Thread: lengths of barrels

Paying someone to do it isnt learning how to do it myself

hacksaw + new blade, take it slow, less heat, look on utube for the larry potterfield / midway vid on re-crowning, you don't need a lathe unless you want a deep crown

piss-easy job to shorten and re-crown

Thanks. Ive seen some of his vids I will look for a cutting one.

Im larry potterfield fom midway usa, and thats the way it is. Goes somehing like that haha.

Originally Posted by gimp

Wear hearing protection

It's ok as above has a suppreser why would anyone not have today ? Some situations but they have never caused me a problem and there is no shooting I do where you couldn't use one so all good

Originally Posted by ebf

hacksaw + new blade, take it slow, less heat, look on utube for the larry potterfield / midway vid on re-crowning, you don't need a lathe unless you want a deep crown

piss-easy job to shorten and re-crown

+1

A bit of neat's foot oil on the blade will make it cut faster, cleaner, cooler and extend the life of the blade heaps. Think the engineers on here would be amazed at the cutting I'll get out of one blade.

From crc in a green can? At school on the power axe not sure if its its name but its what we call it we use coolent water mix.

Originally Posted by gimp

Christ pay someone the $40 to do it

+1
Ask your gunsmith if you can watch him cut it etc?

Nah I prefer to do it my self.

Cool. Keep us informed with pics etc.

Will do. It will be a while from now though.

Toby, pretty much any oil will help when cutting with a hacksaw (or drilling into metal). Engine oil, 3-in-1, whatever.

The less viscous, the better, but no need to go overboard.

You can even use plain water if you have nothing else.

Originally Posted by ebf

Toby, pretty much any oil will help when cutting with a hacksaw (or drilling into metal). Engine oil, 3-in-1, whatever.

The less viscous, the better, but no need to go overboard.

You can even use plain water if you have nothing else.

If I don't have it I can get it very easily.

Originally Posted by ebf

Shorter barrel will only cause faster drop if it is so short that all the powder does not have a chance to burn = less velocity like Gimp said.

If you get full burn, then longer barrel only adds friction, and will also start slowing the projectile. If you have an infinitely long barrel, eventually friction will win

Then twist rate comes into it by stabilizing the projectile inflight. See RIFLE BARREL TWIST RATES for some interesting reading.

Doesn't Brno choke their barrels? Can't complain about their accuracy

Is choking the barrel on a rifle a very good idea? Wouldn't when you get really tight the rifling will be digging deep into the projectile making more friction then needed?

Toby, the common bore "choke" on a quality rimfire is 2.5 to 3 thou constriction linear from the chamber throat to the muzzle, not enough to damage the projectile but enough to maintain a good gas seal and consistent rpm for it's spin stabilized flight.