Thread: Show me your knives

I'd choose any carbon steel with a decent heat treat over the more brittle stainless steels for a good hunting knife

Originally Posted by diana2

I'd choose any carbon steel with a decent heat treat over the more brittle stainless steels for a good hunting knife

There are some excellent stainless steels that are tough enough for any sort of hunting, and some carbon steels that that don't stain much that are even tougher (3V for instance). And some very tough carbon steels that won't hold a edge.
It is correct to say though that the more stainless a knife steel is in general it is less tough.
The best carbon steels of today are also way better than the old traditional carbon steels - but are more difficult to sharpen. There are no free lunches.

There is a difference between tough and brittle. A good tough edge will roll and not chip. A poor temper and it will chip - brittle. You see that a lot with D2.

Originally Posted by Tahr

There are some excellent stainless steels that are tough enough for any sort of hunting, and some carbon steels that that don't stain much that are even tougher (3V for instance). And some very tough carbon steels that won't hold a edge.
It is correct to say though that the more stainless a knife steel is in general it is less tough.
The best carbon steels of today are also way better than the old traditional carbon steels - but are more difficult to sharpen. There are no free lunches.

There is a difference between tough and brittle. A good tough edge will roll and not chip. A poor temper and it will chip - brittle. You see that a lot with D2.

Ah, but Bob dozier could make D2 dance...it really does come down to heat treatment a lot there sure are a lot of interesting steels out there these days, one day I would like to get a forge and a cryogenic tank to be able to deal with super steel, in the meantime I still have to find a steel that will match O1 in cost, ability to take an edge and ease of heat treatment, if yiu put enough effort into your heat treatment you can go a long way with a simple steel, maybe not for a dive knife though...

Originally Posted by Shelley

Ah, but Bob dozier could make D2 dance...it really does come down to heat treatment a lot there sure are a lot of interesting steels out there these days, one day I would like to get a forge and a cryogenic tank to be able to deal with super steel, in the meantime I still have to find a steel that will match O1 in cost, ability to take an edge and ease of heat treatment, if yiu put enough effort into your heat treatment you can go a long way with a simple steel, maybe not for a dive knife though...

Dozier, eh. Expensive as hell and a waiting list of years. He was an exception with D2. Sadly.

CPM D2 on the other hand is good stuff.

Originally Posted by Shelley

Ah, but Bob dozier could make D2 dance...it really does come down to heat treatment a lot there sure are a lot of interesting steels out there these days, one day I would like to get a forge and a cryogenic tank to be able to deal with super steel, in the meantime I still have to find a steel that will match O1 in cost, ability to take an edge and ease of heat treatment, if yiu put enough effort into your heat treatment you can go a long way with a simple steel, maybe not for a dive knife though...

Mention of D2 made me think of a CAT D4D I once owned, anyway how would Dozer / Grader grouser strip work as a knife or hatchet steel - that stuff doesnt chip even pushing rocks and old grader blade edge can be had for nothing

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Mention of D2 made me think of a CAT D4D I once owned, anyway how would Dozer / Grader grouser strip work as a knife or hatchet steel - that stuff doesnt chip even pushing rocks and old grader blade edge can be had for nothing

Ive got a KOA in D2, holds a mean edge but was definately chippy running through joints etc, must be at a reasonable hardness. They have a very low angle compound bevel on the Canadian belts knives so I threw a micro bevel on which seemed to help.