I have an older maxtoch (dunno the model but before the 2x)
It's beam over powers the M24 when shone on a wall.
It weighs nothing and is just as grunty if not gruntier than the M24.
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I have an older maxtoch (dunno the model but before the 2x)
It's beam over powers the M24 when shone on a wall.
It weighs nothing and is just as grunty if not gruntier than the M24.
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Do what ya want! Ya will anyway.
Your M24 might need a tweak from gadget.
The first batch of the earlier SN6X-2s ran at about 50k lux and the second variant ran at 58-65k lux. Very good lights but M24 should have quite a bit more light on target past 200m.
Gadget man, can I possibly buy one of these tweeked 2x's from you?
I have one of those nitecore p-23 smilodin things that I got for rabbit shooting. Anyone have an ideal set up? I want to not rely on a spotlight but see well out far with good beam length and some flood. Ideally something not too big and I will just carry lots of batteries
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I don't sell them but happy to doctor any that folk buy. It only takes few minutes for me to de-dome.
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There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!
LR - this is the 2X. Just order it and get gadget to dedome it.
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I agree with you R93 - my guess would be 98% of night shooting is within 250m so the Maxis do that with a good visibility safety margin behind the target. Gadget reckons he can see ear tags on stock through the scope at night at 400m with M24 dedomed - that's a helluva lot more than I'd shoot.
Thanks for that Mudgripz. I'll buy one of those and send it down to gadgetman for his treatment. What's the story with 18650 battery's. I've got abou 12 ultra fire ones but they must be 3 years old now. I'm guessing I'll probably need some new ones to get the most out of the light. What brands are the go to? Can you post a link to ones I should buy.
Cheers for the help guys, I've crused all the light forums a bit in the past and without spending shit loads of time researching I thought it was all a bit mind boggling.
Heat from underneath and pop the dome. I've done over a hundred and haven't had a failure yet, but have done quite a few replacements where others haven't had the same success.
The petrol soaking seems to be harsh on the phosphorous layer. Most seem to come out dimmer and some with a bluer tint.
There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!
2X is a good handheld spottie, M24 is good as scope mounted or handheld. Some use 2X on scope but fairly solid at 440gms. We always dedome XMLs now.
For XML grunters like these best to have top brand 18650 (protected button top) batts with 3100/3400 mAh rating for optimum runtime. Panasonics best. Other good brands samsung, sanyo, nitecore, xtar, orbtronic, maxtoch. Try to get 2600 mAh minimum. Ultrafire batts are crap and their 3000-4000 etc ratings are worthless.
Sweet where do I buy Panasonic ones from then? Do you sell them Mudgripz?
I have an M24 on the way. How do they compare to popular contemporary lights like the LED lenser P 14 & 17?
Whats the trick with using heat? I've been reading a bit on BLF but haven't really found any details on how to do it.. And some of them don't recommend using heat.
Do you use a soldering iron? How long do you apply heat for/how hot do you need to get the LED? I thought excessive heat would melt the solder holding the LED to the PCB?
Sorry about all the questions but I wouldn't like to stuff it up!
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