Thread: tikka t3x 300wm cant get to group....

Originally Posted by Larskramer

Hey nate, thanks for that. Factory tikka thread with the factory sako brake. Then was re threaded for supressor and then supressor removed and terminator tt brake installed.

Will remove and check when I slip a different scope on for the interim in testing.

Greetings Larksramer,
One thing to remember when trouble shooting is to only change one thing at a time and then test. If you change several things at once you will never know what the problem was. I have two Tikka T3 Lite rifles which are the most accurate rifles I own. Not sure about gnat testicles at 1000 paces but very good just the same.
Grandpamac.

First thought would be scope/mounts. Somthing would have to be seriously wrong with the barrel for a tikka to be shooting 6inchs plus. A bad load in mine is still sub 2 moa

Originally Posted by Mauser308

Another thing for blind mount holes, make sure the screw isn't bottoming out as it will come up to torque but with an air gap under the screw head. One ill-fitting screw on a mount can allow things to move, and it's in some cases a tiny amount of movement that you struggle to feel by hand that gives you all sorts of pain at the target.

Totally @Mauser308 and it can be a real bugger to fault find on. Like I say I literally shook mine out of frustration held by the optic and felt it move very slightly but kinda weirdly out of synch that was the only thing that let on that it was a fault there. To ensure there wasn't a problem you remove the variables right so we opted for a re thread of the holes slightly larger and new bolts we knew were good thread and depth wise. Bloody hard to figure out tho.. that's for sure..

dti gauge might possibly show this kind of thing up

Ok here is what i would do

Check that the rifle is torqued in the chassis properly

Strip off the scope,rings and rail
Re install the scope rail (check that the rail is tight and the screws arent just tight)
Re install the scope rings
Re install scope (replace if you have one preferrably)
Remove and re install the brake
Buy some Sako factory ammo, like the gamehead pro as its got a good bullet too

Sako ammo is supposed to shoot sub 1 moa in tikkas and sakos

Then test fire it, if it does not shoot then. Then junk the rifle or send to a gunsmith for inspection. You would have propably voided your warranty by threading it for the brake.

Next time you buy a rifle with 1moa guarantee, go shoot it in factory form with whatever ammo the manufacturer recommends and if it does not shoot then take it back

If you are in Hamilton bring it over if you like, ill give it a look over too and see if i see anything.

Ok didnt see that it was factory threaded.

I agree with others your scope is propably rooted, or your mounting system is loose.

Well, you've certtainly got plenty of advice here.

While you're testing a different scope (use one you know and trust from one of your other rifles not the 1-4x), I'd suggest you go back to basics, temporarily replace the whole sight system with something you know is OK. Borrow a set of tikka rings, and try it without the rail.
Then if that fixes the problem, try putting the rail back on with the known good scope and a set of known good Picatinny rings that have been used on another rifle that shoots OK.

I'd use a cheap factory ammo as it will be obvious when you've taken out the component that's giving 6" groups.

You could do all this on a sheet of newspaper at 25m then you won't have to pfaff about adjusting the sights to zero.

Interesting problem,my son inlaw works in auz,brought a Browning x bolt Hell Canyon long Range 300 Win Mag(26in)fancy long name for a sales pitch.As he is from Otago I look after it.I had to set it up and site it in.He wanted me to use Federal 180gr,good cheap ammo and plenty of shops have it.I put Chinese scope on it he brought from china direct.No brand name on the scope.5 x30x50.Bloody great club of a thing.Put a gunworks suppresser on it.20 moa rail.
Think I could get that thing to touch holes at a 100yds.Groups no better than 2 to 4 inchs.Checked scope dialing,over 50 cms was only dialing 9.1 mm per clk instead of 10mm.Letting barrel cool between groups.Scope firmly fixed to rifle.
So I got to chch and brought some Hornady 180gr SSTs.bloody dear shit.Well you think I had a different rifle,after 4 shots sighting in,2 shots touching holes n bull at a 100yds.Deadly accurate rifle.Blu a couple of rabbit heads off at 400yds.
Try different ammo,once you get yr 300 shooting ok.

Yes plenty of advice.

Whenever you are required to go into troubleshooting mode, it is super important that you follow a linear approach and do as @grandpamac says, only change one thing at a time and test. If the result remains constant with the change, then you put the rifle back into exactly the same state as it was before, and repeat with the next change & test.

When I have had this kind of problem I have written down my test procedure in logical steps, starting with simplest check and progressing through in ascending order of complexity.

Doesn’t matter whether it’s an inaccurate rifle or fixing the lawnmower or troubleshooting a problematic engine, a linear path and logic will find the problem eventually.

Because you need to fire the rifle after every change to test it, you will need a well thought out plan with all the tools and alternative accessories, so you can make changes where ever you are doing the shooting. I find it much easier to diagnose something if I can go through the process in one hit. Nothing more frustrating than having to go backwards and forwards to a range for every minor change.

PM sent with a question about the scope you bought secondhand.

@Larskramer any updates?