wet paper bag !!

See on the last swazi man hunt in turkey they were using ladas

Cambelts aren't an issue, and can't you get the roof rust proofed? Just an idea.

Originally Posted by Savage1

Cambelts aren't an issue, and can't you get the roof rust proofed? Just an idea.

To rust proof the Safari roof you usually have to rip the head linings out and drill holes in the inner layer of steel to squirt the goo in, also since the vehicle will be 20-25 years old a lot on the damage will already be there. The other option would be to make a fibreglass lid and slap that on.

Cam belts are not a big issue, they are just something you don't have to do with the under powered Nissan.

Think I'm fairly set on a non turbo manual of either but open to persuasion.

go for the one with the best door locks ! .
both good trucks . My experience is the cruiser drives nicer , on road ( my 2 cents )

Originally Posted by Munsey

go for the one with the best door locks ! .
both good trucks . My experience is the cruiser drives nicer , on road ( my 2 cents )

Yeah, will be looking at ways to immobilise whatever I get. I can get past the locks in virtually any vehicle in three seconds, and I'm an honest bugger. Used to have to break into rental cars to recover locked in keys when they were locked in at the end of the rental; in the old days when it was just the big two that were allowed booths at the airports.

Re the gearboxes, manuals seem to last fine in the non turbos but cant handle the extra torque of the turbo version.
I plan to swap mine to manual when I can find one for a decent price to recondition before installing it.

I'm leaning more towards the Toyota. Ground clearance and a turning circle would be useful. Would likely be a turbo/auto as the manuals seem to be harder to find than in the Nissan. What is the auto like for engine braking on a good descent?

Fine if you manually shift it back, In low box low gear its incredible,slower than the hilux was on real steep stuff.

Think we may have a winner. Looks like I will be back to Toyota. Good thing is I can pick one up down here for a good price too.

Good stuff - trust photos will follow.

Will do some tyre kicking this weekend. What should I look out for? Bits to avoid, bonus bits, diff locks and how to identify, ...

Will be something in the 400,000km range.

Problem sorted:

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Will do some tyre kicking this weekend. What should I look out for? Bits to avoid, bonus bits, diff locks and how to identify, ...

Will be something in the 400,000km range.

Shit you don't ask for much do you

400k on a Cruiser is just run in. Bodies don't rust like pootrols.
Look for a 24V if you can. The 12v have issues with big end bearings failing with higher ks. Not a big job to replace though if needed. Might get a better deal on a 12v due to that though. If the oil pressure guage flucuates or doesn't move off lowest mark when idling, it is normally a sign they need doing.
You will definately want a turbo as well GM. Anything to help you move faster ........
Watch out for front drive flanges wear and they can loose drive if bad enough, geing permanant 4wd.
There are kits available to make them 4wd/2wd selectable. It's not just a matter of fitting free wheeling hubs.
Ice box in the centre consle is very handy for cooling beverages.
Have a good look around where the steering box mounts to the chassis. The welds crack and the chassis needs welding and strengthening. Problem more prevalant on trucks with big wheels.
Triple diff locks are very handy if you can find 1 with them. Very sort after so prices are much higher though.
They can blow smoke when cold. Typical Cruiser type thing. When warm they seem to be OK.
Look out for any fuel leaks from the injector pump. We seem to have done a few over the last few months. Not just top gasket either. Need full strip and o/haul.
P/s pumps can leak, but easy job to rekit.

We have trucks that come into work that have done over 500ks and still going strong.

Originally Posted by cambo

Shit you don't ask for much do you

400k on a Cruiser is just run in. Bodies don't rust like pootrols.
Look for a 24V if you can. The 12v have issues with big end bearings failing with higher ks. Not a big job to replace though if needed. Might get a better deal on a 12v due to that though. If the oil pressure guage flucuates or doesn't move off lowest mark when idling, it is normally a sign they need doing.
You will definately want a turbo as well GM. Anything to help you move faster ........
Watch out for front drive flanges wear and they can loose drive if bad enough, geing permanant 4wd.
There are kits available to make them 4wd/2wd selectable. It's not just a matter of fitting free wheeling hubs.
Ice box in the centre consle is very handy for cooling beverages.
Have a good look around where the steering box mounts to the chassis. The welds crack and the chassis needs welding and strengthening. Problem more prevalant on trucks with big wheels.
Triple diff locks are very handy if you can find 1 with them. Very sort after so prices are much higher though.
They can blow smoke when cold. Typical Cruiser type thing. When warm they seem to be OK.
Look out for any fuel leaks from the injector pump. We seem to have done a few over the last few months. Not just top gasket either. Need full strip and o/haul.
P/s pumps can leak, but easy job to rekit.

We have trucks that come into work that have done over 500ks and still going strong.

Thanks Cambo. The big end bearings going seems to be a common problem at 100,000-150,000km. Are there better after market bearings available? The non rusting is a plus, normally easier to replace engine bits than body bits. Any idea on the cost of the 2x4/4x4 kits?