Thread: show us your chainsaws

@ Dama dama. On adjustable oil feed Stihls there is a stopper pin that can be knocked in to give a bit more screw adjustment on the oiler. Common mod when fitting longer bars, has this been done on saw in question?

Originally Posted by woods223

@ Dama dama. On adjustable oil feed Stihls there is a stopper pin that can be knocked in to give a bit more screw adjustment on the oiler. Common mod when fitting longer bars, has this been done on saw in question?

Some can get away with this, some it doesn't provide much. Generally the newer split case 'professional' series saws do this, but some of them don't. I have a MS460 I've just rebuilt with the opposite issue, can't turn it down and it pisses bar oil out and drowns the 20" bar it's currently wearing. But that's ok, oils natural haha.

Interestingly enough and a bit off topic, I noticed that this saw has an odd issue - if you put the saw down it drops revs. Pick it up and it revs up... Had me scratching my nut a bit - passes all the checks apart from revs up when you pick it up. Then I grabbed the top cover and forced the two halves (handle and engine) apart and together while it was idling in the air and could make it rev up and down... Think it has a sealing issue in either the impulse line or the manifold boot. Will replace them and see what that does - still a very odd presentation of the air leak / leaning out fault. Holds idle and tunes perfectly on the ground, pick it up and it leans and revs out. I think the issue is on the ground it's sitting on the handle and the dog set (with chain roller) which pushes the handle and engine section together, pick it up and the two halves pull apart onto the rubbers. Running it into timber and the same as on the ground, idles and tunes fine. Had me scratching my head, I can assure you haha...

so...using my above theory..find a thicker chainbar oil for it...... add more sticky LOL.... its worth a crack Nigel.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

so...using my above theory..find a thicker chainbar oil for it...... add more sticky LOL.... its worth a crack Nigel.

Probably work. Just can't be arsed running two types of bar oil... Its not emptying the tank before the fuel runs out, so acceptable in use just makes a bit of a puddle under the clutch cover. On the whole, for a rebuild of a squashed saw it's pretty bloody cheap chopping. Even if I have to replace the manifold and impulse line! Never struck that sort of issue before, passes the static tests including the fairly brutal 'spray CRC all over it and see if it dies test' but movement between the halves must be affecting the sealing of either the impulse line or the manifold and causing the slight lean out. Odd. I have a spare used boot and impulse line, but for the effort of taking things apart to change out I'd rather see a new set in there and then you know. Also need to replace the stupid flippy cap orings. Hate those things!

on chainbar oil....for many many years I used ...used motor oil...shocking I know,but it cost me nothing.... then got all flash and got cleaner used tractor oil,from diffs etc.... have mixed in a bit of the sticky stuff to make it behave better...for the record Ive never burnt a bar...Mrs came close on the bench saw cutting blue gum. have sorted that wee issue,the bullnose blade wont be helping it either.
fellas down here were selling 20litr drums reasonably cheaply so I am using good stuff now.
IM TOLD the stuff they drain out of pivot irrigators is primo as is very similar to chain bar lube.... it should still be clean as they dont do anything fast LOL.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

on chainbar oil....for many many years I used ...used motor oil...shocking I know,but it cost me nothing.... then got all flash and got cleaner used tractor oil,from diffs etc.... have mixed in a bit of the sticky stuff to make it behave better...for the record Ive never burnt a bar...Mrs came close on the bench saw cutting blue gum. have sorted that wee issue,the bullnose blade wont be helping it either.
fellas down here were selling 20litr drums reasonably cheaply so I am using good stuff now.
IM TOLD the stuff they drain out of pivot irrigators is primo as is very similar to chain bar lube.... it should still be clean as they dont do anything fast LOL.

Yep a basic gear oil. Nice and sticky enough tack to stick to gears circulating will make for a very effective bar lube. Only thing with that is it has a fairly robust additive pack that is quite persistent in the environment - and also it might be so sticky that it gets cloggy with wood dust fairly quickly. There was a guy in Tok selling 200's of waste gear oil out of trucks - he'd get a couple a week. If I recall he was doing them for around twice what the oil recovery types were offering back then, so a little under half price of the cheap bar oil. A significant saving if you were out of the eye line of the greenies (or repackaged it into Stihl or Husqy bottles haha).

I ran into a bit of a curly issue with those people at one site, got a 5L of bar oil from Repco on the way through along with some other parts - it was the Aussie outfit's offering and comes with a spiffy blue dye. The blue dye is great for seeing if your bar is getting enough oil, but apparently the envirocompliance types can see it too and that makes it verboten!!! Had to go and drive back to the nearest town and the only thing I could get at that time was a bottle of 20w50. But it was 'invisible'.

Did some work in the Waikato river many moons ago with our Engineer divers using chainsaws. Had to change all the hydraulic oil in the power packs to special vege based oil to keep everyone happy, as there's a small bleed circuit in the saw to lube the chain.

Originally Posted by XR500

Did some work in the Waikato river many moons ago with our Engineer divers using chainsaws. Had to change all the hydraulic oil in the power packs to special vege based oil to keep everyone happy, as there's a small bleed circuit in the saw to lube the chain.

Yep, the good old rapeseed oil. Twice the price for half as good! One thing about using hydraulic saws under water is the water effectively lubricates the bar to a certain extent so you can get away with much less oil on the bar and chain. Rapeseed oil tends to pick up a lot more moisture from the outside too, hard on filters and if there's a leaky connection as soon as you make the tool cold water pressure if its higher than line pressure can get into the hoses...

We only had one bar. A bloody great 3 foot one. Were chopping off hardwood piles at Shelly Bay some time ago and the bar vibrated so much it that it became attractive to all the fish (for some odd reason). Fish would go in for a look and PooF! instant berley. Next fish: "ohh, looks yummy.munch munch. Ohh, whats that noise? I'll swim over and.." PooF! Rinse and repeat for an hour and a half.

But we had to change the chains an awful lot. Aussie hardwood and barnacles are pretty hard on Chainsaw teeth

Originally Posted by XR500

We only had one bar. A bloody great 3 foot one. Were chopping off hardwood piles at Shelly Bay some time ago and the bar vibrated so much it that it became attractive to all the fish (for some odd reason). Fish would go in for a look and PooF! instant berley. Next fish: "ohh, looks yummy.munch munch. Ohh, whats that noise? I'll swim over and.." PooF! Rinse and repeat for an hour and a half.

But we had to change the chains an awful lot. Aussie hardwood and barnacles are pretty hard on Chainsaw teeth

There was a great episode on that NZ housing programme of that couple from auckland who built a home at Mangawahi with wood reclaimed from the old Welligton wharf. Awesome timber.

Originally Posted by TeRei

There was a great episode on that NZ housing programme of that couple from auckland who built a home at Mangawahi with wood reclaimed from the old Welligton wharf. Awesome timber.

I used some reclaimed piles from Wollooollo wharf when I was working Sydney . Horrible stuff to work with , one was actually hollow in the middle . The boss wanted me to cut slabs out of it with a 60cc saw.

Originally Posted by paremata

I used some reclaimed piles from Wollooollo wharf when I was working Sydney . Horrible stuff to work with , one was actually hollow in the middle . The boss wanted me to cut slabs out of it with a 60cc saw.

"Mate, tell em he's dreaming!"

Originally Posted by XR500

We only had one bar. A bloody great 3 foot one. Were chopping off hardwood piles at Shelly Bay some time ago and the bar vibrated so much it that it became attractive to all the fish (for some odd reason). Fish would go in for a look and PooF! instant berley. Next fish: "ohh, looks yummy.munch munch. Ohh, whats that noise? I'll swim over and.." PooF! Rinse and repeat for an hour and a half.

But we had to change the chains an awful lot. Aussie hardwood and barnacles are pretty hard on Chainsaw teeth

Ha yeah, bloody Ironbark timber. That stuff was brutal on chains, I went through three on one pile once. Not recoverable, teeth tips were pealed up and back and chains were written off! Funny with the fish - they do weird things with vibrations if it's on the frequency that triggers their lateral line feeding instinct they chuck caution to the wind an in boots and all followed by munch.

I don't think the Mangawhai place would have been made with Ironbark - I pity the builder that took that job on. You'd struggle to stick a screw into it and nails - forget it!

Chainsaw chain art

https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-f...3979197267.htm

Yikes. That's not approved by your average lady is it...

Got to the bottom of that weird revving up issue on the ms460 - impulse line at the crank case end had gone very slightly hard. It wasn't until you got it next to another could you tell the difference... Pesky little failure of a rather vital bit!