Thread: Carding wheel for rust blue process

Any local suppliers for a soft carding wheel for removing build up after the rust blue process? About to give it a go.

Originally Posted by FRST

Any local suppliers for a soft carding wheel for removing build up after the rust blue process? About to give it a go.

Complete and utter waste of time and money

Just do it all by hand with 0000 steel wool
The only carding brush you need is a very fine stainless steel one about the size of a tooth brush to get into the details where the steel wool won't reach

There is no place at all in the process for a carding wheel

What your looking for is https://www.toolfactory.co.nz/produc...ver-whew-15040

There are a couple of jeweler supply places that stock them in NZ.

I have used them for carding rust blue and they work well, however I agree with Akaroa1 that they are not necessary.

Want to run them about 1000rpm from memory

Yeah, I just use fine stainless steel wool soaked in water. An old toothbrush is fine for any parts you cannot reach with the wool.

Fine Scotchbrite works also.

I think carding wheels were used because Scotchbrite hadn't been invented yet.

I have always used steel wool, but if you were to use a carding wheel then it must be from the finest gauge steel or stainless steel wire and run at a slow to moderate speed with only light pressure. Heavy wire, high speed or heavy pressure will rip it back to bare metal in seconds, and also scour the surface. Brass wheels will deposit a fine layer of brass and halt the subsequent recoating process. Clean cotton gloves and steel wool work well!

Does this also apply for when removing rust?
The comment I was told was to be consistent with the brush direction, when using the carding wheel.
I’m wondering how the finish would look, post 0000 steel wool.

Any thoughts?

The finish looks like this with OOOO
Do not use a machine tool brush



The barrel and the band are new 4140

Carding is the easiest job a gunsmith will ever do
Don't complicate it
There is no hack you just do it by hand and see and feel everything

Impressive!

Hmmm. Dealing with corrosion will take ages by hand.
I’ll give it a go.

Thank you.

Interesting

I have been thinking of doing rust bluing. Starting on my old 512 Remington .22. I also have an old Mannlicher Schoenauer that I want to try rust bluing later.

I prepared the solution of Nitric acid & hydrochloric acid dissolving degreased steel wool in it. I've been watching Youtube for years.

The rifle has a lot of surface rust and pits that I have struggled to clean off. Despite all efforts to sue 240 grit paper, steel wool, carding wheel etc. I have still not managed to get rid of the pit marks.

I would appreciate any PMs and an opportunity to correspond with people who can help me through this.

The rifle has been sitting stripped and on the bench for 10+ years. LOL

@Nakihunter I got your p.m. will respond and give you my email tomorrow
Working in the bush today

The only way to remove a rust pit is to take the surrounding surface down to the same level, or else to try and fair it out so the low spot is less visible. Depending on how deep it is, that could mean losing engraving or altering barrel diameters etc.
You may end up making a decision to cut the small marks out and accept that the deep stuff is there to stay. Treat it as part of the roadmap of the guns life and do the best that can be done for the rest of it.

Do be careful with keeping sharp edges sharp, flat surfaces flat etc. It is easy to take metal away, not so much to put it back again.

Some helpful stuff
https://www.firearmbluing.com.au/art...t-blue-recipe/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4QOcRTZv2Q&t=903s

Cleanliness is essential, and don't go putting too much solution on the steel at a time. Using the steamer speed things up, so just take as much time as it takes. A box of cheap vinyl gloves are handy.

Interesting that site mentions using salt water. I tried that a few years ago. Was patchy, he he says it works perhaps just more applications. Think I will revisit this when I get a chance.

Interesting that site mentions using salt water. I tried that a few years ago. Was patchy, he he says it works perhaps just more applications. Think I will revisit this when I get a chance.

"Further advice to people is, if they are only going to do a single firearm or two, just use salt water. It is cheap, non toxic and does the job well. If you are going to be doing a lot of firearms, then yes, making your own solution is a good option."