Oh what I would have done to get a farm with decent running water.... Hard to come by in Pumice country.
I wish!!!
Nope. Our bore water comes from 200m down around here. Expensive hole for sure.
For power generation the big boys drill down 2000-2200m. The old 1960's Wairakei bores were only 200-500m deep.
Have got a wee bit of running water on the farm, but only enough for the ducks
Havent read past this, so someone else might've suggested the same: I've had good results connecting a large, fully-charged battery to the dead one, then a charger onto the good one for a couple of days. Once it accepts charge (and charges up), work it hard ie wind over something in 1stgear. Run it down a bit, then hard-charge again before putting into service. I have 2x 400cca batteries going strong a year after they were deemed scrap. This was advice given to me , specifically for gel-mat batteries, but worked equally well on the lead-acid. Worth a shot
Went to start the mighty Outlaw up, and dead flat battery. 2 volts. Gel. Smart charger didn't recognise it. So did your trick and jumpered it in parallel to a 200ahr I have at full charge. Overnight it rose to 10 volts. Now on trickle charge in the smart charger. Wonderful! Will see how it fares tomorrow at the Kuratau quad bike ride. Go the might ktm RFS 525 motor
So for future reference here's the update.
Took the battery in to the local Auto electric business. They did their thing, charged it to about 70 % they said. Cost me zip.
Brought it home, drained some power like they advised, charged it up to full on me mates new fangled computerized charger. Checked it yesterday (4 days after charging to full) and still full charge.
So there ya go
But what did the auto leccy actually do mate? Did you ask him?
Just...say...the...word
I don`t use deep house batteries, Just put a marine starting one in to my caravan, works good. well I hope so.
Deep cycle are built with thick lead plates to handle deeper discharges / charges, but still behave like lead-acid batteries, ie, self discharge slowly over a period of a few months, and the plates sulphate up when the voltage falls below a certain level. They perform best with a loads of a few amps over a longer period of time. Not intended for starting you car.
As opposed to:
Engine Starting batteries: Lots of thin lead plates, lots of surface area in contact with the acid solution inside, so can deliver high currents for short bursts, not intended to be discharged for more than a few seconds at a time. Great for cranking motors over. Not intended to be heavily discharged. More susceptible to distorting / falling apart inside from heat stress, charging/discharging cycles.
As an aside this also covers the difference between cheap shitty batteries and expensive ones - 'Cold cranking amps' reflect how much lead is in contact with the acid. Makes those lead plates super thin and you have a low cost battery that can deliver the numbers when new, but will distort and fall apart inside sooner.
See at a '4x4' battery thats 3x the price but doesnt deliver3x the amps? Thats because money invested in robust internal construction and thicker plates doesnt mean more CCAs, but it should mean longer life.
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