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Thread: Anyone else use Bore Techs 'Eliminator', esp in Stainless firearms?

  1. #16
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've had the brown residue left over from boretech. Its brilliant for removing copper fouling. As the makers say, its not rust.
    I flush the barrel with meths after now, just to flush all the crap out. Now longer see the residue.
    Welcome to Sako club.

  2. #17
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeRei View Post
    Try another great product called Autosol. Steve Blenkarne the gunsmith from years ago rec'd it .Great for thorough cleaning of your bore. We use the kiwi version called kero when want to get job done quickly. Wipe bore dry after a good soak.
    I use Autosol very sparingly and then only to remove the carbon ring I get just fwd of the chamber when I use W760 powder. That black mark you get on the patch for ever and ever when cleaning with Autosol is parent metal from your bore. I would generally use JB's first b4 Autosol.
    I got some KG12 from Aus many several years ago b4 it was available in NZ. I was not that impressed with it. Sure all the tests say it is better than Boretech but it is shite to use - runs off your patches like mad, plus leaves no visible evidence that it is doing its job. When using it I had to get the borescope out and check all of the time. Then one of the plastic bottles sprung a wee leak at its base and drained itself into the bottom of the gun cupboard. Fark all gone. I reverted to Boretech Eleminator and Cu solvent, and use them along side bore foam. Neutralise any of them before going to a different type using either meths or CRC Brakleen and never store the guns with solvent in them despite what the manufacturers say.
    Last edited by zimmer; 04-01-2013 at 05:17 PM.

  3. #18
    DAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nasty Factory Trigger View Post
    Ive since contacted Bore tech and they assure me that the marks are due to the wonderful properties, absorbing moisture... Hmmm.... I quote....


    Thank you for contacting us.

    The brown spots you are seeing should be dark brown in color and have a
    sticky feeling.
    This is the rust preventative in the Eliminator actually doing its job.
    When moister/humidity come in contact with the rust preventative, it
    turns brown. If you do not want to see this, dry patch the area and
    apply an oil to prevent rust and corrosion.

    Please let us know if you have any questions.

    Thank you,

    Customer Service
    Bore Tech, Inc.
    100 Emlen Way, Ste # 108
    Telford, Pa 18969 USA
    P: 215-799-2500 x14
    F: 215-799-2515
    Welcome to Bore Tech Inc
    I got same problem same rifle (a Howa heavy barrel in .308) only 2 or 3 spots inside the action , brand new gun, i freak out but i'm calm now removed those spots with my finger , after this experience i dry the bore and the action before storage and i get thru with a patch of WD40 waiting for a bottle of Eezox .
    First i tough is a kind of reaction with Hoppe's (my cleaning routine involve brake cleaner followed by Hoppe's and at the end Bore tech Eliminator) but now i got the "official" answer, thank you @Nasty Factory Trigger .

    Regards

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nasty Factory Trigger View Post
    Oh dont get me wrong - it works great - just wondering if anyone else has the issue with the brown spots when left during storage etc.. noticed mostly inside receiver where fat fingers cant quite mop it up as patch is pulled thru...
    I use a rod guide so I don't drip it into the action. I'm too clumsy to use the oil port on the guide, just pop an oiled patch on the pointy jag. I only use a pull through in the hills and then just protective oil not powder or copper solvent.

    The worst problem with boretech is its watery and patches jam in the barrel. by the way you need special jags and brushes without copper to get the patches to come clean.

    I dry patch the boretech out then use a preserving oil and dry patch that out too. The thin film of oil saves the bore rusting and I can shoot straight through it.

  5. #20
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    Thanks all for your feedback... i chose the Eliminator as the store person raved about it - seems I chose well - as I later discovered - rightly or wrongly - that Ammonia-based solvents can't be used in stainless steel due to etching...??

  6. #21
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    Anyone else use Bore Techs 'Eliminator', esp in Stainless firearms?

    Quote Originally Posted by Tussock View Post
    I got worried about this, and wanted a something that left zero residue to wash everything out, so I could apply eezox to bare clean metal.

    I use white spirits now. Wonderful stuff. Best carbon remover around. I strip everything, bolts, the works now, and wash them down in white spirits, they dry residue free, then coat in eezox and let it dry. Gets everything very clean, and the dry coat eezox doesnt pick up grit. If its a high wear or high impact spot I put a bit of graphite in with the eezox.

    For the barrel (stainless) I get some carbon out with the white spirits, then do boretech copper till no more copper comes out (200 rounds = 4-5 patches with boretech in my 6.5 trueflight) then I use a patch then brush and white spirits to get rid of the last of the carbon, as well as all the boretech copper.

    Use a rod guide and a bottle over the muzzle and it should all be pretty mess free. I cut the side of a heavy plastic bag and slide it over the but, under the rodguide so I cant splash anything on the stock etc.
    Perfect
    A big fast bullet beats a little fast bullet every time

 

 

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