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Thread: New fly fisher - reel advice

  1. #16
    HOO
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    Just pulled it apart and you can take the ratchet part out or rather move it to the side but it means the reel flows free which I can’t see being helpful - do fly reels generally have an adjustable drag like a spin reel?
    Apologies for all the simple questions but fly fishing seems to be over complicated if you keep looking online. I’m fairly certain it isn’t as convoluted as the YouTube videos tend to make it


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  2. #17
    MB
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    You don't need a mechanical drag, you can use the palm of your hand.
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  3. #18
    Lovin Facebook for hunters kiwijames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MB View Post
    You don't need a mechanical drag, you can use the palm of your hand.
    Nope. The drag is pretty important. Possibly the reel is in reverse as many can allow the handedness (not sure that's a real word) set the right way around. Some of the cheap reels do just sound shit. Being graphite will only makemit sound more shit. Palming a reel is a good way to manage a fish but drag just helps keep everything tidy. Shakespeare were a good English brand but I think they went downhill.
    Bol Tackshin likes this.
    The range of what we think and do is limited by what we fail to notice. And because we fail to notice that we fail to notice, there is little we can do to change; until we notice how failing to notice shapes our thoughts and deeds

  4. #19
    MB
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwijames View Post
    Nope. The drag is pretty important. Possibly the reel is in reverse as many can allow the handedness (not sure that's a real word) set the right way around. Some of the cheap reels do just sound shit. Being graphite will only makemit sound more shit. Palming a reel is a good way to manage a fish but drag just helps keep everything tidy. Shakespeare were a good English brand but I think they went downhill.
    Don't think I even saw a fly reel with a drag in my early years. My current fly reel doesn't have a drag. It's a Loop, albeit very old. As someone else said, it's just a line storage device. If I was chasing kingfish or GTs, I'd want a bloody good drag, otherwise, not bothered. Are modern fly reels so smooth that you risk an overrun?

  5. #20
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    welcome to the house of pain ( wallet that is ) that is fly fishing-- reel just holds line -- you do not need a good drag your palm of hand will do that - do get good quality line - if you get serious you may need several set ups depending on river lake etc the house of pain in the quest for the trout

  6. #21
    HOO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry the hunter View Post
    welcome to the house of pain ( wallet that is ) that is fly fishing-- reel just holds line -- you do not need a good drag your palm of hand will do that - do get good quality line - if you get serious you may need several set ups depending on river lake etc the house of pain in the quest for the trout
    I mainly fish the middle reaches of the Wairau in Marlborough as it is 1km from my doorstep - it seems to be a pretty mixed river as far as lots of open braided areas but also nice sneaky side creeks that are slow and shallow with nice pools - I see a lot of fish and have mixed results with spinning and have been close to getting some fish to take my flies in the slower side creeks. Just looking to up my game a bit. I’m really close to some pretty amazing rivers - pelorus, branch, leatham, rai, goulter and Nelson lakes areas so just wanting to get a set up that kind of covers my bases. Still trying to get my head around what all the numbers mean weight wise for all the lines, rods, reels etc like I said I’m pretty new to it all. I’d rather not have too many setups due to the wallet pain - the wife is already wondering why I have to keep spending money on lures I’ve already bought - doesn’t quite get why I keep losing them. But the kids are starting to show an interest so I’d rather get a bit better before I start showing them how not to catch fish


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  7. #22
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  8. #23
    Ned
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    The only time I use the drag on my fly reel is so I can strip lots of line off the reel quickly without it over spooling. For playing a fish, just the palm of your hand.
    A good quality line can compensate a bit for a cheap rod. One that glides nicely through the guides, has a well balanced profile and doesn't have line memory which will (a) slow down the line shooting through the guides and (b) be really annoying on the water.
    A good quality rod can't make a cheap line perform though.
    I learnt quickly to not skimp on buying a cheap flyline. You'll just end up wanting to chuck it and get something decent. Giving it a clean (there's a few good products to use, but just a clean damp cloth to wipe it through is good), not leaving it on the reel with nylon leader wound tightly on top of it, not left in the sun at home or in the car etc. A good line should last years.
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry the hunter View Post
    welcome to the house of pain ( wallet that is ) that is fly fishing-- reel just holds line -- you do not need a good drag your palm of hand will do that - do get good quality line - if you get serious you may need several set ups ...
    Wot 'Barry the hunter' said.

    As it happens, I'm preparing for the winter season and I thought 'why not have a different set up for each rod?'

    In the past I've had two spools for each reel, 1 floating line and 1 sinking line. A 5/6 rod, a 7 rod, a 9 rod and a 10 rod.

    So 8 spools, 4 reels and 4 rods. I end spending more time, swapping rods and reels and flies on the shore, than fishing...

    So this year it's going to be:

    5/6 rod, floating line, with dry fly and nymph dropper, for small waters.

    7 rod, floating line, for all other dry fly work, also with nymph dropper.

    9 rod, sinking line, wet fly and heavy nymph, for most rivers.

    10 rod, sinking line , wet fly and heavy nymph, for Tongariro.


    this means I can keep these rods fully rigged, but as they're all two piece, broken down, to fit in the car but with the flies on the line still in the guides.


    Arrive at fishing spot, choose rod, re-assemble, fish....

  10. #25
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    My limited experience is that for day-to-day freshwater fishing, the rod and line (backing to tippet) are critical, and that is where you should spend your money and be very picky. The reel is less important and it serves mostly to balance the rod, then to manage the line. Saltwater and huge fish are a different story.

    Also, fast action may be a benefit, but don't discount medium action rods - especially as a beginner... they can be sweet to fish with.

  11. #26
    RV1
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOO View Post
    Just looking at the cost of fly line - more than I expected.
    How long can you expect one to last?
    Yes, cost of fly lines these days are nuts. I own and happily use a couple of Barrio fly lines. Made in the UK. I'm not a good enough fly caster to be able to notice the difference between that and my more expensive line. Works for me.
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  12. #27
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  13. #28
    HOO
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    What is a fast/medium action? And the rod numbers I am guessing higher number for heavier fish?


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  14. #29
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    Some very cheap options out there that work just fine.trademe is your friend. The OLD Olympic 440 reels were great in Thier day and still going strong now.not the lightest,or smallest but by hoki they are reliable. I actually prefer a bit of weight in a reel.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  15. #30
    HOO
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    Went for a fish this morning and couldn’t find my leader so used standard nylon hoping that would work but it stood out like dogs balls on the water so I guess that’s a no go
    Got the spinner out instead and while I was setting it up a young stag came trotting past! Had some interest from some fish and half hooked one on a small black and gold toby.
    Saw some big fish in the side creeks. Definitely an interesting morning out there


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