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Thread: Miss fire and stuck projectile.

  1. #16
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Measured firing pin protusion ( by decocking the bolt and measuring how much stuck out...this is correct? ) at 0.057".
    Yep it is a ball powder.
    It fired the last 7 reloads with fed primers perfectly today.
    Micky Duck likes this.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    Measured firing pin protusion ( by decocking the bolt and measuring how much stuck out...this is correct? ) at 0.057".
    Yep it is a ball powder.
    It fired the last 7 reloads with fed primers perfectly today.
    Technically yes but from an engineering point of view no . What you are measuring is , uncocked , the firing pin at rest . What. the firing pin does when it flies forward is to go past the rest point and go until it hits the stop point i.e the point of no further travel .
    So if you have a problem of not firing a round due to not igniting the primer the first port of call should be the round itself i.e headspace/primer seating / primer hardness etc. Then look to the bolt i.e clean it first & then polish the firing pin and internals , and then as a very last resort mess with the firing pin travel/protrusion.As an example someone ,who will remain anonymous, cocked up a calibre conversion to the point the chamber was about 0.010" to long . My solution in the end was to polish the firing pin / bolt internals to decrease lock time and increase firing pin protrusion( which is not straight forward) and now it works

  3. #18
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tankd View Post
    Technically yes but from an engineering point of view no . What you are measuring is , uncocked , the firing pin at rest . What. the firing pin does when it flies forward is to go past the rest point and go until it hits the stop point i.e the point of no further travel .
    So if you have a problem of not firing a round due to not igniting the primer the first port of call should be the round itself i.e headspace/primer seating / primer hardness etc. Then look to the bolt i.e clean it first & then polish the firing pin and internals , and then as a very last resort mess with the firing pin travel/protrusion.As an example someone ,who will remain anonymous, cocked up a calibre conversion to the point the chamber was about 0.010" to long . My solution in the end was to polish the firing pin / bolt internals to decrease lock time and increase firing pin protrusion( which is not straight forward) and now it works
    Yep follow that.
    As per opening post I think it is a headspace problem and or hard primers.
    Rifle has never miss fired any other ammo.
    Fired cases show varying primer strike depth but only in this ammo.
    Will go threw and measure at least all I have loaded with the game king.

    Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  4. #19
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    this may...or may not be relevant but will type it anyway.
    way back when I first got my vastava mini mauser 223 I had issues with the odd misfire...put it down to hard primers on norinco ammo (yellow box fmj,if you ever find it buy all you can get,awesome round) didnt have any issues with reloaded stuff and not all fmj rounds gave issues,a mate put me on to releasing bolt tension when not in use...eg twist end of bolt so spring is relaxed and fireing pin is in forward position...23 years later Ive not had a misfire since...I do it to all my centrefire rifles and it has added bonus of making bolts not fit in rifle untill you retwist them...effectively kiddie and burgler proofing them....
    veitnamcam, Trout, flock and 1 others like this.

 

 

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