Thread: Any neat tricks?

learn to use hold over

The range I used to practice on was exactly 12moa and my Monarch was 12 moa per rotation...has some good fucups...

@Dorkus if you have flip up covers you could just write the amount of clicks your zero is up from bottom.

I use 2 zeros on my duplex reticle,the main intersection is bang on for 100m ,the top of the lower vertical bar is on for about 300m,also bang on at 50m for my sub loads which is pretty handy,.no holdover needed.

or try playing around with your mpb range

Pull out the bolt, put rifle on a surface it won't move, bore sight to distant object, look through scope and see alignment of cross hairs, turn to correct zero. Can't be done in a rush with a deer you are trying to shoot but only takes a few minutes. Also after zeroing at the range go through this method so you know where the cross hairs are when rifle is sighted in, they ill be slightly higher than bore sighted object. Hope this helps

Originally Posted by wsm junkie

@Dorkus if you have flip up covers you could just write the amount of clicks your zero is up from bottom.

Yep, or down from the top, since it sounds like you found the top but couldn’t find the bottom?

Originally Posted by wsm junkie

@Dorkus if you have flip up covers you could just write the amount of clicks your zero is up from bottom.

This.

Or put a label under the scope or on the stock.

A small laminated drop chart in my lil stock pouch works for me. And holds a lens cloth, couple rounds and a very small folding knife.

Put the zero stop ball bearing in

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

Put the zero stop ball bearing in

This but most factory caps don't have the ball bearing in the right spot. Well mine isn't. Theres a thread on adding a zero stop to the cds with bb size and drilling a detent. I just remember I only have 28 moa of use able dialing in my cds dial with my rifle.

As for your slow load I don't really see an issue I used a 225 eld m out of my 16.5 inch 308 at similar velocities for quite a while and had no Issues but found a factory ammo that would give very similar accuracy and still hold energy for awhile so stopped loading the 225s

Originally Posted by Dorkus

Never thought it would be necessary on my bush gun... shot steel out to 500 and turkeys at 450+, but this time it cost me my best sika

Ok winding you up a bit but tongue in cheek.

Bush gun why on earth would you even have a dial up scope? bush gun to me means 20-30y shots....I know up north you have all that eaten out non 1080d bush and a 100m bush shot is a possibility but still?...even then a 200-250y zero with a suitable 120-140gr projectile is point and shoot to 300 y easy and bang on 25-40Y for up close and personal.
That said my bush(and open country gun) does have a dial up vx6 but only because it is my only big game rifle......and its two turns down from max up to zero
If I was to have another "bush" gun as well it would probably be another 308 but shorter than the last few with another 2-12 boon and crocket zeroed at 200y

Bugger man. Upgrade to the vx5?

Been there done that with non zero stop scopes made heaps of balls ups, for pin point shot placement on a up hill down hill shots a dialup scope with zero stop is a better guarantee. In saying that though a mate uses a Boone and Crockett on his 7mm-08 out to 500m no problems.

Im not sure I entirely understand what went wrong? Am I right to say the turret was a full turn out from zero before you then went to dial the 7 MOA to make the shot? I have heard of that happening.

Someone mentioned knowing your clicks from top or bottom to ensure your turret is in fact on zero along with being aligned on the 0 MOA marker on the cap which is a good thing to do. Being given grief for dialling on a "bush gun" and "just use holdover" doesn't really have much to do with it.. Simple mistakes happen no matter what method you use when placed under a certain amount of stress. Just learn from it and be better prepared next time. Bugger about the stag! Be bigger next time you catch up with him.