The best I had is the the one I've just sold, and gone to GAS! Ya!![]()
Husky 0-60cc
Still 0-60cc
Still 60+cc
Husky 60+cc
The best I had is the the one I've just sold, and gone to GAS! Ya!![]()
Boom, cough,cough,cough
Got a Jonsered 2055 turbo. Found it in the shed in pieces of my house when i bought it. went to the tip shop and got a 16 inch bar. new chain. $60 total.. Its got way more torque then the father in laws stihl. Heated handle too. pretty flash![]()
It's a Poulan Ed, Oldies will remember.
"ars longa, vita brevis"
You could poul and poul my poulan and it still wouldn't start.
Which is worse, ignorance or apathy...I don't know and don't care.
So Stihl is the clear winner here.
I have never been payed to use a saw directly, but have used many saws of varying brands fairly extensively.
What do I own?
Your gonna laugh.
The first saw I "owned" was a 32cc "Tallon tough tools"32cc saw.after using all sorts of saws, sizes and brands this for home firewood at a 150 bucks may even have been less.
Its no secret I have some kind of obsessive compulsive thing with anything that is sharp and anything that runs on fuel, it can always go better!
The original 16? Inch bar and chain did a tank of fuel at 20 to1 and super hard work to run it in then it all came to bits.
Full strip and porting and custom but still "sociable" exhaust and 4 inches extra bar and it would CONSISTANLY out cut the old mans 40 something husky.
Due to mostly running the next pitch down chain I suspect.
(and possibly my obsession with things that are sharp, I would never sharpen on site I would take three chains and change if necessary) on pine logs off the ground(full bar but only one cut) the difference was very noticeable.
Not a standard saw against a standard saw and if I had to hang onto one all day every day it would be a husky or stihl but it does show what can be done with very limited cash.
That saw eventually died because the baker light block to carby thing I had ported eventually cracked, motor still good after getting close to hundreds of cords of firewood mostly native hard woods and a fair bit of blind cutting.
I got another the same but 34 cc and left it standard apart from bar and tuning, both of em the primer bulb has perished.
They both cut way out if proportion(with a bit of fettling) for there size and dollars.
You wou;d be a mug to buy one for commercial use, they vibrate like hell and need fuel up every 20min. But geese you can make em cut like fu^k!
When I was a young fella my high school sweethearts old man was a fairly legendary chainsaw racer, showed me a carb off a 40cc saw that was way bigger than my 125 motorcroser.
8 seconds for an engine(two races) and 40 hours into sharpening a chain ,Fastidious.
I always take down drags to suit the engine and wood being cut, lower drags for hard wood modded engine, standard drag height can be to much for softwoods, low torque big bar .
If you really want to cut wood its a science(sharpening)
"Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.
308Win One chambering to rule them all.
The exhausts on that thing are classic
I agree with VC here - it doesn't really matter what brand you have, it's more important that you look after what you've got and get it working to it's best potential
Out of curiosity, do any of you guys use those 12v chainsaw sharpeners or do most of yas file by hand?
Hand file only
A big fast bullet beats a little fast bullet every time
hand file only.
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"Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.
308Win One chambering to rule them all.
I get the tree arbo guys at work to sharpen mine
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The best chainsaw you can use is .......................................someone elses cause then yours stays in new condition
Trust the dog.........................................ALWAYS Trust the dog!!
The best chainsaw is probably one that hasn't been under a komatsu d65.
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