Thread: How to zero a rifle for dummies*

Cheers for all the responses so far guys, great info. Thought I better branch out after a few years of banging over deer through a thermal atop a .308 around the glorious WC river flats

Originally Posted by bmait

In regards to zeroing a rifle and practicing to dial out to 500m what sort of rest are you guys using or would recommend?

Is a bipod sufficient or is a dedicated shooting rest needed? I'm just dipping the toes into learning how to dial whilst also getting more accurate at shooting in general

The rifle is a suppressed 7mm RM

Cheers

With yr 7mm RM,you wont have much dial up to 300yds.Just divide yr dialing up into 1/3rds to 400yds and and 1/4s to 500yds.Try to round off to the closes inch.Not sure the drops for yr 7mm Rm.
Heres what I do for my 308.
4inch's=300yds
5inchs =333yds
6inchs =366yds
7inchs =400yds
8inchs =425yds
9inchs =450yds
10nchs=475yds
11nchs=500yds.
Theres a bit of drop between distances,but not enough to miss deer.Iv practice and shot at all the above diatance over the yrs.I know the 308 very well.Im no crack shot but deer don't no the difference.Enjoy yr canon and good hunting.
Yr 7mmRm will close the dial up distance abit better than the 308. I'm using Hornady SSTs 150gr at 2900ft/s.

My version of the pillow on the bonnet for zeroing used to be a pillow on the spare wheel on the bonnet of my Landrover. Much more stable.
GPM.

Ok to make this easy,above calculations give you high shots above zero from zero up to about 6''H at 500yds.Now allow say 3-4'' low and 3-4'' high at a given distance at a deer size target,8''-10'' circle.You cut the dialing up numbers out by half using yr ballistices app.Then you gota to shoot them to prove it at the range.
3'' high at a 100yds takes me to 300yds
5'' high =300yds to 380yds
7'' high =380yds to 450yds
9'' high =450yds to 500yds.
All this on level ground not mountains and hills,i only shoot on the flats now.
Get the idea bmait,now you sort yr canon out.Have good scope rings to hold scope secure.Dont be scared to use a bit of ammo at the range.You might only use one shot out on a hunting trip.

Originally Posted by Moutere

..
It's amazing some of the average zeros that I’ve seen satisfy some of the hunters I have hosted up at the range. I can’t decide if they’re just that rough, or they’re not willing to invest in the ammunition to do it properly.

We see it often. A guy brings his hunting rig out to have a play at just 300yds. "So you've got a good zero for this?" I ask. Yup they go, then proceed to barely clip the outer edge of the big target frame, and sometimes no hit at all. And yet they still bring home animals. I think this just shows how many animals are shot at close range.

As guys have said on here,get yr 100yds or 200yds zero spot on.Walk before you run they reckn.Watch "Panhandle Precision"Cold Bore shots,the Perfect Zero" on utube.

A few moons ago I went down the bipod rabbit hole. No expert but learned a few things about what worked for me.

1. A bipod sucks in the bush. Catches everything
2. A bipod sucks in tall grass, weeds or rushes. Have to take a scythe to clear a view path
3. A bipod sucks on a synthetic stock with a free floated barrel and a flexible fore-end, if the fore-end touches the barrel under the pressure of your hold bearing down on a bipod mount your shot is buggered.
4. A bipod sucks if you need to snap a shot, just cant deploy it so it's a useless encumbrance underneath the front of the rifle.
5. cheap bipods, ex GC, really suck. Bits break and fall off.
6. Bipods that rattle as you move or zing when bumped really suck
7. A bipod is good when you want to put your gun down but keep the metal off the ground, like when you want a midday snooze and yer pack is yer pillow.
8..bipods make you look seriously cool, or something...

PS, bipods add weight....

PPS if you only have a short window to take the shot, but more than a snap shot, setting up on a bipod is still too slow. Best offhand, off a tree trunk or quicker prone resting on dropped pack.

Originally Posted by Jhon

A few moons ago I went down the bipod rabbit hole. No expert but learned a few things about what worked for me.

1. A bipod sucks in the bush. Catches everything
2. A bipod sucks in tall grass, weeds or rushes. Have to take a scythe to clear a view path
3. A bipod sucks on a synthetic stock with a free floated barrel and a flexible fore-end, if the fore-end touches the barrel under the pressure of your hold bearing down on a bipod mount your shot is buggered.
4. A bipod sucks if you need to snap a shot, just cant deploy it so it's a useless encumbrance underneath the front of the rifle.
5. cheap bipods, ex GC, really suck. Bits break and fall off.
6. Bipods that rattle as you move or zing when bumped really suck
7. A bipod is good when you want to put your gun down but keep the metal off the ground, like when you want a midday snooze and yer pack is yer pillow.
8..bipods make you look seriously cool, or something...

PS, bipods add weight....

And that is why most that use them only put them on and carry with it on if they know the area and what to expect, or carry them and put them on if a suitable shot is presented.

Originally Posted by Jhon

A few moons ago I went down the bipod rabbit hole. No expert but learned a few things about what worked for me.

1. A bipod sucks in the bush. Catches everything
2. A bipod sucks in tall grass, weeds or rushes. Have to take a scythe to clear a view path
3. A bipod sucks on a synthetic stock with a free floated barrel and a flexible fore-end, if the fore-end touches the barrel under the pressure of your hold bearing down on a bipod mount your shot is buggered.
4. A bipod sucks if you need to snap a shot, just cant deploy it so it's a useless encumbrance underneath the front of the rifle.
5. cheap bipods, ex GC, really suck. Bits break and fall off.
6. Bipods that rattle as you move or zing when bumped really suck
7. A bipod is good when you want to put your gun down but keep the metal off the ground, like when you want a midday snooze and yer pack is yer pillow.
8..bipods make you look seriously cool, or something...

PS, bipods add weight....

PPS if you only have a short window to take the shot, but more than a snap shot, setting up on a bipod is still too slow. Best offhand, off a tree trunk or quicker prone resting on dropped pack.

Number 7 is my 99% use of a bipod.Yrs ago on long walks id leave it at home most of the time,400grams less weight.

Yep get the idea cheers heaps for that. Rifles got a greystone guns pic rail on top, night force rings and a Zeiss conquest v4 4-16x44. Time to put some ammo through it

There are slings out there that give as stable a hold as a bipod, but have less weight and are quicker and quieter to set up. Need more skill to be able to use them to potential though, and the stock and sling swivel mounts need to be tickety boo. Best thing is they can be used from the seated or standing positions, a bipod is type limited to either prone, or behind something suitably solid...

Originally Posted by grandpamac

My version of the pillow on the bonnet for zeroing used to be a pillow on the spare wheel on the bonnet of my Landrover. Much more stable.
GPM.

That shows your age! Not many Landrovers around now, let alone with spare wheels on their bonnets,

Originally Posted by Jhon

A few moons ago I went down the bipod rabbit hole. No expert but learned a few things about what worked for me.

1. A bipod sucks in the bush. Catches everything
2. A bipod sucks in tall grass, weeds or rushes. Have to take a scythe to clear a view path
3. A bipod sucks on a synthetic stock with a free floated barrel and a flexible fore-end, if the fore-end touches the barrel under the pressure of your hold bearing down on a bipod mount your shot is buggered.
4. A bipod sucks if you need to snap a shot, just cant deploy it so it's a useless encumbrance underneath the front of the rifle.
5. cheap bipods, ex GC, really suck. Bits break and fall off.
6. Bipods that rattle as you move or zing when bumped really suck
7. A bipod is good when you want to put your gun down but keep the metal off the ground, like when you want a midday snooze and yer pack is yer pillow.
8..bipods make you look seriously cool, or something...

PS, bipods add weight....

PPS if you only have a short window to take the shot, but more than a snap shot, setting up on a bipod is still too slow. Best offhand, off a tree trunk or quicker prone resting on dropped pack.

The best "Bipod" I've found is my day pack.

I generally zero off my bipod with solid rear support. I have two socks filled with rice or sand etc. Alternate to the bipod I have a simple caldwell rest for the front of the rifle and I still use the socks for rear support. I generally tend to use caldwell rest when i’m doing load development shooting off a bench or something. Regardless of what exact system you use, the key is being absolutely solid. If you are not steady and wavering off your point of aim during the zero then you need to adjust and get it right and solid. Minimise shooter error as much as possible.

Originally Posted by Baz036

Once one gets to a certain age you discover the benefit of always having a pillow to hand

Crack up. LOL.