Thread: The flashlight sticky

Bet I know who that is

Originally Posted by Pengy

Bet I know who that is

No! He already has one, a bloke I work with...

Out of pure curiosity (nosey), is Our very own gadgetman the official nz based agent for service/repair on Maxtochs, or as I suspect, simply a bloody good bloke ?

Originally Posted by Pengy

Out of pure curiosity (nosey), is Our very own gadgetman the official nz based agent for service/repair on Maxtochs, or as I suspect, simply a bloody good bloke ?

Both. If you contact them with an issue you will get my details. I put my hand up and said I'd help out on a voluntary basis. They sent me a few spares which have only been dug into twice as there are few that seem to stop. I'm waiting to hear from @BRADS.

I have imported 4 of the versions built by the new supplier and 3 of them have failed so far. All 3 have failed switches, 3 desoldered and overheated the LED's and 2 of them fried drivers. None of them were modified beyond de-doming. The two that you have fixed are only a small percentage of those failed, I suspect.

The old version only fried LEDs but that happens with the terrible heat path design they employed (and still do.)

I then imported a few of the Olight M2X-UT after Maxtoch banned me buying direct for not "Kindly deleting my feedback". This is the model Maxtoch originally copied under the name sn6x-2. Two of them are heavily boosted in current on stock drivers and one has close to a thousand hours on it with a professional culler and still going strong.

The M2X is less than half the weight at 218 grams vs 448 grams for the sn6x-2x, the driver is more efficient (Measures less current in vs forward LED voltage), I paid slightly less for them, shipping is much faster, comes in a wicked hard case, has far more lumens and throw stock, far better colour temperature, driver is much better built and can be over boosted reliably, runs a genuine Omten switch and has a slightly smaller head so is easier to scope mount. The thermal path is near perfect too.

Plenty of amazing options out there if you are prepared to look through the bullshit.

Chris

Originally Posted by crnkin

I have imported 4 of the versions built by the new supplier and 3 of them have failed so far. All 3 have failed switches, 3 desoldered and overheated the LED's and 2 of them fried drivers. None of them were modified beyond de-doming. The two that you have fixed are only a small percentage of those failed, I suspect.

The old version only fried LEDs but that happens with the terrible heat path design they employed (and still do.)

I then imported a few of the Olight M2X-UT after Maxtoch banned me buying direct for not "Kindly deleting my feedback". This is the model Maxtoch originally copied under the name sn6x-2. Two of them are heavily boosted in current on stock drivers and one has close to a thousand hours on it with a professional culler and still going strong.

The M2X is less than half the weight at 218 grams vs 448 grams for the sn6x-2x, the driver is more efficient (Measures less current in vs forward LED voltage), I paid slightly less for them, shipping is much faster, comes in a wicked hard case, has far more lumens and throw stock, far better colour temperature, driver is much better built and can be over boosted reliably, runs a genuine Omten switch and has a slightly smaller head so is easier to scope mount. The thermal path is near perfect too.

Plenty of amazing options out there if you are prepared to look through the bullshit.

Chris

link?

Originally Posted by crnkin

I have imported 4 of the versions built by the new supplier and 3 of them have failed so far. All 3 have failed switches, 3 desoldered and overheated the LED's and 2 of them fried drivers. None of them were modified beyond de-doming. The two that you have fixed are only a small percentage of those failed, I suspect.

The old version only fried LEDs but that happens with the terrible heat path design they employed (and still do.)

I then imported a few of the Olight M2X-UT after Maxtoch banned me buying direct for not "Kindly deleting my feedback". This is the model Maxtoch originally copied under the name sn6x-2. Two of them are heavily boosted in current on stock drivers and one has close to a thousand hours on it with a professional culler and still going strong.

The M2X is less than half the weight at 218 grams vs 448 grams for the sn6x-2x, the driver is more efficient (Measures less current in vs forward LED voltage), I paid slightly less for them, shipping is much faster, comes in a wicked hard case, has far more lumens and throw stock, far better colour temperature, driver is much better built and can be over boosted reliably, runs a genuine Omten switch and has a slightly smaller head so is easier to scope mount. The thermal path is near perfect too.

Plenty of amazing options out there if you are prepared to look through the bullshit.

Chris

is the mx2 only half the size of the Maxtoch you are comparing it to with only one battery if so your weights may be a bit off?so if I buy a Olight can I get a problem solved inside 48hrs from the time I send it of to being back in my hands?the prices I have seen for the Olight mx3 are about double ($149usd) to what Maxtoch are charging.specs for both torches put them at 1200 lumens just curious as to why you think Olight is that much brighter?

Good points mg. Olight make fine lights, but I would not pick their new M2X-UT as a better hunter than the Maxtochs.

* Olight is a factory dedomed light producing 164k lux. Maxtoch M24 dedomed free by our man gadgetman produces 190-210k, and the 2X dedomed is a huge 250-280k - much better output.
* The Maxtochs' much higher output gives them greater range
* The olight is a single 18650 whereas the maxtochs run two batteries = much better runtimes. Essential for night spotting.
* Normal (non bulk, non sale) retail price for Olight M2X-UT is $109.95, whereas the better performing Maxtochs are $68 for the M24 and $75 for the 2X - much cheaper.

If people do want a smaller single batt light you can buy the short tube for the M24 at an extra $10. If people want a factory dedomed Maxtoch you can buy a factory dedomed 2X for $85 which puts out a whopping 280k lux - vastly beyond the M2X Olight's 164k - in fact it is also beyond the M2x's big brother the M3x which puts out 250k and costs US$149.95:

Aliexpress.com - Online Shopping for Electronics, Fashion, Home & Garden, Toys & Sports, Automobiles and more

As far as quality goes you only need to read the comments for the maxtoch light packages on aliexpress. Kiwis hunters love them and buy them by the hundreds. Or read the owner comments on Fish n hunt website - these lights have gained a very good reputation over the years. Whatever you do don't try to read this whole thread - 59 pages and over 90,000 reads - that's their popularity. Gadgetman and I get very few issues - quite rare.:

FishnHunt - New Zealands Famous Hunting and Fishing Forum Since 1995 - Maxtoch SN6X-2 upgrade soon....

There is a very good light man in the States - Rick who runs Mountain Electronics. This man really knows his lights, designs them, mods them, sells them, and he summed up the low-medium price, high performing Maxtochs very well:

"A while ago, I began searching for a light to bridge the fit and finish gap between the so-called "budget lights" and the much more expensive lights; with Maxtoch, I found what I was looking for! These lights don't just bridge the gap--they close it entirely! I consider the overall construction of these lights to be as good, or better, than any of the more expensive lights I've ever seen. The fit, finish, and presentation of these lights is top notch, with AR lenses, copper MCPCBs, great reflectors, nearly flawless HA anodizing and machining, and XM-L2 U2 LEDs from the factory. These lights look the part as well as they play the part. These are truly premium lights.

This is one of the best handheld or mounted hunting lights available at any price. The tube diameter was specifically chosen to be compatible with standard scope rings and this light is rugged enough to be used in just about any situation. "

So ... by all means buy a dedomed Olight M2X if you wish, but the dedomed Maxtochs are more powerful, have better range, better runtimes, and cost alot less. All those kiwi hunters have got it right.

i am sure the olights are ok but reading between the lines from crnkin he left bad feedback on aliexpress and then took the pip when he was shown the door when trying to order more if they were that bad why order more?.I think the maxtoch has exceptional back up here if Brian is sorting any issues highly unlikely i would get this sending a olight to the staes and back.

Yup, the numbers just don't add up for the Olight to compare with the Maxtoch. Knowing how reliable they are I had no hesitation putting my hand up to deal with any issues. I've been supplied with a heap of spares that just sit there. Other than fixing the screw issue all I've done is replace two circuit boards, one switch and one LED. Most of what I've done is testing new things and de-doming (up to 250 of those).

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Yup, the numbers just don't add up for the Olight to compare with the Maxtoch. Knowing how reliable they are I had no hesitation putting my hand up to deal with any issues. I've been supplied with a heap of spares that just sit there. Other than fixing the screw issue all I've done is replace two circuit boards, one switch and one LED. Most of what I've done is testing new things and de-doming (up to 250 of those).

Is the screw issue something to do with the tail cap? Just curious.

Originally Posted by 40bung

Is the screw issue something to do with the tail cap? Just curious.

No. They were supplied with 6mm long screws to screw the head to the flange when they were meant to be only 4mm and this wasn't picked up initially at the factory. This combined with a slightly long battery tube broke the contact with the circuit board. Quickly identified and easily remedied with a $3 screwdriver and the right screws.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

No. They were supplied with 6mm long screws to screw the head to the flange when they were meant to be only 4mm and this wasn't picked up initially at the factory. This combined with a slightly long battery tube broke the contact with the circuit board. Quickly identified and easily remedied with a $3 screwdriver and the right screws.

Ok cool

I have a new m24 and have a good supply of healthy pink Samsung 18650, but only at 2600 or 2700mha. They are protected. The m24 and 2s will head your way for a dedome, but,
When I put 2 fresh charged batteries in the m24 and screw on the tail and click the tail button nothing. So I unscrew half turn and click. Nothing. It is not until the cap is on its last turn of thread before falling off that the light will turn off and on with the tail switch. Does this sound like dodgy batteries or some uncommon random thing.

Originally Posted by 40bung

Ok cool

I have a new m24 and have a good supply of healthy pink Samsung 18650, but only at 2600 or 2700mha. They are protected. The m24 and 2s will head your way for a dedome, but,
When I put 2 fresh charged batteries in the m24 and screw on the tail and click the tail button nothing. So I unscrew half turn and click. Nothing. It is not until the cap is on its last turn of thread before falling off that the light will turn off and on with the tail switch. Does this sound like dodgy batteries or some uncommon random thing.

Possibly clean the threads and make sure the switch is screwed in tight (inside the tail cap). Also make sure you get button top rather than flat top batteries.

Cool, threads definitely got lots of clear grease on them. Will clean that and check button. Batteries are button top. Thanks.