Took this one out for its first few shots down the tube and it didn't disappoint.
Took this one out for its first few shots down the tube and it didn't disappoint.
Where do I place my order
that woodwork is next level..you have excelled yourself AGAIN.
75/15/10 black powder matters
Hey mate,
I've got a project Delisle that I'm slowly chipping away at, but was wondering if you would be able to give some advice? Specifically on barrel and bolt.
What is the length for the bolt? And what was your method for shortening it? Currently I am looking at cutting a section out and rewelding the end (with the threads) back on to avoid needing to recut the threads.
For the barrel, do you make them yourself or do you get them made for you?
Cheers.
Hey Wingman, these look amazing, great workmanship! Can you please message me with a price on one of these please?
Thanks
I use Lothar Walther and Vulcan s/s 1-16" barrel blanks.
I have made a set of jigs for cutting, turning and threading the bolt and counterboring the action for the barrel.
The bolt needs to be annealed to a softer machinable state to bore out for the shorter striker pin and re thread. I have made a tap to cut the special enfield thead pitch and dia threads needed. The bolt head then gets re timed, bolt face bored for the .45acp head size and then all rehardened and then tempered.
Bolt length and barrel set back distance is critical to get it to feed from the mag correctly.
The machining of the barrel is equally challenging and important for function. Making the spring steel extractor and ejector will test your patence for sure.
I certainly would never weld a bolt! You would have to weld very close to the locking lugs which opens another can of worms. You still wouldn't be able to drill the counter bore through it for the firing pin travel either as they are too hard. The firing pin also needs to be shortend and rethreaded but you can rethread that to 1/4"x28tpi and use a later No4 mk1 cocking piece as they use UN threads not the old enfield threads of the No1s.
They are a very challenging and labour intensive build with many quirks in the fine details.
That's about as far as my advice extends on this subject sorry.
Thanks mate,
It can be quite the challenge to match up colour and grain of the butt and mid wood which are often from different donor rifles and then even more so going through all of my walnut panks and slabs to find a bit to match for the newly made fore wood.
I know the originals made in ww2 would have been just thrown together of what ever scrap parts they had on hand but I like to offer a higher grade finish as an option.
Whether the customer wants a new look, an old patina war torn look or anything in between I try to match it up as best as I can. Some are more challenging than others..
Hi Wingman your workman ship is indeed at another level . Really too nice to take out and scratch the paint or ding the wood
I liked to worked over folding stock one the best in your line ,now that one i would like to have one day and use ..
Thanks for your many posts .
Hi Wingman, thanks for your reply. I'm trying to re-instate my old login/profile but have so far been unsuccessful, so started again. (because I know a few guys on here from Auckland Service Rifle. I did flick you an email a couple of days ago though. It would be great to get an idea on your prices. Cheers
I haven't recieved any email in this regard sorry
Ok Wingman, can I please grab your email in case I got it wrong? Many thanks.
now I know its not kosher...but doing the same in say a .45LC would be less work being rimmed would it not???
75/15/10 black powder matters
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