Thread: Scope levels - do they work?

Todd Hodnett raises scope levels to unreal importance in order to make money - he basically says you'll miss if you dont have a scope level.

I detest that.
AND for a skilled shooter "level" is a non-issue. I was simply looked into the discrepancy between the rumoured importance of scope levels and the LR results I've been able to firsthand see from shoters doing any range/angle/position and having absolutely no problem nailing it despite no scope level bubble thingie. What makes this possible is the vestibular sense and training.

By all means, be happy with your level.

Might want to edit my shit out:rolleyes:

I think level is needed for 600m plus stuff in hunting situation, I also use 1 in smallbore rifle shooting, like others said we zero an shoot at set ranges an get sighters at different ranges, at 50m it's unlimited I have to click on couple side ways form 25m to 50m

sent from my Samsung s3 using tapatalk 2

Don't work on any of my shit today Abe!

Originally Posted by Norway

Todd Hodnett raises scope levels to unreal importance in order to make money - he basically says you'll miss if you dont have a scope level.

I detest that.
AND for a skilled shooter "level" is a non-issue. I was simply looked into the discrepancy between the rumoured importance of scope levels and the LR results I've been able to firsthand see from shoters doing any range/angle/position and having absolutely no problem nailing it despite no scope level bubble thingie. What makes this possible is the vestibular sense and training.

By all means, be happy with your level.

Its not something I covert at all, I actually don't like the look of them on a scope and I wont tell anyone to get one but from an individual point it dosn't need to be an opinion based decision, its easy to test measure and calculate.You dont even have to burn any ammo.

Hey guys sorry to bring up an old topic, just trying to set up my first rifle to learn to dial my shots and reading thru old posts .
I'm just not sure about canting my rifle to the scope . I under stand that you must have the scope reticle vertical other wise when you dial elevation you will dial off to the side and if the rifle is canted gravity only affects the bullet vertically so your elevation would be similar. And your scope is parallel to the bore so when you have scope zeroed at 100y you would have to have some windage dialed in, because the bullet isnt exiting directly inline with the relicle. So then when you wind up your elevation for 600y wouldn't you need to change your windage adjustment aswell because you would have gone from having say .25 of an inch windage to 3inchs and then when you are using a inclined base or rings like a 20 Moa base wouldn't your windage be off even more because of a greater bore to scope misalignment. You have now built in for eg if your rifle was canted 45degrees 10moa windage to the left.
Sorry if its a bit confusing.

Thanks for your help.

Welcome rusl

Welcome.
Yep scope levels do work if set up correctly.
The question is do you actually need one,?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Welcome.
Yep scope levels do work if set up correctly.
The question is do you actually need one,?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Last few times we went smashing gongs I never used mine. Folded it out once out of curiousity to find I was already more or less bang on. Cheap enough though.

Thanks guys
Yip not sure if you need a level or not that's really up to the shooter.
The question I pose is if the rifle is canted as Norway suggests is proper form and the scope is levelled in this position so the bore is not vertical with the cross hairs, when I zero my rifle at 100y then dial up to 600y will my windage dope still be correct?
I drew some birds eye views and projected the bullets path with the sight line and it doesn't work out.
Or am I missing something really obvious?
Cheers.

so long as your scope line is in perfect line with the barrel you'll be fine, with a canted base/rings it will throw it out.

If you have a canted base the cross hair should be in line with the barrel.

Well that's my theory, never experimented with the theory but would be easily tested.

Thanks savage1 that's exactly what I was thinking. Just thought I may have missed something.

If your scope is setup with the reticule lined up square to the barrel and you cant the rifle you will see that the horizontal cross hair is not level unless you have a problem with your eyes which is not likely, I've shot F class since it started and never needed a bubble level
out to 1000 yrds it's just something else to get stuffed up. Robert.

400m plus and you are starting to need one...

Here is a little trick to see how good you are without one... Get a 1m high sheet of card board and draw a straight line top to bottom.... mark a point 10cm up from the bottom. Use a spirit level and set the board up at 100m with the line absolutely vertical. Assuming you are zeroed at 100m, put 3 rounds on the bottom mark then adjust the elevation 8 mills up then repeat the 3 rounds while targeting the bottom mark.

I bet you cannot get the same size group, exactly on the line, exactly 80 cm above the first group, if you do not have a cant level...

People who say you dont need a scope level propably dont shoot far enough to realise you need one in my opinion. It is part of your shooting system, on its own if you dont have a decent system then a bubble wont help you

I was reading Bryan Litz’s book last night on this
And based on a 3 degree cant the bullet would move left or right

A 243 vs 308 and yards/inches

At 300 1 and 1.4
At 500 3.1 and 4.4
At 900 12.4 and 18.5

The difference is the trajectory of the 308 vs 243 being flatter