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Thread: show us your chainsaws

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by No.3 View Post
    "Hydraulic double end splitter". I dunno, the internet appears to have badly damaged my mind...
    https://www.taskpower.co.nz/collecti...plit-fire-3403

    Yer, even the name 'splitfire' can give the wrong connotation

  2. #2
    Member norsk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR500 View Post
    https://www.taskpower.co.nz/collecti...plit-fire-3403

    Yer, even the name 'splitfire' can give the wrong connotation
    That looks good.
    "Sixty percent of the time,it works every time"

  3. #3
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    Yip.

    Needs good hydraulic flow to really shine. My 110hp tractor needs to be at 1300-1400 rpm, and with 3-4 people (each with their own inviolable task!!!) its a cube in 10-15 minutes.

    The video linked to that website doesn't give any credence to how efficient this splitter can be.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR500 View Post
    Yip.

    Needs good hydraulic flow to really shine. My 110hp tractor needs to be at 1300-1400 rpm, and with 3-4 people (each with their own inviolable task!!!) its a cube in 10-15 minutes.

    The video linked to that website doesn't give any credence to how efficient this splitter can be.
    And good hydraulic cooling I'd say too...

  5. #5
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    Earlier this arvo....



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  6. #6
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    Don't forget proper technique.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5dUDfqeql0&t=1s

  7. #7
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    Brought a MS460 that was the unfortunate recipient of a squashing late last year. Turned up with a replacement crankcase, handle/tank, gasket set and covers (Holzzforma) and in more individual pieces than I could shake a stick at. Finally got it cleaned up and back together night before last - first one I've reassembled that I didn't strip myself and also the first time I've used the chinese crankcase and bits. A challenge...

    The crankcase isn't as 'nice' as the Stihl ones obviously - the paint isn't as neat and the machining of surfaces isn't as clean. It went together OK all things considered. Filled it with fluids and gave it a go from dead dry on start settings - 7-8 pulls to the cough and a couple more on high speed idle and it's running happy as. Just need to find some timber to sink it into and the other bit is some dry weather!!!

  8. #8
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    Question for the experts: How would 25" bar go on my MS390? I'm thinking that with a skip chain it would be alright? Currently run a 20" bar and there are times when a bit more be good.
    "The generalist hunter and angler is a well-fed mofo" - Steven Rinella

  9. #9
    MSL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dama dama View Post
    Question for the experts: How would 25" bar go on my MS390? I'm thinking that with a skip chain it would be alright? Currently run a 20" bar and there are times when a bit more be good.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dama dama View Post
    Question for the experts: How would 25" bar go on my MS390? I'm thinking that with a skip chain it would be alright? Currently run a 20" bar and there are times when a bit more be good.
    Factory specs list bar lengths of 16”-25”, so should be fine.


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  10. #10
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    One possible issue is running out of bar lube on the long bars - some of these oiler's were a little anemic. You'll only know if you try it though.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by No.3 View Post
    One possible issue is running out of bar lube on the long bars - some of these oiler's were a little anemic. You'll only know if you try it though.
    Ok thanks.
    "The generalist hunter and angler is a well-fed mofo" - Steven Rinella

  12. #12
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    if you run thinner oil...eg car motor oil instead of chainbar lube...it will spit it out much faster...... the thinner the faster,just be aware it will probably..OK it WILL MOST LIKELY leak it out if you leave it sitting ,so put on block of wood etc in garage if leaving the thin oil in.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  13. #13
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    Proper bar oil has stuff added to it that makes it stick to the chain motor oil don't. As the oiler is on the top of the bar light oil mostly gets flung off the chain at the tip. You can get away with it on a short bar but not a big one. Burnt bar and buggered chain make proper oil seem cheap.

  14. #14
    MSL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    Proper bar oil has stuff added to it that makes it stick to the chain motor oil don't. As the oiler is on the top of the bar light oil mostly gets flung off the chain at the tip. You can get away with it on a short bar but not a big one. Burnt bar and buggered chain make proper oil seem cheap.
    At $3.50 a litre, I’m happy to stick with proper bar oil.


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  15. #15
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    so mix the two...my point is,if thick oil isnt coming out fast enough,use thinner oil...mates work saw (smaller stihl) had this issue,it would do half tank oil to full tank gas..if we fed it thinner oil it used closer to 1;1
    75/15/10 black powder matters

 

 

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