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Thread: Marlin 30-30 setup

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308mate View Post
    @dannyb how short of a barrel did you go and what model of Marlin?

    Have my 336 Dark 16" zeroed at 100m with a VX6 1-6. It is CDS so I may work up some loads for it for further but really I wouldn't shoot more than 150 - 170m with it I suppose.
    @eamars has worked some loads up I think and may be able to provide some useful input.
    My best 3 shot grouping from Marlin 336 Dark is about 1MOA with Hornady white tail 150gr. The Leverevolution 160gr FTX gave me some shit results and keyholing all the time.

    Currently I'm experimenting best loads for my gun. Here is the recipe:
    * Hornady 150gr round nose projectile
    * CCI #200 large rifle primer
    * 31gr IMR4895
    * A mixture of Hornady, FC, S&B and PPU brasses. Will switch to starline brass later
    dannyb likes this.

  2. #17
    Unapologetic gun slut dannyb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eamars View Post
    My best 3 shot grouping from Marlin 336 Dark is about 1MOA with Hornady white tail 150gr. The Leverevolution 160gr FTX gave me some shit results and keyholing all the time.

    Currently I'm experimenting best loads for my gun. Here is the recipe:
    * Hornady 150gr round nose projectile
    * CCI #200 large rifle primer
    * 31gr IMR4895
    * A mixture of Hornady, FC, S&B and PPU brasses. Will switch to starline brass later
    Previous owner reckons the 140gn FTX Leverrevoloution stuff shoots good out of it but I might give your 150gn load a g.
    How do you determine seating depth and do you crimp ? Sorry if that seems a dumb question but never loaded for a lever before.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyb View Post
    Previous owner reckons the 140gn FTX Leverrevoloution stuff shoots good out of it but I might give your 150gn load a g.
    How do you determine seating depth and do you crimp ? Sorry if that seems a dumb question but never loaded for a lever before.
    Easy way is to get a hornady OAL gauge (curved) with modified case. However I found in my Marlin any seating length longer than the factory load will cause the gun unable to load from mag tube. Single load might not be what you want.

    I don't do crimp as crimping supposed to work with semi auto rifles right?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyb View Post
    I didn't get any of the smithing done but it's 16.5" the mag tube also shortened at the same time so only holds 5 rounds, the trigger also appears to have been fettled.
    I actually decided against buying one till after lock down but this one fell in to my lap for a great price.....it's a 336 stainless wish it had a big loop.
    It's sitting in Hamilton until level 2 anyway so I have plenty of time to think about things.
    @dannyb

    That is a nice looking rifle man, do you know what Gunsmith did the work?

    I am looking at buying a 1895SBL but wouldn't mind getting it threaded.

    It would probably ruin the look of your rifle but I can say that the Midwest Mlok handguards that 55six sometimes has in stock are really useful, especially when if you want to use a bipod, I found the shape of the stock Marlin foregrip hopeless for a Harris type bipod.

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    ebee and Sh00ter like this.

  5. #20
    Unapologetic gun slut dannyb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eamars View Post
    Easy way is to get a hornady OAL gauge (curved) with modified case. However I found in my Marlin any seating length longer than the factory load will cause the gun unable to load from mag tube. Single load might not be what you want.

    I don't do crimp as crimping supposed to work with semi auto rifles right?
    What is the factory length ? Definitely not looking at single loading

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyb View Post
    Previous owner reckons the 140gn FTX Leverrevoloution stuff shoots good out of it but I might give your 150gn load a g.
    How do you determine seating depth and do you crimp ? Sorry if that seems a dumb question but never loaded for a lever before.
    I crimp my ammo as I have had projectiles push deeper into the case from being in the tube mag. And since I crimp , seating depth is determined by the cannelure.
    Micky Duck, ChrisW, dannyb and 1 others like this.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by eamars View Post
    Easy way is to get a hornady OAL gauge (curved) with modified case. However I found in my Marlin any seating length longer than the factory load will cause the gun unable to load from mag tube. Single load might not be what you want.

    I don't do crimp as crimping supposed to work with semi auto rifles right?
    The crimp is to prevent the projectiles from being pushed into the case by the base of the next round when in the mag tube.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    dannyb and mimms2 like this.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cigar View Post
    I crimp my ammo as I have had projectiles push deeper into the case from being in the tube mag. And since I crimp , seating depth is determined by the cannelure.
    Good to know that. I'll need to look into this.
    dannyb likes this.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308mate View Post
    @dannyb

    That is a nice looking rifle man, do you know what Gunsmith did the work?



    Attachment 137279
    No idea @Calikiwi might know ?

  10. #25
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    I used to crimp mine in 30-30, stops projectile getting pushed back in tube mag,don’t use pointed bullets unless they are the flex tip ones,can detonate the round in front in tube mag apparently.
    dannyb and mimms2 like this.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimms2 View Post
    You know you don't have to crimp into the cannelure(s) right?
    I know I don't with the Lee factory crimp die, but I think I do with the Lyman seating die that roll crimps.
    I do a light crimp that doesn't grip the projectile, just enough so that if the projectile moves the case mouth edge can't go past the front of the cannelure.
    rossi.45 likes this.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimms2 View Post
    You know you don't have to crimp into the cannelure(s) right?
    Checked the Lyman instructions, and you do have to crimp into the cannelure if roll crimping (which is what my seating die does). Taper crimping doesn't have to be into the cannelure.

    5. Crimping
    (Two-Die Sets, Three-die Sets, Four-Die Sets, and Taper-Crimp Dies)
    A. Roll-Crimping: Make certain your bullet is seated exactly to the
    bullet’s cannelure or crimping groove.
    dannyb and mimms2 like this.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308mate View Post
    @dannyb

    That is a nice looking rifle man, do you know what Gunsmith did the work?


    Attachment 137279
    Just spoke to @Calikiwi apparently Vern Wilson did the smithing, dunno if he has a reputation for working on levers ?
    308mate likes this.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyb View Post
    Will be on the look out for a leupold scope for it once it arrives if nothing floating round I'll just buy a new vx freedom 1.5-4×20 as I can get them for a good price
    mmm...interesting
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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by csmiffy View Post
    mmm...interesting
    How so ? Do you have one ?

 

 

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