Thread: Show us your lights

Originally Posted by seano

I have this spotlight as well,is H.I.D and kicks ass also but chews the batteries something chronic ... my mrs thinks its overkill,and every time I bring it out ,the she says "You off hunting Elephants again?" LOL
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her: You out hunting elephants again??

You: How many elephants have you seen in the past month?

Her: none

You: You are welcome.

Some notes from my experience for Maxtoch SN and other led torch owners...

Batteries

After using a variety of 18650 batts over 3-4 years, the Trustfire 3000 mAh (genuine 2500-2600) are good. They have enough milliamps to give XML grunters quite good runtimes. Also good value at $8US+ from Fastways or $10+ from DX. Issues are that they will wear out with heavy use over time. Two sets of mine have broken down after 3 years solid use - so just bear this in mind. They fit all torches well.

The Panasonic 3100s I have - after a few recharges - give better runtimes. I run a dedomed and tweaked Maxi SN6X-2 at 177k lux and with Trustfires its around 55 minutes runtime, but with Panasonics its 81 minutes. I also have a Maxtoch SN6X-2X - the new limited edition bighead one - running at a huge 230k lux and at this level of tune it runs for 47 mins with Trustfires and 73 mins with Panasonics on full noise. This is a test bunny light.

Panasonics are near twice the price but better runtimes and likely will last longer. Key issue is their extra length which affects alot of torch makes - they may not switch on/off properly when tailcap screwed on. To cope with this you can loosen torch barrel from head a turn or so, and/or leave tailcap a turn looser.


Troubleshooting

I have found the Maxis very reliable - a few tips to keeping them 100%:

* When you get your new SN make sure the switch is screwed into tailcap firmly.
* Do not apply any oils/greases to torch threads - the threads are contact points and almost all oils, greases etc are non conductive. Don't use graphite grease - does not work well either and also leads to switch on/off problems.
* Do use if necessary a little CRC, or graphite powder. They are conductive and will help on/off reliability.
* If you start to get on/off or mode change issues - check first that your tailcap switch is still firmly in place.
* Then check your batts are still good. Swap in some known good or new batts and test torch with those. Batteries can break down, and so too can chargers - leaving you with only part charged batts.
* If issues continue, take off tailcap and clean threads in cap and on torch tube - remove any build up of crap. Then clean threads thoroughly with a little CRC and dry. Then get some fine wet and dry paper and run it over threads in tailcap and on tube. Then run it into and round the thread grooves on tube to recreate good contact.
* Do this periodically to keep good contact

I've found these basic steps solve almost all aparent 'switch' issues. Hope that helps...please add any other ideas...

Originally Posted by sneeze

I been using this on .22 and .243 and it works well. Down side is having it low mounted there is some flare coming off the centerfire suppressor. Im sorting a mount that fits under the bipod,gave it a run last night, so far so good. That dedomed sn was very shootable at 275yds last night.

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Hi Sneeze
Do you find the torch heats up the scope much? got one similar a while back & guy who got it for me suggested not to mount on scope as the heat may damage the scope found it hard to believe really, seen yours thought Id ask.

Bump this thread should be made a sticky

we had problems at work on nightshift ,with the crap torches the firm supplies-couldnt always see if people were breathing.
talked the boss into me getting a couple off Gadget and problem solved.so much so other staff are asking for them.bloody excelent ,iwouldnt be without mine.

Oh yes you do !!
You must be sponsored by Eveready?

Originally Posted by Deadeyez

I do not have a problem

honest

and sad to say that there are a few more since those photos were taken.