Thread: trailer breaks/kits

Ive fitted waterproof LED lights on both the car trailer and the boat trailer...one set from repco,the other from supercheap....7-8-9 meters of cable (cut it too long and leave excess up chanelling for later changes) havent had issues with either set.....dead simple to fit,even a techtard like me found it easy....yes its an enclosed unit...but at less than $200 if Mrs manages to bust it up backing into something...well Ill just buy another set.... being hard wired into light end the only bit you need to do is the plug end..too simple really.

The other bit that I've found useful is flogged straight from mitre 10 and the hire outfits - run the trailer wiring up to a socket next to the tow hitch and then have a male-female adapter on a short cable. That way when someone munches it you can just chuck another one on, much easier...

Also the led adapters that some vehicles need can be sorted the same. Make up a lead with the resistors in it and it will save using a second adapter...

LOL.....because I changed trailers not long after wiring leds on.....the new trailer is of course longer than the old one.....so I got small clear honey jar and drilled cable sized hole in base and the lid....and put the joiners inside the jar......any issues with wiring and after the plug its the 2nd place to look....keeps it neat n tidy and out of the weather without having insulation tape for africa.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

LOL.....because I changed trailers not long after wiring leds on.....the new trailer is of course longer than the old one.....so I got small clear honey jar and drilled cable sized hole in base and the lid....and put the joiners inside the jar......any issues with wiring and after the plug its the 2nd place to look....keeps it neat n tidy and out of the weather without having insulation tape for africa.

That's one way - the other method of doing that is an electrical junction box up the front and run the bulk of the cable forwards and join it at the junction box. I still prefer the duraseal crimp and a quick blat with the heatgun to shrink and seal the crimps, or solder and two layers of dual wall heat shrink approach at the back end. Mate of mine got some sealed LED's with 7m of quality 5-core tinned cable already attached, and simply run them up the chassis and terminated both cables in the back of a 7-pin socket on the inside of the two rails just behind where they meet and the towing hitch is bolted on. He's got a couple of pilot lights coming from the same place. Makes the termination into the back of that socket a little messy, but it works. Then the little male-female lead to plug into the tow vehicle... That has lasted really well and so far after 5 years on a boat trailer hasn't need to be touched once.

The brakes on that trailer are another story - he managed to flick something up on a gravel road which flattened the bundy tube as he was slowing down and the trailer brakes were applied. It basically park braked the trailer and he was driving along with the brakes cooking off. New bearings, hubs, calipers, and stub axles later all back running as per. One of the few times I've seen stub axles blue on a trailer! A good reason not to run the bundy tube on the bottom of the chassis rails of the trailer.

Of interest to the discussion, saw this today regarding the trailer and brake standards they are talking about introducing. https://www.newstalkzb.co.nz/news/na...uments-reveal/ Would be so much easier to be able to use the Aussie air-over brake systems combined with a GVM upgrade pathway!

These are the guys I use:https://www.trailertek.com/trailer-p...SAAEgKvs_D_BwE

I have been running braked trailers for about 15 years.One 3.5 tonn machine trailer and a 3.5 tonn tipping trailer. For the most part the braked trailers are pretty good,the self adjusters are a bit unreliable so you have to manually tweak them up now and again.

Both systems run a rod from the hydraulic damper in the drawbar to a spreader bar that has four brake cables attached to it. The Cables eventually get rusty on the inside and need replacing as they can cause the brakes to hang up.A set of brake shoes lasts about two years and they are in use nearly each day. Dont leave the trailer sitting with the handbrake applied as the shoes can rust to the drum and definatly leave the brake off in the winter.

https://www.trailersauce.co.nz/

Some good info and plans on here

Originally Posted by norsk

These are the guys I use:https://www.trailertek.com/trailer-p...SAAEgKvs_D_BwE

I have been running braked trailers for about 15 years.One 3.5 tonn machine trailer and a 3.5 tonn tipping trailer. For the most part the braked trailers are pretty good,the self adjusters are a bit unreliable so you have to manually tweak them up now and again.

Both systems run a rod from the hydraulic damper in the drawbar to a spreader bar that has four brake cables attached to it. The Cables eventually get rusty on the inside and need replacing as they can cause the brakes to hang up.A set of brake shoes lasts about two years and they are in use nearly each day. Dont leave the trailer sitting with the handbrake applied as the shoes can rust to the drum and definatly leave the brake off in the winter.

Are you lubing the inside of your cables? Sounds a little weird but pumping them full of spray oil or a light synthetic spray grease helps keep the water and crap out as well as lubing the inner cable.

https://www.moto1.nz/products/oxox77...8c1a918a&_ss=r
https://www.moto1.nz/products/tmcltb...8c1a918a&_ss=r

Those are the lube devices, clamps around the end of the housing and seals onto the inner cable and stick a plastic tube off a spray can into the little rubber grommet. One thing I found, is safety glasses are a must as for whatever reason the backblast if you don't get the plastic straw sealed right always goes straight for your eyes...