Thread: New Tikka .308 zeroing issues

Originally Posted by JohnDuxbury

I used to shoot in the military, I have shot competitively, and I have shot more deer than he has. If you need anymore than that you can fuck off.

His bedding kits turn out a superb job. I don't think he would make them if he wasn't interested in accuracy and consistent repeatable results - just saying

Originally Posted by JohnDuxbury

I used to shoot in the military, I have shot competitively, and I have shot more deer than he has. If you need anymore than that you can fuck off.

And I'm the Wizard of Oz ..... just sayin.

Originally Posted by Cigar

For me, shooting off a bench with front and rear bags, or prone with a bipod, I find I am a lot steadier and more comfortable with my non-trigger hand holding the rear bag and/or base of stock.
I realise I probably have a different point of impact when holding the fore end, but as most of my hunting shots are only 10-25% of my zero distance it doesn't matter much!

I've tried both on bags. No change in POI noticeable on several rifles. But like you Cigar I find I am more steady "hugging myself" and supporting the but than holding the fore end.
Shot a 3.2kg Kimber Hunter (lock and loaded) .308win off a bipod at 200m a few weeks ago at a goat. Same hold, left hand supporting but. POI was perfect. If anything should be jumping around like crazy, that should.

I have read Nathan Foresters info on shooting technique and I don't find it particularly convincing compared to my personal experience and the techniques employed by professional shooters and military (the later have a vested, life critical, interest in accuracy). I find his work on terminal ballistics interesting but am overall put off by his strong over tones throughout towards anything that isn't a heavy "big" calibre without a suppressor, muzzle break, and bipod. I honestly think some rifles may need a fore end hold and they will be convinced by Nathan's technique as it improves their shooting.

I have a .375H&H and I shoot that with a fore end hold, I do this not because I notice a change in POI or accuracy, but I am able to tolerate the recoil better so I trade off a preferred, and more stable for me, hold to mitigate being beaten up by it.

I think the crux of the matter is everyone must shoot in such a way that is best for them and the demands of their calibre and rifle. Anyone saying there is only one way that works won't be right.

I find his approach regarding suppressors is problematic and really annoys me as I think the advent of lightweight and effective suppressors has been one of the best things to change in the last 15 years for hunting firearms. I have not shot an un-suppressed centrefire without hearing protection for years and I do not intend to. I do not miss the ringing afterwards.

As an aside I actually don't think suppressors make a heck of a lot of recoil difference and I think people mistake the noise and concussion difference (even with hearing protection) as a recoil reduction, which in personal perception absolutely is and that's all that matters. I have a 7mmRM with an amazingly effective muzzle brake which is a weird experience, you feel no recoil (honestly, none), as the concussion and pressure hitting you in the face is such an intense visceral experience it overrides any perceived recoil movement. I'm not sure I prefer it over the recoil.

Everybody uses their own skills,if it works and the deer drop.Who cares,not worth getting in a shit fight it.Go hunting.

I agree with you what works works but there is also a need to call out "False Prophets".
As apposed to someone who is not placing himself as a Guru, although some try to.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CTU9ynfDvo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gq5YrcqKcDY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LanQbPvYi6s

The above is someone who is the real deal and will admit to failure , not making up dubious claims i.e somehow .001" of carbon fouling in the chamber is a detriment to accuracy?????. The necks on a case are too thick leading to resistance in the release of a projectile( not enough room apparently)???.

Originally Posted by Trout

Everybody uses their own skills,if it works and the deer drop.Who cares,not worth getting in a shit fight it.Go hunting.

Or fishing. Watching my float at the mo.....

Originally Posted by yeah_na_missed

Hi team. While we're all on the edge of out seats waiting for news on how @JimmyJames got on with his wandering shots, I noted above some people talking about breaking in a barrel. Everyone has their own rituals and practices, which is cool, but I know feck all about lots of things. On my hunt for info on breaking in a new barrel which I was told you must do, I saw this video from an American gent who obviously knows lots about firearms, and his explanation makes a lot of sense. Do yourselves a favour and set the playback speed to x1.5 or x1.75 to save a little time... it's a long'un. He has heaps of very informative and very enjoyable vids on all sorts of topics - some good ones on improving accuracy too... which may be relevant here. Enjoy!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jCIi-SklcP8

Watched some listened to some. Re barrel break in he reckons because copper is softer than steel copper cannot smooth the machining marks in the barrel. But copper at 3000 fps is going to behave quite differently to a piece siting on a work bench. Heck water can cut steel when it moves fast enough !

Hi all,

Sorry for the delay getting back on here. But I have had some success.

After that first time at the range and getting some pointers on what to look out for from the helpful lot here. First set was to give the bore a good clean. Second step I pulled my suppressor to bits and gave it a good clean. While doing this a small bit of crap/swarf dropped out from the thread, which I suspect was a stripped thread from the thread cap that was put on the gun after threading.
Anyway this ment the suppressor threaded on a lot better which thinking back to when I first put it on, it didn't feel that great when I tightened it up.

The next week I went back out to the range. Let off about 12 rounds, waiting 10 mins between rounds and ran a bore snake through a couple of times during this. Got the group down to 3 inches which was alot better, but still not totally satisfied. I also shot off a blanket on the ground which helped steady things and give the bipod a bit of cushion, rather than off the wooden table.

I decided to get in touch with Dan @ Mountain Precision as I figured it would probably save me in the long run going to see someone that could give me so pointers and let me know if I'm doing anything drastically wrong. He set me up for dial up and I had good success shooting steel out to 600m. Which i was stoked with.

Thanks to all for the help and guidance

if it is new then get in touch with Beretta. don't change anything other wise they will not accept warranty.

try Sako ammo too.

Originally Posted by Russian 22.

if it is new then get in touch with Beretta. don't change anything other wise they will not accept warranty.

try Sako ammo too.

Rifles shooting good now. Sorted the issues.

First time at the range I had Fed Blue and Fioochi. Have setup with Sako gamehead now.

Well done JJ,Quality ammo=quality shots.Now deer time.

strange that the fed blue and fiochhi werent as good....or rather were bad.....perhaps 90% of issue wasnt ammunition at all..sounds like suppressor and/or shooter was biggest bit of puzzle.
pleased you got it sorted now...