Thread: Breaking in a new barrel

I'm just about to use my new Howa mini .223 and this is what Howa recommend..... I just figure why not? I've got other rifles to sight in so can do them while the 223 cools.
As an aside; what cleaner with ammonia content do people here recommend? Cheers

"HOWA RIFLE RECOMMENDED BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
Please do not sight-in and or group the rifle during the break-in procedure.

For the first ten shots we recommend using copper jacketed factory ammo. Clean the oil and powder residue out of the barrel before each shot using a commercial bore cleaner with an ammonia content. After firing each cartridge, use a good bore cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove fouling from the barrel using only a soaked patch. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated.

For the first ten rounds, clean and let the barrel cool between each round fired using a patch and rod only.

Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed. In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed due to the manufacturing process.

To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will impede the steel’s ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make the barrel “walk” or “climb” when it heats up in the future. If you take a little time in the beginning and do it right, you will be much more pleased with the performance of your barrel in the future"

Nothing seems to divide opinion more than barrel break in's but the truth is it is something you can not choose not to do or opt out off. When you shot your new gun you are 'Breaking it in' weather you like it or not.

Yeah that's what I thought. I figured it's obviously not going to harm it I'll be sighting in a 7-08 and a 303 so can use them while I wait for the 223 to cool. Today I used some of the Eliminator in the 303 barrel; that was interesting.... But it's now got all flash and sports a 3-9x Redfield.... Anyway; sighting them all in tomorrow hopefully

Good on you continuing an old thread on this common topic.

Original Hoppes #9 had just a little ammonia in it but not enough to really clean much copper out. Perhaps that's what they meant.
The benchmark is boretech eliminator, which does dissolve copper and give a blue colour when there is still some present. It's not ammonia but it is good. It also cleans out carbon pretty well, which is your main fouling. I used hoppes then eliminator after each shot recently on a brand new barrel.
Sweets is a very potent ammonia like gloop and only really needed on a well used 303 that's never been copper cleaned.

There will be other brands that are good too, like the KG solvents, so you'll need to look carefully at the manufacturers' descriptions.

Some barrels can take a few dozen rounds to settle down to minimal fouling and good accuracy but others shoot well after half a dozen rounds. I wouldn't persist with two rounds at a time for very long.

That set of instructions is at the pedantic end of what I've seen but its worth following the manufacturer's instructions, I think. Of course you can sight it in, one shot at a time, just don't over correct on single shots, maybe only make adjustments after 3 (15 minutes). Testing for grouping will of course tempt you to shoot more quickly and hunting with a 223 you won't be able to help yourself. However, 10 shots x 5 minutes is quite doable and you should have it pretty close to required point of impact by then.

Thanks. I ended up buying some eliminator this arvo.

Never shot a barrel in yet on a hunting rifle. My last one, a s/s barrel AR16, I took it easy for first few rounds while sighting in then just used it. It was accurate enough for head/neck shots on goats out to 320 meters or so, over 3000 goats shot with it. More accurate than a lot of bolt actions I've seen. Just shoot it, After-all you're just wearing out the barrel with each round fired.

I sighted in yesterday. I cleaned it with Eliminator between each of the first 10 shots and then between each group of 3 until I'd shot about 20. The 223 is easily shooting into an inch at 100m. It should do better when I get a bit more practice and use a better rest next time....... Already love the Howa mini! I just figured that I'm planning to have the rifle for a long time and it;ll be my most used rifle so an extra hour of dicking around wasn't a biggy

I used the H&F bulk 55 gr to get it on target and used the Buffalo 55gr to sight in. Ir shoots both to the same POI and I tried the Federal 64gr and it shoots a little lower; but it's smack o at 100m if I need to use it,

J.P rifles one is fairly basic, every first 20, 40, 60, rounds you give bore a polish with JB paste. Then every 300 rounds JB. Guess carbon clean in between and copper if necessary.
I've decided to follow this one from now on as they tend to know their stuff and it's not too onerous.

I dont believe any decent barrel these days needs breaking in. One thing I definitely am convinced of in MV migration. Getting a mv change usually after a couple of hundred rounds through the barrel. We tested 6 mrad 338lm and they all did almost the same thing. The mv jumped up about 100 ft at about 300 rounds. Some slightly more.

Brand new walther barrel installed on my 8mm yugo M48, just shot 5 round groups while sighting it in quick clean with ballistol and dry and continue for 20 rounds. Once i got home carbon cleaner and then copper remover. Have fired about 60 rounds in it so far and groups great and will just leave a small amount of copper in the bore, once copper builds up to much i will remove that. I think its more important to use a carbon only remover after shooting and a bit of copper in there is fine. I use the KG1 products from reloaders.

Originally Posted by Kenebene1

I dont believe any decent barrel these days needs breaking in. One thing I definitely am convinced of in MV migration. Getting a mv change usually after a couple of hundred rounds through the barrel. We tested 6 mrad 338lm and they all did almost the same thing. The mv jumped up about 100 ft at about 300 rounds. Some slightly more.

Would have been interesting to note the pressure signs, before and after the 300 rounds- primers etc

Originally Posted by foxhound

Brand new walther barrel installed on my 8mm yugo M48, just shot 5 round groups while sighting it in quick clean with ballistol and dry and continue for 20 rounds. Once i got home carbon cleaner and then copper remover. Have fired about 60 rounds in it so far and groups great and will just leave a small amount of copper in the bore, once copper builds up to much i will remove that. I think its more important to use a carbon only remover after shooting and a bit of copper in there is fine. I use the KG1 products from reloaders.

I was trying to give a young, new Hunter, similar advice to yours, with his new .270 T3, yesterday. He wouldnt have a bar of it, said everything he'd read showed a dry patch was fine...and thats all he used for cleaning-out the oil before firing as well !