Thread: show us your chainsaws

Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

So a question for you saw guys I have a Stihl 460 running a 24"and semi chisel chain.
So when cutting it bogs down and stops like the clutch engauges.
If you know what I mean so have to back out to get chain to spin again then back into it.
So is the clutch getting worn or something else.
Seems worse on a sharp chain as it bites in more.

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

I dig the dogs in and don't force it too hard,just let it chew its way through,if force it too hard yip it will big down.the 084 is only saw I've used that won't do that,pure horsepower.

Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

So a question for you saw guys I have a Stihl 460 running a 24"and semi chisel chain.
So when cutting it bogs down and stops like the clutch engauges.
If you know what I mean so have to back out to get chain to spin again then back into it.
So is the clutch getting worn or something else.
Seems worse on a sharp chain as it bites in more.

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

Does it feel down on power ?
So
Clean air filter
Remove spark arrestor screen from exhaust outlet

Power feels normal but chain stops ?
So
Don’t force the cut
Depth gauges (rakers) too low on chain

Does it cut smooth with no vibration or is it vibrating badly in the cut ?

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Does it feel down on power ?
So
Clean air filter
Remove spark arrestor screen from exhaust outlet

Power feels normal but chain stops ?
So
Don’t force the cut
Depth gauges (rakers) too low on chain

Does it cut smooth with no vibration or is it vibrating badly in the cut ?

Some chains the rakes are cut too low as it real bites and vibrates.
Air cleaner is clean and revs out fully.
At times I probably just push it too hard seems worse at the start of a cut.

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

you know a 700hp truck will pig jump a bit if you ask it to pull 60ton up a hill too,if you miss a gear it will bog down and you will be forced to drop down gears to bottom cog and crawl up hill....
if you have,as you say changed chain till its trying to rip into it...yip it will bog down,slow down ,dig them dogs in and just let it cut,they love lots of revs as havent huge horse power to do job... its all a balancing act.

Your rakers being too low is the problem 100%


To save a chain with rakers too low file every tooth until the rakers are only 20 thou (.5mm) maximum, below the top plate

And to remove the vibration every cutting tooth needs to be exactly the same height/length

Best done with a bench mounted chain grinder

Or measure all the teeth and sharpen to the shortest one

The vibration will be gone and it will actually cut faster

Rakers too low is similar to a 5 ton digger with a 30 ton bucket

You actually slow it down as the bite into the wood is too large for the saws power to maintain a high chain speed

And vibration lifts random teeth out of the cut also slowing the cut down

A well sharpened saw chain needs consideration for the size powerhead your using

you said same thing I did...just differently LOL and much betterer too.

Awesome thanks guys I have a Jolly bench grinder so I'll cut them all back.
I new some rakes were too low so will sort that first.

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

another way to put it..try riding your mountainbike up hill in top gear........

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

another way to put it..try riding your mountainbike up hill in top gear........

Haha tried that doesn't work very well

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

Awesome thanks guys I have a Jolly bench grinder so I'll cut them all back.
I new some rakes were too low so will sort that first.

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

Your well prepared then

Your top plate angle can be anywhere from 25-35 degrees and you won’t notice any difference

But your down angle is able to make quite a difference to engine load, 60 degrees down angle is comfortable for midsize saws and 55 and 50 degrees will suit high hp saws as the closer to 50 degrees down angle the more aggressive the chain self feeds

At any down angle rakers can’t go lower than .5 of a mm below the top plate or the chain gets “grabby” and vibrates and slows down

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

The 562XP are auto tune

Attachment 219025

Yep they are so open to ideas on how you get them "auto tuned".
Or do they pretty much auto tune for full noise.
Only an issue when on stuff that is just a bit too big for my smaller stihl.


Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Your well prepared then

Your top plate angle can be anywhere from 25-35 degrees and you won’t notice any difference

But your down angle is able to make quite a difference to engine load, 60 degrees down angle is comfortable for midsize saws and 55 and 50 degrees will suit high hp saws as the closer to 50 degrees down angle the more aggressive the chain self feeds

At any down angle rakers can’t go lower than .5 of a mm below the top plate or the chain gets “grabby” and vibrates and slows down


Attachment 219058

Thanks again what is the best way to cut your rakes to all the same height, with the likes of the jolly

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

Thanks again what is the best way to cut your rakes to all the same height, with the likes of the jolly

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

When I'm recovering a chain I actually do them by hand - I've had chains written off by taking them to people to get them all returned to the same length and they end up overheating and bluing every other tooth. If you know what you're about and ensure you don't overheat the cutters it's fine but I find no real advantage to doing it by hand with a guided file (Oregon jig thing works quite well). Stuffing the temper can go two ways, either soft cutters which sucks or so hard you can't file the damn things and they need to be ground again early to get them sharp.

Unless a chain is really off spec, can fully sort a 3/8 72 link in about 10-15 minutes. I made a little tensioning doohickey to tighten the chain without the powerhead on the bar - that really helps. I had a ripping chain that clipped something hard that we didn't want, and filed that back to a standard 25deg and that took about 20 minutes to recut and even up the top plates and set the rakers.

Originally Posted by erniec

Question for you guys out there.
I have a Husqvarna 562XP.
Good saw but I have an issue, it idles ok in the time it takes to position for next ring etc and you are still holding it.
But will not idle for long when you have to move a bit of stuff and place it on the ground.
No problem on big stuff giving it death and cut until you stop it or you run out off fuel.
Any suggestions/tricks to get it to idle for longer/better.
Thanks Owen

Air filter, exhaust gauze too. Check both of them and make sure there's no weird restrictions stopping it breathing.

Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

So a question for you saw guys I have a Stihl 460 running a 24"and semi chisel chain.
So when cutting it bogs down and stops like the clutch engauges.
If you know what I mean so have to back out to get chain to spin again then back into it.
So is the clutch getting worn or something else.
Seems worse on a sharp chain as it bites in more.

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

Get it sorted, don't keep using it like that as it can cause things to go south in other places. What has been suggested so far is a good place to start, but if you set the chain up correctly and it still worn't play it could be a few other more oddball things causing it too.