Stumbled on this yesterday. I thought at 18min I'd be skipping through bits of it but it was kind of mesmerizing and before I knew it, I'd watched the whole thing.
https://youtu.be/12PgGoT6JeQ
Stumbled on this yesterday. I thought at 18min I'd be skipping through bits of it but it was kind of mesmerizing and before I knew it, I'd watched the whole thing.
https://youtu.be/12PgGoT6JeQ
not sure how that happened
spiderco bombshell, better made than my other spidercp's but Im worried the grip may be to short- time will tell
Beautiful timber, I like your style!
Or you can stay within 300 yards and keep life a lot simpler.
Just finished this small hunting knife.
1075 carbon steel, handle is made from wife's old fruit bowl (stabilized it), brass pins, black G10 liner and old .223 cartridge used for lanyard hole.
Or you can stay within 300 yards and keep life a lot simpler.
Here’s one from the past - a Gerber ‘Big Hunter’ model from the early 1960s. Carbon steel blade, cast-on aluminium handle, and the whole thing spayed with molten stainless steel.
It wasn’t easy to buy a decent knife in N Z in those days - most shops seemed to offer only Solingen, Green River, and cheap, often anonymous makes. I tried various models and wasn’t too impressed with any of them. If you knew somebody in the meat trade you might, with a lot of difficulty, be able to wrangle Victorinox knives, which were great, but you couldn’t buy them over the counter.
I obtained this Gerber in Australia, and have used it ever since. The handle isn’t as slippery as might be expected, even when wet and bloody, but I used to wrap it with cloth-backed friction tape if I was expecting to encounter sub-zero temperatures, to make sure my skin didn’t stick to it!
Tanto Style knife from a file, really fun to make these things from old stuff lying around the garage ....
Scabbard just needs more sanding and then oiling
On our never ending journey for better and better equipment performance (often born out of clever marketing) we tend to move further and further away from the foundations that forged todays norms, and we spend exorbitant money chasing some elusive 'element' that we feel incomplete without, only to feel disappointed and betrayed when we find that the gap between what we had and what we were chasing wasn't actually as big as we were lead to believe .............. and, that what we had in the first place, was actually pretty darn good, and that we often have to give up more than we actually gained in order to achieve our narrowly focused goal. (I think I need a beer now).
A case in point - knife steel. We all want that one knife that does it all, from filleting a fish to skinning a deer, from peeling an apple to battening some kindling, small enough to fit in your pocket but still big enough to stick a pig through the heart, that never goes rusty, and never needs sharpening.
In our pursuit of this phantom knife, knife steels have progressed from good old plain carbon to the latest and greatest (and expensive) high alloy super steels - tougher, stronger and shiner than ever before!
Being a keen knife user, I have my fair share of expensive hyper performance cutting implements (tools not toys), all bought with a focus on something I thought I might be missing out on.
But recently, having dabbled in the field of home made knife making, and not having the skills or experience or equipment to attempt to sculpt a blade from anything other than plain Jane high carbon steel (1075 and 1084), I have discovered that I have actually been missing out!!
I have never personally owned a plain carbon steel knife before I made one. In my naivety I saw my dad's plain carbon skinning and boning knives as nothing but high maintenance.
But that's all changed.
The first knife I ever made was made as a Christmas present for my brother.
The second was an experiment in making my first knife with a hidden tang handle. When I did the design and made the knife I was anticipating hanging the thing on the wall. It was deliberately big, with a bowie type blade that I thought would be impractical and not something that I would typically take hunting. Once finished, and since it was custom shaped to fit my hand, I decided to 'abuse' it by using it to cut open animal joints and split briskets in an effort to punish the steel and see how good my heat treat was, and to save my expensive super steel blades from having to endure these tasks (hang on a minute, isn't that why you justified buying these expensive blades in the first place - because they would handle the abuse that others wouldn't??).
This blade has blown all of my expectations completely out of the water over the past 18 months. It has been used to do all the tasks that I am too scared to use my expensive blades for, and not skipped a beat. Its never chipped, bent, buckled or snapped. The original edge is still intact, and yea, it needs a tickle up on the stone and strop a bit more than my 3V blades, but none of my 3V's have ever done the work that my ??? (just realised, my blade needs a name ....) has been put through.
And, the biggest surprise of all to me, is that the 'as heat treated' finish of the blade is actually really corrosion resistant! A wash in hot soapy water, towel dried, and then left to air out of its sheath. I don't even oil it!
My home made ?(insert name here)? blade is now my go to knife for processing deer, and its made out of the very non-super high carbon 1075 steel - go figure .........
So, to all who are chasing super steel performance, whilst the advantages of super steels over plain carbon steels are proven, in the practical world the difference from a properly heat treated plain carbon steel is smaller than you might think.
To all of you out there that have never had a go at making a knife, have a crack! If you correctly follow the basic principles of a good heat treat using plain carbon steel you might be surprised by what you end up with. It might be your new best hunting buddy.
PS. well done to all those who have had a crack and have posted their results in this thread - keep it up!
nicely written and right to the heart of the matter most steels are great WITH A PROPER HEAT TREAT .
I'd choose any carbon steel with a decent heat treat over the more brittle stainless steels for a good hunting knife
Or you can stay within 300 yards and keep life a lot simpler.
I got an order for a large kitchen knife a few months back and thought if I make one then I should make three......as you do.
This isn't the ordered knife but I wanted to design an east meets west style knife ( my version anyway ) and this is the end result.
Just over 8 inch blade, Teal and fire coral dual layer Micarta from the states. G10 liners and carbon pins, full flat grind 14c28n stainless.
Really pushing my little 1 x 30 grinder to it's limit but we got there.
It maybe available if someone's a keen cook or wants something cool for the wife for Christmas.
PM me if interested as it will be advertised elsewhere.
Another large kitchen knife nearly finished so I will post the photo's when finished.
There are some excellent stainless steels that are tough enough for any sort of hunting, and some carbon steels that that don't stain much that are even tougher (3V for instance). And some very tough carbon steels that won't hold a edge.
It is correct to say though that the more stainless a knife steel is in general it is less tough.
The best carbon steels of today are also way better than the old traditional carbon steels - but are more difficult to sharpen. There are no free lunches.
There is a difference between tough and brittle. A good tough edge will roll and not chip. A poor temper and it will chip - brittle. You see that a lot with D2.
@viper
Nice design!
What is the thickness and width for this chef knife?
Or you can stay within 300 yards and keep life a lot simpler.
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