Thread: tikka t3x 300wm cant get to group....

I see what your saying, but I'm getting a 6" group, with multiple loads, factory loads etc. As stated, I did remove the scope, and retorque the rail, it seemed to me as though therenwerena few lose ones... but cant confirm. They were definatly undertorqued according to egw specs. Have retorqued the rail, and the tier one scope rings. Will give that another group of 3 and see where they sit.
If that doesnt works I'll take my spare scope down and swap it on just to see how it fires an additional group of 3.

I would just chuck the burris on and fire a group of your factory rounds....if its still 6-8 inches then you can rule out the scope

how does it group for your experienced shooting mentor/buddy is the other way to eliminate the YOU factor....keep at it and let us know how you get on....Im not saying you ARE suffering from dreaded complaint...but its a lot bigger cannon that your other rifles so you MAY be....

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

how does it group for your experienced shooting mentor/buddy is the other way to eliminate the YOU factor....keep at it and let us know how you get on....Im not saying you ARE suffering from dreaded complaint...but its a lot bigger cannon that your other rifles so you MAY be....

I know what you mean, I'll get him to check that next time were out but the 300wm with the terminator tt has stuff all recoil compared to the 7mmRm without any brake or supressor.

Where in Wellington are you. I'm sure i could get it sorted for you. I have a Tikka 300winmag that puts all 5 bullets in one hole with my hand loads. The cheapest factory ammo on the market (Highland) is also well under moa.

If it were me i would take the scope off tonight and replace it, because from what your describing it sounds like its fucked.

Go shoot five rounds through it at a target. If it groups within 2inches at 100 yards, problem solved.

If not, take it off the chassis and put it on a factory tikka stock. Try again.

If not again, have a gunsmith look at the crown, if its been threaded it may have been crowned poorly and that can totally root a rifles accuracy.

If none of that fixes it, then youve got the only Tikka on the planet that isnt a shooter.

If you really cant get it sorted give it to me and ill take it home to wanganui one weekend and have a look at it for you. Im sure i could get it shooting just fine.

That's awesome, thanks mikeb. I really appreciate that. Do you hand load yours ? I'll make up some more loads as per hornady reloading book and put a different scope on and give it a crack.

Just makes me lose all trust in the scope, as it's the only thing second hand on there. And from new, with the factory crown on the rifle, it wasnt grouping well.

Would he said if it were the scope, as I brought it from someone off this forum.

@Larskramer you say that the rifle came with a factory muzzle brake. Was the barrel factory threaded or was it a Gun City upgrade?
Only reason I'm asking is that a mate had a very similar issue with a T3 Varmint purchased new through the same name sake company. Wouldn't group, Wouldn't group, Wouldn't group, $400 of different ammo, 2 trips to the "Smith" that threaded the barrel for said company and was supplied hand loads that would only group 1". I said I would take it home to have a look. I took the suppressor off and had a quick look down the bore. That looks a bit odd I think, so I slipped a cotton bud down and when I pulled it out there was a trail of fluff caught in the bore that had caught on annular rings intersecting the rifling.
1" of the bore had been stuffed by a tool that is inserted into the bore and tightened like a dyna bolt allowing the die to cut the thread without using a lathe.
Barrel was shortened and re-threaded by a well known NZ Gun Smith that is also known for NZTV hunting programs. It now shoots 1/2"!

In short, check out the muzzle/bore for damage when the barrel was threaded

Hey nate, thanks for that. Factory tikka thread with the factory sako brake. Then was re threaded for supressor and then supressor removed and terminator tt brake installed.

Will remove and check when I slip a different scope on for the interim in testing.

Originally Posted by Larskramer

Hey nate, thanks for that. Factory tikka thread with the factory sako brake. Then was re threaded for supressor and then supressor removed and terminator tt brake installed.

Will remove and check when I slip a different scope on for the interim in testing.

Greetings Larksramer,
One thing to remember when trouble shooting is to only change one thing at a time and then test. If you change several things at once you will never know what the problem was. I have two Tikka T3 Lite rifles which are the most accurate rifles I own. Not sure about gnat testicles at 1000 paces but very good just the same.
Grandpamac.

I would check the bore before removing the scope. If the bore looks good then change the scope. If the bore looks dodgy, take it to a Gun Smith with a good reputation.

Alan carr has a good rep world wide, but I will 100% check the crown and bore before removing thanks fireflite

Yeah yeah, I know. Blame the finger. Finger seems fine mate.

+1 scope rooted or something loose with the scope mount

I'm not familiar with that type of scope, but is the front ocular bell nice and tight? Doesn't have locking ring that isn't tight and is moving under recoil? Had that issue on a little .223.

Where in Welly are you ? I am happy to have a look at it, confirm torque settings etc.

Have you had someone else shoot the rifle ?