Thread: Show me your knives

Just watched yr vid,interesting.
In Alaskan tv show,guy with wife n 4 daughters.When they shoot 3 or 4 caribou.Wife cuts up caribou with knife same as yr fish filter,but with no handle.Just holds back of big blade.She will cut up 3 or 4 caribou this way.And she is very good at it.

Originally Posted by Shearer

Yeah. I have seen a few videos now of these being used so was interested to try one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rTMdQzsm6U

Yeah interesting. I use a deba for most of my filleting (one on the right). They make for super clean fillets cuts. Single bevel and get scary sharp

You'll work it out but as they make the initial cut with the belly rather than the tip they don't work as well on large scaled fish like snapper or kahawai. Work sweet on finer scaled fish like greenbone or kingy.

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@Shearer, definitely an interesting blade. Had never seen anything like that before, but the guy in that video made clean work of that salmon. Looking forward to reports of how your one go. Nice work!

I put a couple of Reindyr antler grips on some fairly old blades this afternoon.

Originally Posted by Pixie Z

@Shearer, definitely an interesting blade. Had never seen anything like that before, but the guy in that video made clean work of that salmon. Looking forward to reports of how your one go. Nice work!

Thanks @Pixie Z. Not my work though. This is a bought one.

Latest, still cooking

Nakiri in W2. Now time for some hunters.....

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Finished last weekend, Viper model hunter, 1095 high carbon steel. Stabilized Rimu handle, G10 pins with orange and black liners.
Full grind and forced patina.

Originally Posted by viper

Attachment 178096
Finished last weekend, Viper model hunter, 1095 high carbon steel. Stabilized Rimu handle, G10 pins with orange and black liners.
Full grind and forced patina.

Your skill is admirable.

Originally Posted by viper

Attachment 178096
Finished last weekend, Viper model hunter, 1095 high carbon steel. Stabilized Rimu handle, G10 pins with orange and black liners.
Full grind and forced patina.

@viper, assuming that you are making these to order, are your customers specifically asking for plane carbon steel?
I just find in interesting, having chased 'corrosion resistance' most of my hinting life, until I actually made a couple of knives for my own use out of plain carbon, and am still using them now over some very expensive super steel knives in the inventory.

It was the basis for my post https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ml#post1079491

@hotbarrels, it's an interesting question , I have my own thoughts on knives and materials and design.
I think of them as functional art , first and fore most they have to do what they are designed to do , CUT, but I like them to look nice too.
As for the steel choice it goes back to the function , I like a steel that holds a great edge but also that can be re-sharpened in the field without amazing tools or skills.
All knives go blunt so all knives need to be sharpened. There are some very skilled hunters with great skills for sharpening a knife but there are also plenty who have average to poor skills and need a steel they can get a result from.
High carbon steels and some stainless offer these characteristics and like you have mentioned you enjoy them as a working blade.
I don't offer the super steels and really I don't have any great interest in them as I like to make knives that work for people in the kitchen or field.
The old steels like 1075 , 1084, 1095 , 01 tool steel etc have been around many years and for good reason.
I would think there are a lot of blunt super steel knives out there that the owners will never get sharp again .

Originally Posted by viper

@hotbarrels, it's an interesting question , I have my own thoughts on knives and materials and design.
I think of them as functional art , first and fore most they have to do what they are designed to do , CUT, but I like them to look nice too.
As for the steel choice it goes back to the function , I like a steel that holds a great edge but also that can be re-sharpened in the field without amazing tools or skills.
All knives go blunt so all knives need to be sharpened. There are some very skilled hunters with great skills for sharpening a knife but there are also plenty who have average to poor skills and need a steel they can get a result from.
High carbon steels and some stainless offer these characteristics and like you have mentioned you enjoy them as a working blade.
I don't offer the super steels and really I don't have any great interest in them as I like to make knives that work for people in the kitchen or field.
The old steels like 1075 , 1084, 1095 , 01 tool steel etc have been around many years and for good reason.
I would think there are a lot of blunt super steel knives out there that the owners will never get sharp again .

The 10xx series of steel (plus 01) are certainly up there for good using blades although lately I have been looking at the 80CRV2 (an improved 1084 with chromium and vandium in place of the O1)that has been getting very good reviews I am also a believer in the carbon steels for field use with a cryo treated NitroV stainless for kitchen use where stainless is prefered otherwise it is the 10XX series.

Originally Posted by hotbarrels

@viper, assuming that you are making these to order, are your customers specifically asking for plane carbon steel?
I just find in interesting, having chased 'corrosion resistance' most of my hinting life, until I actually made a couple of knives for my own use out of plain carbon, and am still using them now over some very expensive super steel knives in the inventory.

It was the basis for my post https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ml#post1079491

I think part of the problem with simple carbon steels is they are all run way to soft in factory knives, so people use them and think, man this has shit edge retention. Lots of the factory knives are like rc56, which is soft as. The same steel at 60rc will have twice the edge retention and still be easy enough to sharpen. Custom knife makers close the gap between simple steels and complex alloyed steels by running the knife harder and having better geometry.

The point about sharpening is also very valid, your average Jo is more likely to be able to sharpen to apex on a simple carbon than they are on a stainless, let alone one of the high vanadium beasts.

The super steels are better suited to people who know knives and can sharpen things properly.

There is also a nice middle ground with fine carbide stainless in the aebl nitro v up to cpm154/rwl 30 realm that have many of the sharpening characteristics of simple carbons but still offer corrosion resistance and improved edge retention

A quick question to all our forum knife gurus, im playing with the idea of buying a Condor knife blank off Blademasters and making NZ hardwood scales for it.....

as a 'virgin' which of these three would you suggest, Matai, Totara or Rimu......as regards filing, sanding and the finish at the end....if i dont "bin it'....

I must agree about the ability to sharpen and understanding angles, my aebl knive is at 17%, shaves like a razor, my kershaw steel will not take 17% it will chip ( very minuscule chips) so is 20% shaves, my 01 steel knife is at 25% shaves. You can make any knife razor sharp if you get the angle right and finish on a strop. As for carbon steel opinel says it all great knives.