Thread: Price it - Mitsubishi triton 2007

Firstly sorry for the shit photo it’s all I have and I’m in bed with covid and not getting up anytime soon.
We have this 2007 Mitsubishi triton, done 305,000km, 4wd, mud tyres, can’t remember the label but apparently a good brand of snorkel, bash plate, tow bar, canopy, electric seats blah blah blah.
A really nice truck however on long trips 2+hours involving windy and hilly roads the gearbox will slip and the temp light comes on and if you stop she won’t go forward unless you shut her off for atleast 5mins to cool. If you leave her for some time she won’t do it for a while but if you wait 5 and start driving again she will do it soon after again.
I don’t have the time or money to fix her so looking at selling her. Have had my father in law who is a qualified mechanic look at it and run the computer on it and could be a possible connection fault but I’m selling as is with the above description.
I have had people say $5k through to $14k, I have seen Utes not as nice for $10k not running at all. I don’t want to sell myself short but also don’t want to be waiting months for a sale so please any suggestions on a price?
It’s a pretty nice ute otherwise. Oh and almost forgot the dial for the heater broke off so no heating or cooling should be an easy fix still have the knob.

Have just remembered it has the “iron man set up” im not a car person so forgive the dumb

Probably need to be a little more specific - manual or auto? Diff lock version or LSD diff? From my experience, for a vehicle requiring mechanical repairs you would be lucky to get 50% of what it would realise if it was fully working - but from looking at that age and mileage private sellers are asking $14-$18K around that mileage (fully working no defects) - dealers are asking roughly 25-50% more.

Originally Posted by No.3

Probably need to be a little more specific - manual or auto? Diff lock version or LSD diff? From my experience, for a vehicle requiring mechanical repairs you would be lucky to get 50% of what it would realise if it was fully working - but from looking at that age and mileage private sellers are asking $14-$18K around that mileage (fully working no defects) - dealers are asking roughly 25-50% more.

Auto. Unsure on the diff lock. Someone said something about a compressor or something underneath?? We are pretty sure the gearbox is a connection have had a mechanic have a look and chuck the computer on and no signs of “wear” but it’s done many KMs so will sell as is where is.

It sounds more like you have a gearbox issue there chelsea. How much oil is in the auto?? Have you checked that and how long since it was changed?

Remember that autos have a heated exchanger in the radiator. It would need to be getting mighty hot, but its possible.

Originally Posted by tac a1

It sounds more like you have a gearbox issue there chelsea. How much oil is in the auto?? Have you checked that and how long since it was changed?

Remember that autos have a heated exchanger in the radiator. It would need to be getting mighty hot, but its possible.

Levels have all been checked at last service, it is due for another service but getting it in has been a headache between work and covid. I think it was the gearbox fluid that’s lower than the rest if I recall last look under the hood but it wasn’t at the low level yet. The fluid was checked because apparently it should have a sheen or something from the worn gearbox but it was clear of that. The computer reading done on it pointed to a connection issue. I know nothing about vehicles so sorry to sound completely stupid. We could possibly fix it but I have my Holden who I prefer to drive.

Auto gearbox fluid should be red, clear and not smell burnt. It needs to be at the right level too. too little fluid means excess heat in the fluid which the engine has to deal with etc.

Auto trans are fussy things. Make sure that when it gets its next service that the right grade of fluid is being used.

regards

K