Thread: which 50-60cc Stihl chainsaw

Originally Posted by woods223

Chainsaws etc generally aren’t as as highly tuned racing two stroke motors. Difference of less than 50 metres altitude and cold morning vs warmer air later in morning can lead to engine seizure coldie to leaning mixture. Fuel injected chainsaws are a little temperamental regarding this and rainy versus fine day. A few saws locally need to be put through tuning cycle regularly to get good day to day running. Pruning gangs seem to notice this more.

That would make total sense. Commercial users operate in a wider range of temperature and weather conditions, private users don't tend to come out until it's fine and dry haha.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Those temps will keep your saws cooler

In direct sunlight and sawing close to the ground we are often in 30/35 to 40 degrees C here in Hawkes Bay NZ

It’s likely your premix oil ratio is higher (less oil) than what we would get away with

Could well be?

It does get into the high thirties further east, Sweden and Finland get pretty jot. I can remember working in the stinking heat on the Napier side of the Kaweka's breathing in two stoke smoke because it just hung in the air.

Originally Posted by norsk

Could well be?

It does get into the high thirties further east, Sweden and Finland get pretty jot. I can remember working in the stinking heat on the Napier side of the Kaweka's breathing in two stoke smoke because it just hung in the air.

Grew up near there, know exactly what you're talking about. That stinking stifling heat with no wind to provide a bit of relief!

Cheers for all the info. Ended up with a Ms311 due to budget and recommendation from the dealer. Looking forward to using it later in the week

Originally Posted by Mackattack

Cheers for all the info. Ended up with a Ms311 due to budget and recommendation from the dealer. Looking forward to using it later in the week

Let us know your thoughts, 20” bar on your one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeap 20"

Originally Posted by StrikerNZ

Interesting to note that running your mix too oily can result in hotter internal temps too. This video uses a reasonably drastic example of 25:1 (compared to 50:1), so a much more exaggerated outcome than say 40 or 45 to 1, but still shows there definitely can be such a thing as too much oil, especially if running under heavy load over the longterm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ywMl30_JPI
(Skip to 13ish minutes if you just want the results)

This came up in the staffroom at work- Another way to skin it perhaps is that an oilier mixture has less 'fuel' per ml and is therefore leaner. A leaner mix would run hotter. I fiddled around with ratios and jetting on my KX. Trying to decipher what people meant by a richer/leaner mix was near impossible as it seems to be used both ways - richer = more oil or richer = less oil resulting in richer fuel : oil ratio.

Original question- I have a 365 with a 16" and 20" bar. The 16" is handy and I can get around most things, but the 20" comes out every now and again and the saw keeps up. Originally the 20 chain was set up to cut and the 16 set up the rip rings.

Originally Posted by Mackattack

Cheers for all the info. Ended up with a Ms311 due to budget and recommendation from the dealer. Looking forward to using it later in the week

311 is an ok saw, we don’t sell a lot of this model though. Just be careful if you jam your bar, don’t try and power your way out of trouble. You’ll overheat the clutch and melt the crankcase, end of saw! We’ve had a couple of casual firewood users do this.