Thread: tikka t3x 300wm cant get to group....

When we rec a rifle back where the end-user is having trouble meeting the accuracy guarantee - the first two things we do are.

Clean the barrel, and install a known good scope/ring/base setup.

Id place my money on the scope or mount setup. Probably the mount setup. You say a couple screws were loose on the rail - it might not seem like much but id put my money on that being the main problem. Loctite them (243 blue)

Have had this on a rifle and it was the rail and bases at fault.

Even though the screw were tight and torqued the EGW rail was loose (but not obviously) even though the screw were cinched up. In a rifle of that power it may be a bit undetectable until the shock of the shot is released. Was doing my head in too... swapped optics checked ringa all good. the only way I worked it out was I gave it a forceful shake (out of sheer frustration) and I felt something move...

I then tracked it down to a slight gap between the screw/bolt head and the countersunk hole is sat in. In the end we re-threaded the receiver holes to I think new M7 bolts and sweet as!!
hoping this is as easy for you... Ah yeah and was Tikka 7mm rem mag that then we got to sub .5 moa.

First thought would be scope/mounts. Somthing would have to be seriously wrong with the barrel for a tikka to be shooting 6inchs plus. A bad load in mine is still sub 2 moa

dti gauge might possibly show this kind of thing up

Ok here is what i would do

Check that the rifle is torqued in the chassis properly

Strip off the scope,rings and rail
Re install the scope rail (check that the rail is tight and the screws arent just tight)
Re install the scope rings
Re install scope (replace if you have one preferrably)
Remove and re install the brake
Buy some Sako factory ammo, like the gamehead pro as its got a good bullet too

Sako ammo is supposed to shoot sub 1 moa in tikkas and sakos

Then test fire it, if it does not shoot then. Then junk the rifle or send to a gunsmith for inspection. You would have propably voided your warranty by threading it for the brake.

Next time you buy a rifle with 1moa guarantee, go shoot it in factory form with whatever ammo the manufacturer recommends and if it does not shoot then take it back

If you are in Hamilton bring it over if you like, ill give it a look over too and see if i see anything.

Ok didnt see that it was factory threaded.

I agree with others your scope is propably rooted, or your mounting system is loose.

Interesting problem,my son inlaw works in auz,brought a Browning x bolt Hell Canyon long Range 300 Win Mag(26in)fancy long name for a sales pitch.As he is from Otago I look after it.I had to set it up and site it in.He wanted me to use Federal 180gr,good cheap ammo and plenty of shops have it.I put Chinese scope on it he brought from china direct.No brand name on the scope.5 x30x50.Bloody great club of a thing.Put a gunworks suppresser on it.20 moa rail.
Think I could get that thing to touch holes at a 100yds.Groups no better than 2 to 4 inchs.Checked scope dialing,over 50 cms was only dialing 9.1 mm per clk instead of 10mm.Letting barrel cool between groups.Scope firmly fixed to rifle.
So I got to chch and brought some Hornady 180gr SSTs.bloody dear shit.Well you think I had a different rifle,after 4 shots sighting in,2 shots touching holes n bull at a 100yds.Deadly accurate rifle.Blu a couple of rabbit heads off at 400yds.
Try different ammo,once you get yr 300 shooting ok.

Yes plenty of advice.

Whenever you are required to go into troubleshooting mode, it is super important that you follow a linear approach and do as @grandpamac says, only change one thing at a time and test. If the result remains constant with the change, then you put the rifle back into exactly the same state as it was before, and repeat with the next change & test.

When I have had this kind of problem I have written down my test procedure in logical steps, starting with simplest check and progressing through in ascending order of complexity.

Doesn’t matter whether it’s an inaccurate rifle or fixing the lawnmower or troubleshooting a problematic engine, a linear path and logic will find the problem eventually.

Because you need to fire the rifle after every change to test it, you will need a well thought out plan with all the tools and alternative accessories, so you can make changes where ever you are doing the shooting. I find it much easier to diagnose something if I can go through the process in one hit. Nothing more frustrating than having to go backwards and forwards to a range for every minor change.

PM sent with a question about the scope you bought secondhand.

@Larskramer any updates?