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Thread: BSA Hunter help required.

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
    One thing to consider, you don't want the new spring to become coil bound when the cocking piece is in full rearward position. You could measure the donor spring when coil bound on the CF2 firing pin and compare to the length of available space on the Hunter bolt. I'm sure you have thought of this....just mentioning
    No hadn't thought of that. I was going to compress the CF2 spring onto the Hunter striker too see how much it could take, but that is not ideal as I could end up with an over compressed spring and slogging the firing pin attachment.
    Bring on the suggestions - I dont want to balls it up
    Micky Duck likes this.

  2. #47
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    One thing to note.

    If two springs are of the same wire and coil diameter and the same lenght then the one with the least coils is the stiffest spring.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  3. #48
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    One thing to note.

    If two springs are of the same wire and coil diameter and the same lenght then the one with the least coils is the stiffest spring.
    Something to do with the pitch of the wind, isn't it Cam?

  4. #49
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
    Something to do with the pitch of the wind, isn't it Cam?
    Yes.
    If you think of two springs one with say 5 turns and one with ten then the one with 5 must twist each coil twice as much to compress the same amount....hence it is stiffer.

    Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
    tetawa, Micky Duck and Mathias like this.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  5. #50
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    Both springs appear to be the same pitch / wind. They are the same wire diameter and same centre diameter. The difference being that the Hunter spring is sad looking and shorter for the same number of turns.
    I have just compared both springs following the suggestion from Mathias above. With the CF2 spring reinstalled on it's striker rod, the firing pin attached and a panel pin through both the bolt stripping hole in the shroud and cocking piece, this has the spring in the compressed cocked position. Compressed to this point 36 winds of CF2 spring would fit nicely on the Hunter striker rod without a gap or being too tight.
    This must be the answer me thinks ??
    veitnamcam, Micky Duck and Mathias like this.

  6. #51
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    Earlier this eve I cut the CF2 spring and put the Hunter back together using it. Greatly improved half open bolt position and heavier lift but not as good as a CF2. It would be better if some worthy at some time had not filed the flat on the 'closing' side of the cocking piece to change it's angle and filed a new flat on the opening side instead of the radius it is supposed to have. Result being a stiffer bolt lift and less positive half open bolt.

    Looking closely at the trigger to find the problems, I think it is nearly all down to pawl engagement. The surfaces are beaten up and need truing. Even without the cocked bolt spring pressure and just using small screwdrivers to hold the pawl forward the let-off is rubbish. I will give that a go with some 'wet and dry' taped to an ice-block stick unless someone can explain to me the proper way to do it without disassembling the trigger .
    What I am really struggling with is getting the bolt to release easily. Following the correct procedure, the sear does not drop with the cocked bolt withdrawn part way back and if pushed down manually is very hard to keep there ????
    Micky Duck likes this.

  7. #52
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    Update:
    Trigger fixed. I removed the trigger assembly very easily with only the spring on the ejector bar to watch and not loose.
    Polished the Pawl and Bar and reset the engagement angles on the worn and rounded edges so that it would break crisply. There is a little scallop in the side of the trigger unit that gives access for the points file I used wrapped with 600 then 1200 wet and dry.
    The bolt release was not working, the ejector bar had a fine burr along its length from when it was stamped out. after I dressed the edge that runs against the sear the sear didn't bind anymore and will drop as it is supposed to. The bolt will now remove three times out of four attempts
    So the rifle now functions fine with a passable hunting trigger - about the same as an adjusted Tikka T3 trigger.
    I have washed the trigger and bolt in thinners to remove any grit, and re-lubed

    Thankyou everyone for the photos and input and for just reading and checking what I have done is correct. If I didn't have problems with posting photos here I would have put some up. Will post some when shes bedded and scoped
    Tuidog, Dreamer, bunji and 5 others like this.

 

 

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