Thread: That stoopid knife question

We make thicker blades to withstand stress, ill stand behind my knives and if you break it in normal use I will fix or replace it replace it, my thicker knives will handle wood processing as well as hunting applications.

A bit simplistic, crucible steels powder their material and then bind them idea is to remove voids in the process of formation, a lot of early 154 steel suffererd from voids but the com stuff does not.
Stainless steels must contain at least 13% chromium, chromium is the hardest metal known, add chromium you add hardness to your metal (not Rockwell), but to get a good edge you need small secondary carbides, chromium interferes with this a little x like putting sheep and goats into the same paddock, they tend to seperate out, the sheep is the iron, the chromium is the goats and the paddock is the blade, because of this seperate one in the piece of crystal steel, which occurs in the heat treatment process (especially the cooling), the stainless has pro carbide formation but is still hard (hard to sharpen, hard to wear and will chip as there are big carbides which get knocked off the edge).

D2, if heat treated properly, is fantastic, look at Bob Dozier Knives , heat reatment is key.

Don’t mistake tool steel with 10xx! In the test I have seen O1 outperforms most edges in edge retention when chopping cardboard, but I have not tested it myself, or made the knifes, just read the results, not a massive amount of steels either.

Remember a tool steel is made for cutting, often metal, with maximum efficiency and minimum wear, it’s a matter of economics, that translates into a good metal for cutting meat.

And yes, O1 is easy to shape when it’s annealed, that does not make it a bad knife steel.

Shelley