Better photos. Many super zooms weigh as much as an DSLR anyway.
If you have no interest in the extra features of a DSLR and want something as light as possible I would get a Canon PowerShot G7 X or similar.
Better photos. Many super zooms weigh as much as an DSLR anyway.
If you have no interest in the extra features of a DSLR and want something as light as possible I would get a Canon PowerShot G7 X or similar.
I shoot with a Nikon D810 with around $10k of lenses, a Nikon D5500 and Fuji X100T. Why? You cannot realistically get one camera to do everything. Like P38 said in the early post, everything is a compromise.
One limiting factor that hasn't been raised on long distance photography is atmospheric conditions. A long zoom lens will accentuate any haze in the air causing loss of image quality. The other issue is camera stability. Long lenses demand a tripod for sharp results.
Don't be fooled by zoom length. The real world difference between a 300mm and a 500mm lens is debatable. Be careful where anything beyond 500mm is quoted on a still camera as they often go into 'digital zooming' with is simply image cropping at the expense of image quality. A 300mm lens on a good quality sensor will beat a 500mm lens any day of the week unless you want to pay $3k-$15K for the lens. Therefore, buy a good quality 300mm zoom lens at a fraction of the price, and invest in a camera with a really good sensor and crop (zoom) your finished image in your computer to suit your needs.
Being a hunter as well as a keen photographer I carry the Fuji X100T for bush hunting because its small, and has an outstanding low light capability (DX size sensor and fast lens), but it is a fixed focal 24mm lens so no telephoto shots - compromise.
If I am hunting in the open areas, I'll take the D5500 with two lenses, one wide angle and one telephoto. Best of both worlds but its heavier and bulkier - compromise.
I leave the D810 in the truck or at home since it weighs about 20Kg with its full kit. But when it comes to shooting the kids sports, I throw the 200-500 zoom on and its king of the hill! - compromise.
My recommendation to you is:
Buy a Nikon D5500 kit. You can go camera body and 18-140 Nikon D5500 Kit (18-140mm) Black - Supero, or camera body and 18-55 Nikon D5500 Kit (18-55mm VR II) Black - Supero, and then get a 70-300 or 55-300 zoom. If you have the cash to blow, get the 18-300 zoom but the compromise is size and weight Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-300mm F/3.5-6.3G ED VR - Supero.
The D5500 is just new out. It has a state of the art DX sensor that has proven to give exceptional image quality in all light conditions (based on personal experience with two cameras and a number of family members using the camera). It will easily go ISO6400 without loss of image quality, and with the above vibration stabilized lenses (VR) it makes hand holding in low light far easier.
The image size (and more importantly the image quality) gives good latitude for cropping in the computer, negating your need for mega zooms.
The D5500 is a very small frame camera, and the frame is carbon fiber making it very light - an important consideration if you are carrying it while hunting. The 18-55 kit lens is a stunner and keeps the camera as compact as possible for bush hunting. I recommend this lens. I haven't personally used the 18-140 but it is supposed to be a excellent lens. I have been using my 28-300 on the D5500 with stunning results, but it is more expensive than any of the lenses listed above.
If you are used to using a small sensor consumer based camera, you will be all smiles with the D5500, and the price difference for the extra quality is well worth the spend.
Thanks for that info
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Brads, I love clear sharp well composed photos and over the last decade or so I have been slowly upgrading my camera gear and, more importantly, I have been taking more and more photos.
If you want clear, sharp images then your best bet is a DLSR. If you want clear sharp images in lower light conditions then your best bet is definitely a DSLR! The DSLRs come with a few disadvantages though namely weight, and limited zoom range on most lenses - meaning if you want to zoom in on the moon after taking and landscape photo you will likely have to swap lenses - meaning you are carrying more than one lens... equals more weight. Because they are heavier you will also likely need a bigger heavier tripod to support them well... equals more weight to be carried.
I like the super zoom cameras (I have a Canon SX60HS) and they take pretty good photos - more so if you take photos in RAW format and then post process them through Lightroom on the computer. Unfortunately the super zoom cameras suffer in low light conditions resulting in grainy and sometimes unclear images. They simply don't have the sensor size to take good photos in low light. Certainly the smaller point and shoot camera are better with a small tripod, a remote shutter or the timer, and using a low ISO setting (no more than about ISO300).
The other point I wanted to make is image post processing through a program on the computer such as Lightroom. I use lightroom for just about all my images and it goes a long way to improving my photos - noted you still have to take a good photo to start with (e.g. post processing cannot make a badly focused image sharp...).
I think what you want in a camera system is:
Good image quality in most light conditions.
Reasonably simple to use.
Reasonably lightweight and rugged.
Good for mostly landscape and portrait photos.
Still want to be able to zoom in on animals at distance (400-500m)
You already have a Swarovski spotter and use that with your iphone.
With all this in mind I think you will be best served with a 4/3 type camera. If I were you, I would look at the Canon EOS M3, with the EF Lens mount adaptor. Get a good quality multipurpose lens so you only very rarely have to change lenses or carry more than one lens (like the EF 18-135mm, or a 24-105mmL although it isn't as good for landscapes). For animal photography I would get a Canon EF lens adaptor for your Swarovski spotter to mount the camera directly to it. You will also need a good solid tripod (I use a smaller gitzo) and a good solid tripod head (I use a manfrotto ball head). The tripod is also a pretty good shooting rest in long grass etc. Lastly I recommend you get a image processing program on your computer (I use and highly recommend lightroom).
To be clear I have no idea what this sort of system will cost you... And do some research as I mainly recommend the Canon as you can get a EF lens mount adaptor for your spotter.
My last point is that good photography doesn't just happen. It is a practiced and perishable skill i.e. you will get better results by getting out there and taking photos! I think it is a really great service you could offer to clients though. If they don't have a good camera you can get some shots of their hunt yourself or if they do have a good camera you can get some photos of them with it - I have met more than a few tour guides that couldn't take a decent photo...
A couple of relatively simple camera tips will get you a long way even with a point and shoot camera (keep a low as possible ISO, keep as fast a shutter speed as you can while keeping the depth of focus you want - always go out of your way to ensure the camera is as steady as you can possible make it).
If I had the time I would come over your way and you can have a go with my cameras. I will be over your way in May for the Ruahine Biathlon - I might be able to add a day or two to that trip if that suits?
You cannot miss fast enough!
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GPREventsNZ
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/sgil045
I have the smaller 42x zoom version of this camera and I rate the quality. Awesome for taking photo's of deer out to 500y and at only $280 how could you go wrong
I see some bridge cameras state 'RAW' capability, is there a noticeable between cameras with/without?
Just depress the button halfway and they autofocus then depress fully
RAW images instead of jpeg images. jpegs are processed from RAW images by your camera. This means the camera applies an amount of noise reduction, sharpening, colour correction, etc. based on its standard settings (or based on the in camera settings for a particular scene / mode you have chosen). If you take RAW images you use a post processing program (like adobe lightroom or photoshop) to apply any corrections or adjustments based on the RAW camera image before you export it as a jpeg to get it printed. Typically you can't just go into Harvey Norman and get the machine to print RAW images.
If you are doing post processing I find the RAW image much, much nicer to deal with and so for me personally I wouldn't bother with a camera without RAW capability unless it had a specific purpose (say an underwater camera or a video camera).
If you aren't doing any post processing on the computer then you will never need RAW capability.
You cannot miss fast enough!
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GPREventsNZ
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/sgil045
I have the Canon SX 50. Really like it. Good zoom range and pretty good photos. Easy to use and not too heavy. Remember that when taking photos at long range the mirage/distortion caused the air can have a large effect on image quality rather than poor lenses.
Here are some links to videos taken with this camera
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAnOzgC7U5A Deer was 273 yds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1oHXSzNFXY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdXE69ukTsE Deer at the 2min mark are about 300yds, sun is setting behind the ridge which is why the quality isn't great. At the 5min mark is right on dusk.
They aren't the best in low light, like right on dusk.
Remember that for longrange video/photo you need a really good tripod. Mine is not that great as can be seen when trying to keep the deer in the centre the tripod head when tightening up can move a bit.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Especially @Gillie
I looked at the DSLR cameras, what I needed was as heavy and as expensive as a blaser.
So went Cannon SX60HS for a sharp price.
Took this tonight just before 8pm at 1450 yards.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's the way fella .... Beauty is in the outcome - not in the shite you've got tricked into buying there along the way - for 100% of your guiding needs this is more than enough. concentrate on framing and composition and you wont go wrong - that zoom is fine.... and guess what - if it gets water damaged you won't have a comp-lete meltdown....
I got out my old guiding camera today for video and its Panasonic 3CCD color and sharpness for being 8+ years old is still every thing I'lll need today - just a little more fiddly uploading to the HDD than the newest ones and a bit more heavier and bigger but use more storage than this too so I won both ways...
Also my mate who's a professional photographer and designer just updated his cover shot and it was shot by his partner on a i-phone 6 - and to 99.9% of his viewers no one would of guessed and she caught the moment..
Good on you fella
Good on yah BRADS. I'm sure you will enjoy the SX60. now just go out a take a heap of photos, try out the various options on the camera and work out what you like.
Composition is a big portion of photography, so is lighting - get those two sorted with a steady camera and an in focus image and you'll take awesome photos no matter the camera!
You cannot miss fast enough!
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GPREventsNZ
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/sgil045
Bookmarks