Thread: Knife sharpening gear

Guys, I have some nice knives including Japanese Damascus chef's knives, etc.
Not just your usual old stainless crappy field knife.
My old oil stone has gone 'walk-a-bout' during our recent house move so I'm looking to get something better.
Thinking about a water stone this time but unsure of what grit to get. Dual sided probably best.
Like this...
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...4?bof=7uX19Ifb

But, what grit sizes are best for that achieve lovely fine edge?
1000/5000, 600/3000, etc?

Might also grab one of these just for the usual crappy old stainless kitchen knife.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...4?bof=ArfwEBGi

Or this (similar system).
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...7?bof=jX8uNAks

Your thoughts appreciated.

Im no expert but I use
2 of these in 500 and 2000 (only cause 1000 was sold out at the time).
https://piranhatools.co.nz/collectio...d-bond-shapton based in Brightwater of all places
I also have a Shun 2000/6000 combo water stone but not use it much.

look up Clay Tallstories,he is in your neighbourhood......he put out video some time back doing very classy blades......

first one great if you can keep angles ...what most of us have used forever in one form or another,Im actually using piece of rangitata river stone that has been shattered nearly perfectly straight now.
2nd one great for getting angles right....lanski put out a smaller set up but looks like use very similar stones,the scary sharp etc are same thing on bigger scale

My fallkniven dc3 gets a lot of use, diamond one side sapphire? The other one.... does eat away at your knife over time but find it's easy to take in a pack on short trips.

Have tried a couple of jig systems and prefer something simple, also have a few Japanese wet stones that are much finer but they rarely get used

spyderco. works great and easy to use

years back a mate showed me to use dish detergent on oil stones instead....it seems to work very well,never seen need to change back to oil LOL.sure washes off easier.

Definitely suggest buying from Piranah Tools, Gaston is magic to deal with, local and well worth supporting.

Both 600/3000 & 1000/5000 whetstones would complement each other and cover all your options.

Sing out if you want any of your beater knives run over a Tormek, I normally do everyone’s knives at work every once in a while.

Originally Posted by Moutere

Definitely suggest buying from Piranah Tools, Gaston is magic to deal with, local and well worth supporting.

Both 600/3000 & 1000/5000 whetstones would complement each other and cover all your options.

Sing out if you want any of your beater knives run over a Tormek, I normally do everyone’s knives at work every once in a while.

Thanks for that, but all good. I have my Lansky set for that.
Mainly interested in my Damascus steel chef knives (fancy kitchen stuff).
I did some more Googling and found the recommendation for Japanese Damascus steel knives to be 1000 grit to reshape them, and 3000 grit to sharpen. Can go higher in grit size (4000+) only if cutting vegetables/fruit.
Meat muscles will fold the edge on anything much over 3000 grit.
They are very finely edged, but bloody razor sharp. Love them, but Missus leaves them to me.
She feels safer just using plain old stainless (you know...the usual Farmers/Briscoes offerings).
Just looked up what a Tormek is. Lovely machine...but at $1300 (ish) it's probably more than a poor old pensioner needs.
Although, to be fair...I have been looking at a 450 Bushmaster. Now that really floats my boat!

Love my Shun knives, although the pretty wooden handles are a pain in the arse to be honest.

I quite liked my Gyuto knives but then discovered how good a Santoku knife is in the kitchen.
I have 4 Japanese Damascus knives now and a fancy multi layer bread knife.
Bought another 2 Gyuto knives for family members. Once you find a good thing it's hard to change!
For all those reading this who have no idea what we are talking about...
https://japanesechefsknife.com/

I have moved away from oil stones, and am now using water stones. Keep them stored in a plastic container with Simply Green detergent and they are always ready to go. I rarely sharpen above 1500 grit.

Due to my wife’s abuse of our kitchen knives and the disrespect shown to the hours spent sharpening, I now sharpen them on the linisher to 800grit then use a leather linisher belt and some green rouge. Mirror finish, and I can sharpen all 9 knives in under 15 minutes.

There is knife maker up Coromandel way that uses coil suspension springs to produce some masterpieces.
I dont think he does it drunk though

You need to match your stone finish to your steel you are going to use so if you have a coarse steel generally you use a course stone. Most get a nice sharp knife and wreck it buy using a too coarse of a steel and rip the edge off or steeling at different angles to what they have sharpened at and fold them over. Unless you are hollow grinding or have a very thin knife the really fine stones wont do much for you apart from take longer to sharpen especially on high carbon steel. Just my 2 cents worth

Originally Posted by country cuts

You need to match your stone finish to your steel you are going to use so if you have a coarse steel generally you use a course stone. Most get a nice sharp knife and wreck it buy using a too coarse of a steel and rip the edge off or steeling at different angles to what they have sharpened at and fold them over. Unless you are hollow grinding or have a very thin knife the really fine stones wont do much for you apart from take longer to sharpen especially on high carbon steel. Just my 2 cents worth

Could never understand why someone would spend a heap of valuable time sharpening a knife and then use what is essentially a round bastard file on it to ‘get an edge’. A steel should be super smooth if used, but way better to use a strop, particularly on carbon steel or the more modern super steels. If you are using a softish stainless than a bastard file is probably a good way to go and keep using it regularly (remember the dandruff add?)