Thread: Scope levels - do they work?

I remember a long thread about scope levels on the other forum.
Todd Hodnett also describes and stresses them as CRITCAL for longrange shooting in the Magpul Art of the Precision Rifle (or similar title) DVD.

I don't like them and can't see how such a level can work unless you have it in your field of view simultanously as you have your sight picture.
Here is a short film I made on the subject

the one I suckered myself into buying flips out and can be seen when shooting, so not so bad... still probably just unnecessary bling as you say but there you go.

hey norway, watching your vids is very informative.and cool
think i remember you had a ballistics app vid once?? cant find it now which phone app was it ?? are you able to repost the link again ..

They work quite well with the Harris bipod when you can lock the swivel.

Originally Posted by stug

They work quite well with the Harris bipod when you can lock the swivel.

+1

So you can judge well enough without one?
As the range increases being level would be more important?
I guess I find it boosts my confidence to have a quick look
A scope with a bubble level inside the sight picture would be the best. Do US optics make one of these?
On a different subject I see you tensioning your sling when firing prone. Do you find it helps stability?
Thanks for the video.

I wouldn't be without one myself for longrange shooting.

kj

They were not around when I first started out LR shooting apart from the odd one on fullbore app sights.
Never used one and havent had the need too so far.
Cant see why they wouldnt be a useful aid though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. So please forgive my sausage fingers!!!

Trying to fix a training issue with a gadget.

Originally Posted by geezejonesy

think i remember you had a ballistics app vid once?? cant find it now which phone app was it ?? are you able to repost the link again ..

It was this, horrible film!


I use Lapua Ballistics (superbly easy to use, Lapua bullets closely match my Scenar bullets) and Shooter/ Applied Ballistics but these are not reliable when working metric and with minus values.

Originally Posted by stug

They work quite well with the Harris bipod when you can lock the swivel.

How do you control the cant when you lock the swivel?
Can you see the level and sight picture simultaneously?

Scope levels typically have about 1 degree resolution. How do you go about getting better than 0,5 degrees out of it? This is a typical/practical value for a scope level and very easy to beat just trusting your body.

Originally Posted by Nzgunner

On a different subject I see you tensioning your sling when firing prone. Do you find it helps stability?
Thanks for the video.

I shoot of a sling very rarely and don't have a good enough sling technique to teach it. If you're refering to the bipod shooting, the sling occasionally gets in the way when I grip the buttstock and tightens. As it doesn't interfere with the shooting I don't do anything about it.

People buy a scope level and say things like "Whoa I noticed every time before I fired I'd check the level and it'd be way off"

because they have it mounted level to the top of the rifle, not the way they hold the rifle, no-one naturally holds a rifle exactly vertical, with the level you're trying to force yourself to and will be canting away from what the level says is flat... which doesn't matter as long as the reticle is leveled to the way that you hold the rifle, and as long as you have a consistent position

People notice themselves missing, go read on the internet about cant and scope levels, and decide that it must be that, because it's easier to buy a scope level than think "hmm it might be my inconsistent position, lack of natural point of aim, poor trigger control etc" and work on that

That's my theory anyway.

Originally Posted by gimp

People buy a scope level and say things like "Whoa I noticed every time before I fired I'd check the level and it'd be way off"

because they have it mounted level to the top of the rifle, not the way they hold the rifle, no-one naturally holds a rifle exactly vertical, with the level you're trying to force yourself to and will be canting away from what the level says is flat... which doesn't matter as long as the reticle is leveled to the way that you hold the rifle, and as long as you have a consistent position

People notice themselves missing, go read on the internet about cant and scope levels, and decide that it must be that, because it's easier to buy a scope level than think "hmm it might be my inconsistent position, lack of natural point of aim, poor trigger control etc" and work on that

That's my theory anyway.

I reckon that's a pretty good theory.

And cheers Norways for another awesome vid.

I use one... and lock the pod solid, I find most of the long hunting shots I take are not shot from flat ground so it is imposable lay behind the rifle the same each time to load the bipod the same each shot, so I set the level and free recoil shoot with no twist on the rifle, next to no hold to the rifle...so it is only lifted.. lever stays the same if its lifted up and down vertically, That way you can set up for a quick shot....rather than look for a better rest which is often not there... and then the animal is gone, most of what I shoot is not open Teriann so animals often pop out of site never to be seen again. Its not exactly easy to get level when its hard to see through the scope in a precarious position... You have to make sure parralex is right as often the eye alignment is not great.... Super long shots you need to position better but it seams to work the way I do it to 550 odd, I Don't take shots past that without good alignment with the scope