Thread: tikka t3x 300wm cant get to group....

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

how does it group for your experienced shooting mentor/buddy is the other way to eliminate the YOU factor....keep at it and let us know how you get on....Im not saying you ARE suffering from dreaded complaint...but its a lot bigger cannon that your other rifles so you MAY be....

I know what you mean, I'll get him to check that next time were out but the 300wm with the terminator tt has stuff all recoil compared to the 7mmRm without any brake or supressor.

Where in Wellington are you. I'm sure i could get it sorted for you. I have a Tikka 300winmag that puts all 5 bullets in one hole with my hand loads. The cheapest factory ammo on the market (Highland) is also well under moa.

If it were me i would take the scope off tonight and replace it, because from what your describing it sounds like its fucked.

Go shoot five rounds through it at a target. If it groups within 2inches at 100 yards, problem solved.

If not, take it off the chassis and put it on a factory tikka stock. Try again.

If not again, have a gunsmith look at the crown, if its been threaded it may have been crowned poorly and that can totally root a rifles accuracy.

If none of that fixes it, then youve got the only Tikka on the planet that isnt a shooter.

If you really cant get it sorted give it to me and ill take it home to wanganui one weekend and have a look at it for you. Im sure i could get it shooting just fine.

That's awesome, thanks mikeb. I really appreciate that. Do you hand load yours ? I'll make up some more loads as per hornady reloading book and put a different scope on and give it a crack.

Just makes me lose all trust in the scope, as it's the only thing second hand on there. And from new, with the factory crown on the rifle, it wasnt grouping well.

Would he said if it were the scope, as I brought it from someone off this forum.

@Larskramer you say that the rifle came with a factory muzzle brake. Was the barrel factory threaded or was it a Gun City upgrade?
Only reason I'm asking is that a mate had a very similar issue with a T3 Varmint purchased new through the same name sake company. Wouldn't group, Wouldn't group, Wouldn't group, $400 of different ammo, 2 trips to the "Smith" that threaded the barrel for said company and was supplied hand loads that would only group 1". I said I would take it home to have a look. I took the suppressor off and had a quick look down the bore. That looks a bit odd I think, so I slipped a cotton bud down and when I pulled it out there was a trail of fluff caught in the bore that had caught on annular rings intersecting the rifling.
1" of the bore had been stuffed by a tool that is inserted into the bore and tightened like a dyna bolt allowing the die to cut the thread without using a lathe.
Barrel was shortened and re-threaded by a well known NZ Gun Smith that is also known for NZTV hunting programs. It now shoots 1/2"!

In short, check out the muzzle/bore for damage when the barrel was threaded

Hey nate, thanks for that. Factory tikka thread with the factory sako brake. Then was re threaded for supressor and then supressor removed and terminator tt brake installed.

Will remove and check when I slip a different scope on for the interim in testing.

I would check the bore before removing the scope. If the bore looks good then change the scope. If the bore looks dodgy, take it to a Gun Smith with a good reputation.

Alan carr has a good rep world wide, but I will 100% check the crown and bore before removing thanks fireflite

Yeah yeah, I know. Blame the finger. Finger seems fine mate.

Originally Posted by Larskramer

It's not as easy as swapping a dif scope on, as I dont even have a factory load that this fires nicely? I have the spare Burris scope, but that's about it. Itll be good for doing a test I'm sure. But ammo wise.... no idea....

Any reputable factory ammo should be giving you close to MOA out of a basically new rifle. Get that scope changed.

A couple of other things to check.
1. the front screw for the rail isn't protruding into the bolt lug area of the action.check the others as well, but normally only the front one will give grief
2. the front king screw isn't protruding into the bolt lug area of the action

have you shot it without a brake or suppressor?

+1 scope rooted or something loose with the scope mount

I'm not familiar with that type of scope, but is the front ocular bell nice and tight? Doesn't have locking ring that isn't tight and is moving under recoil? Had that issue on a little .223.

Where in Welly are you ? I am happy to have a look at it, confirm torque settings etc.

Have you had someone else shoot the rifle ?

When we rec a rifle back where the end-user is having trouble meeting the accuracy guarantee - the first two things we do are.

Clean the barrel, and install a known good scope/ring/base setup.

Id place my money on the scope or mount setup. Probably the mount setup. You say a couple screws were loose on the rail - it might not seem like much but id put my money on that being the main problem. Loctite them (243 blue)

Have had this on a rifle and it was the rail and bases at fault.

Even though the screw were tight and torqued the EGW rail was loose (but not obviously) even though the screw were cinched up. In a rifle of that power it may be a bit undetectable until the shock of the shot is released. Was doing my head in too... swapped optics checked ringa all good. the only way I worked it out was I gave it a forceful shake (out of sheer frustration) and I felt something move...

I then tracked it down to a slight gap between the screw/bolt head and the countersunk hole is sat in. In the end we re-threaded the receiver holes to I think new M7 bolts and sweet as!!
hoping this is as easy for you... Ah yeah and was Tikka 7mm rem mag that then we got to sub .5 moa.